Need Quick Advice on a Savage 99 in .300 Sav.

[Dump1567]

A local shop has one for $110. The stock set looks like a replacement, as it looks too new and doesn't have a gloss finish. The metal looks good. One thing I noticed, is when the lever action is all the way open, the bolt only seems to be open about half way (retracted into the receiver). Is this normal?

I know nothing about these rifles and was wondering if I should chance dropping the $110?

Thanks.

[-db-]

This isn't the best photo but the action should look like this with the lever fully dropped:

[Pop's2]

it should open all the way

[mtgianni]

If you put $400 in gunsmithing into it you could still sell it at a profit most places.

[2152hq]

Just a couple of thoughts.

If the lever is truely full open like in the picture -db- posted,,and the breech bolt is still only 1/2 way open, there would be some disconnect betw the lever and the bolt,,and that isn't supposed to be. Replacement lever, breech bolt or link parts are expensive on the 99 (especially earlier mfg.)

You mention it has replacement wood on the gun.
If the lever only opens about 1/2 the distance as in the picture, and the bolt the same,,the new wood could be interfering with the internal operation. It may need some more inletting or perhaps the person that installed the wood glass bedded it and the bedding material is interfering inside.

The butt stock is a thru-bolt affair and an easy one to remove and work on.
I think the thru-bolt can interfere with the lever if turned in too far. Something to check I guess. Just thinking about the replacement stock again.
Sometimes they bore the stock bolt hole shoulder a little too deep on after market replacement wood.



$110 is an awfully good price for a 99 in 300Sav.
Check all the other things out on the rifle too before jumping in.

[jimmyj]

HI:
BUY IT!!

[semperfi71]

I ain't no Savage expert. But I have a friend who is although he would deny that. They have become quite collectible in the last 20 years or so and there are many variations out there.

Naturally the older versions are more pricey.

If you have the time to educate yourself about Savages, there's a book out there I think called "Savage 99's" find a copy, even if a loaner at another gun shop and educate yourself.

But I'm with "jimmyj", I'd buy it and move forward to making it work.

[4506517]

I have one my father bought new in 1954.....I wouldn't trade it for anything.

[jrm53]

You cant go wrong for that price and the 300 Savage cartridge is a classic. Jeff

[Harrison]

I have a 1950 Savage 99 in 250/3000 or 250 Savage. It is in 95% with just a little bluing wear from me taking it deer hunting over the years. I would take it over any model 94 or 336. BTW, I have been offered $800.00 cash for this little sweetheart. I would not sell it for that.
If you can get a complete Savage 99 for $110 get it. Really rough ones are going for over $400 around here.

[gregintenn]

I'd buy it for parts if nothing else.

[Dump1567]

You mention it has replacement wood on the gun.
If the lever only opens about 1/2 the distance as in the picture, and the bolt the same,,the new wood could be interfering with the internal operation. It may need some more inletting or perhaps the person that installed the wood glass bedded it and the bedding material is interfering inside.

Bingo.
Just spent an hour trying to figure out what area of the stock needed some internal wood removal. Grinded out the sides a little, and now the bolt fully retracts.

I was actually going to pass on this, but my wife talked me into it.

Wood looks new and has a reddish marble color. Metal finish is fair. Bore is fair to good (after much scubbing).
Serial # is 567,xxx. I see the data base ends at 566,000 with the year of 1950. So I'll assume mine is from the early 50's?

Hopefully everything works as it should now. I'll have to pick-up some ammo and give it a try.

Thanks for all the replies.

Here's some pics while disassembled (I have the missing parts not shown).

[2152hq]

1951 probably,just as a guess. It's not drilled and tapped for 'scope mts which they started doing in the early to mid 50's depending on the model. They moved the receiver ring marking to the side when they started doing that.

IIRC #900,000 is right about 1955. That's about the ser# they lengthened the carrier spool to accomodate the 308,243,358 rounds.

Nice piece of wood! That'd run more than what you paid for the whole thing.

The cartridge counter is on '2' in the pic. Assuming the mag is empty, the rotor may need an extra 1/2 turn or more of it's spring to bring it up to full rotational power. If the rotor seems a little lazy or weak when you load rounds into it,,especially the first couple, it just needs to be re-adjusted.

