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07-10-2011, 08:45 PM
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Firefighters, Safe experts, Fireproofing a safe?
I am getting a new safe this week. My old safe is sufficient but it is not fireproof (it is a safe with mechanical dial lock not a gun cabinet )
From what the LockSmith told me and my own research the fireproofing is drywall, 5/8" type X.
So, I want to fireproof my old safe. My question is about the gray indoor outdoor type carpet in the safe and the paper facing on the drywall. Wouldn't this just get hot and reach a flash point and burn??
I have also read that a safe stuffed in a closet and surrounded by drywall is pretty fireproof (for a short time) to begin with.?? I live in a area with very rapid response times.
So other than the door can I just drywall the exterior of the old safe (which would be easier) and than glue drywall to the interior of the door??
Thanks
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07-10-2011, 09:30 PM
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Not sure what "X" is but most all of the safes I'm familiar with, the lining is basically what is called " Green Board" or cement board used in bathrooms for tub and shower installations....available at the Home Depot or Lowe's.. some of the more expensive safes use a " "Poured" Aggregate type lining between the inner and outer walls..
5/8" x 8' x 4' Moisture-Resistant Type X Drywall (Google is my friend) - Enhanced protection against mold and mildew
- Easy to install and finish
- Fire and moisture resistant
- Accepts a variety of decorative treatments
As Mr. Jinks would say....
Hope this helps..
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Last edited by ditrina; 07-10-2011 at 09:37 PM.
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07-10-2011, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rule3
I am getting a new safe this week. My old safe is sufficient but it is not fireproof (it is a safe with mechanical dial lock not a gun cabinet )
From what the LockSmith told me and my own research the fireproofing is drywall, 5/8" type X.
So, I want to fireproof my old safe. My question is about the gray indoor outdoor type carpet in the safe and the paper facing on the drywall. Wouldn't this just get hot and reach a flash point and burn??
I have also read that a safe stuffed in a closet and surrounded by drywall is pretty fireproof (for a short time) to begin with.?? I live in a area with very rapid response times.
So other than the door can I just drywall the exterior of the old safe (which would be easier) and than glue drywall to the interior of the door??
Thanks
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Has your OCD been cured?
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07-10-2011, 10:38 PM
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Just watch what you use for glue most are flammable
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07-10-2011, 11:12 PM
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Being a locksmith myself, I've seen many guns that went through fires while in a gunsafe. Sometimes even the best safes cannot completely protect all the guns. However, the guns that were damaged were able to be repaired or refinished provided they were worth the expense.
Another thing to think about is the fire seal around the door opening. This is a critical area that people tend to forget. Check with your local wood stove dealer and ask about the fiberglass seal that's applied to the door. These seals will withstand 2000 degrees. This all depends on whether or not your safe door will close and lock with the seal applied to it.
Also, store your guns in gun socks. The kind that are silicone treated. I have also seen the aftermath of a fire were the guns in gun socks survived unscathed where others not in gun socks did not.
Another BIG reason for gun socks is if your safe gets drenched with water. Gun safes are NOT water proof. And since you may not be able to get to your safe until after the fire dept say's so, your guns could sit in a very humid environment for several days or more. I have also seen this first hand.
And remember, computer media, film, negatives etc..... Will not survive a fire in a gun safe.
To keep the temperature down in the area of your safe, don't store flammble materials in the vicinity. Gas, paint,gun powder etc.....
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07-10-2011, 11:42 PM
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Question#1-If the carpet inside gets hot enough to burn you have a heck of a fire! firearm damage is assured .
#2-With a normal municipal response time a closet can and will do a pretty good job of keeping heat out. Smoke and water will get in normally, but heat is is slowed down greatly. The door is the weak spot for sure,hollow core interior doors burn really well .A fire rated or drywall lined door will make a huge difference.
#3-Water based duct insulation adhesive will bond drywall well . It meets or exceeds NFPA flammability requirements. Check online or with your local HVAC supply store.
Besides being itchy, fiberglass ductboard blocks heat well and will survive direct flame impingement for quite a while.
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07-11-2011, 12:07 AM
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Had not thought of the fiberglass duct board.All the AC ducts around here were made of that back when my house was built. I have used it to line I/O boat engine covers. That sure is lighter and easier to work with and could be used with the foil side out inside the safe.
Something to consider!
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07-11-2011, 12:42 AM
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Don't forget the hole in the back of the safe for installing an Goldenrod/light and the hole(s) for bolting to the wall/floor. Get a tube or strip of "Firestop" caulk to seal around the opening after you punch a hole in the back of the lining of the safe, seal it on the exterior of the safe. "Firestop" works by expanding when heated. It's fire resistant properties last up to two hours, depending on how thick it is applied. You should be able to find a small left over piece from a strip at just about any fire sprinkler installation company. It's used to seal around penetrations in fire rated walls. The stuff is not cheap but it works.
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07-11-2011, 03:04 AM
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While it might sound crazy.......what about a sprinkler system all around the safes?
Prices have come down a bit over the past ten or so years.
Maybe building a room around the safes of plywood. Seal the bottom like a washing machine pan so water does not seep in. If the carpet in the safe gets hot enough to combust all of the plastic might melt or deform at least. Got any Glocks?
Check with Undetwriters Labs in Northbrook Illinois for tests for fire and water resistance. Your insurance agent might be a source of info too.
If your stuff is insured they should fall over backwards to help you avoid a claim.
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07-11-2011, 06:38 AM
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OK, I know very little about fires and in 38 yrs only assisted in working three fire investigations since it is basically the job of the Fire Marshall. So I can get an education here as well.
I have a few safes, all but one are gun safes. They are all fireproof for at least 1200 degrees for say a half hour. I am not too concerned with the contents being damaged since I feel any fire here would be out in less time and there is really no ignition points near the safes.
However, an earlier post mentioned computer media and film is not going to last in a fire. I have records that I cannot afford to lose. More important is the thousands of photos on CD/DVD or negatives that I have shot of various ladies over the years. All these are inside a safe that was sold to me for that purpose. Am I understanding that the contents will not survive a fire?
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07-11-2011, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldman45
OK, I know very little about fires and in 38 yrs only assisted in working three fire investigations since it is basically the job of the Fire Marshall. So I can get an education here as well.
I have a few safes, all but one are gun safes. They are all fireproof for at least 1200 degrees for say a half hour. I am not too concerned with the contents being damaged since I feel any fire here would be out in less time and there is really no ignition points near the safes.
However, an earlier post mentioned computer media and film is not going to last in a fire. I have records that I cannot afford to lose. More important is the thousands of photos on CD/DVD or negatives that I have shot of various ladies over the years. All these are inside a safe that was sold to me for that purpose. Am I understanding that the contents will not survive a fire?
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I doubt it. Film, negatives, photos are very sensitive to heat. Even if the fire does not touch them I imagine it would be like putting them in a hot oven. Seems like a bank safe deposit box would be the place for things like that. We keep saying we are gonna get one, but never have.
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07-11-2011, 09:54 AM
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My guns are safe...I got rid of my stove and don't keep any matches in the house.
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07-11-2011, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sipowicz
My guns are safe...I got rid of my stove and don't keep any matches in the house.
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Glocks are not Microwave safe.
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07-11-2011, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldman45
OK, I know very little about fires and in 38 yrs only assisted in working three fire investigations since it is basically the job of the Fire Marshall. So I can get an education here as well.
I have a few safes, all but one are gun safes. They are all fireproof for at least 1200 degrees for say a half hour. I am not too concerned with the contents being damaged since I feel any fire here would be out in less time and there is really no ignition points near the safes.
However, an earlier post mentioned computer media and film is not going to last in a fire. I have records that I cannot afford to lose. More important is the thousands of photos on CD/DVD or negatives that I have shot of various ladies over the years. All these are inside a safe that was sold to me for that purpose. Am I understanding that the contents will not survive a fire?
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No, they will not survive a fire.
UL 125 Fire Resistantance Rating. The safe must keep the temperature below 125 degrees for one to three hours depending on the rating of the safe. Outside temperature up to 2000 degress.
Even regular paper will turn brown and sometimes burn.
What you need is a Data Safe with the above UL listing. They are very expensive.
One way to get around the expense is to buy a fire proof box like Sentry sells. They have one that locks with a key and is fire proof and water proof. Then put that fire box in your gun safe. A Data Safe is just a double insulated safe.
Also, don't leave such items in your car on a hot day where the inside temperature may reach over 125 degrees. Even though the media may look fine, it can be damaged internally.
For extremely important papers and media, back it all up. Make multiple copies and keep them in different locations if possible.
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07-11-2011, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sipowicz
My guns are safe...I got rid of my stove and don't keep any matches in the house.
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You might want to have the electric meter taken out too
Seriously, a lot of fires start because of electrical issues and not just with the wiring in the house.
I almost had a house fire because one of those soft candles that wimen like, decided it wanted to impersonate a volcano. I ruined a perfectly good coat trying to smother Mt. Candleus but still got some nasty burns on the area rug from the molten "lava". Could have been worse..
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