Nice find,,should clean up to make a fine hunting rifle. I'd have bought that one just for the wood and parts.
Jacketed bullets often shoot fine is less than perfect bores.

I've had #436xxx that I just put the original sights back on for an old friend. 300Sav. cal. He hopes to take it white tail hunting later this month.

I have #714xx, also a 300Sav that I bought as a project. Nine extra scope and sight mount holes drilled and tapped into it's receiver !
Looks like a practice plate from a Black & Decker demo booth at Home Depot.
This ones from probably '54 (guess) and has the steel rotor instead of brass.
Slight patina,,Should clean up.

[Dump1567]

Originally Posted by 2152hq

1951 probably,just as a guess. It's not drilled and tapped for 'scope mts which they started doing in the early to mid 50's depending on the model. They moved the receiver ring marking to the side when they started doing that.

IIRC #900,000 is right about 1955. That's about the ser# they lengthened the carrier spool to accomodate the 308,243,358 rounds.

Nice piece of wood! That'd run more than what you paid for the whole thing.

The cartridge counter is on '2' in the pic. Assuming the mag is empty, the rotor may need an extra 1/2 turn or more of it's spring to bring it up to full rotational power. If the rotor seems a little lazy or weak when you load rounds into it,,especially the first couple, it just needs to be re-adjusted.

Nice find,,should clean up to make a fine hunting rifle. I'd have bought that one just for the wood and parts.
Jacketed bullets often shoot fine is less than perfect bores.

I've had #436xxx that I just put the original sights back on for an old friend. 300Sav. cal. He hopes to take it white tail hunting later this month.

I have #714xx, also a 300Sav that I bought as a project. Nine extra scope and sight mount holes drilled and tapped into it's receiver !
Looks like a practice plate from a Black & Decker demo booth at Home Depot.
This ones from probably '54 (guess) and has the steel rotor instead of brass.
Slight patina,,Should clean up.

Thanks for the info.

Had a couple questions.

I was going to add a clear coat finish to the stock which would make it shiny. Will that take away from the value?

I notice there's two holes with screws on the top of the reciever near the back. Aren't these scope mount holes?

Any links or info on how to adjust the mag?

Thanks.

[2152hq]

The two holes in the rear tang are for a tang peep sight. Lyman, Marbles made them for the 99,,probably others. Couldn't quite trust them 'scopes yet ya know, but that was about to change in the early 50's. The demand for 'scope sights and rifles factory drilled and tapped for them made Savage change to D&T the 99 for mounts at the factory. The 'Savage Model 99' marking was then moved down to the left side of the rec'vr ring so it didn't interfere with the holes.

A decent Lyman or Marbles tang sight will cost as much or more than you paid for the rifle unless you run accross another bargain ! They usually go $150+.
>

To give the rotor more spring power you need a spanner type screw driver to fit the screw in the front of the rotor that you can see from the front of the receiver.
Take a normal screw driver and file it to shape so you have 2 spurs, one on each outboard end of the blade to fit.

The screw through the frame at the front of the rec'v holds the rotor in place and also in tension.
The large 'disc' you see from the front of the rec'v is in front of the brass rotor & is slotted at 4 positions to accept that screw on it's outer diameter.
A torsion spring engages the stationary disc and the rotating brass rotor for power.

The accepted way to put the rotor under tension is to wind it up with the spanner you just made 2 and 1/2 turns and then put that screw back into place,,finding one of the 4 slots in the outer diameter of the disc to secure it into position. If it seems to need a bit more tension, hold the rotor in position w/ the spanner, remove the screw, tighten another 1/4 turn and replace the screw.

Try loading the magazine w/rounds and see if you can load it to capacity w/o having to cram them in (too much tension),,and also the last round should have enough tension behind it to be picked up by the bolt and fed cleanly. Not have it fall back with the rotor because of not enough spring tension to the rotor.

You can take the rotor right out as an assembly. The spring, disc and brass rotor stay together as an assembly. Nothing goes flying.
Just pull it out to the front of the receiver after removing that screw on the side.
You can disassemble it further if you really want to however,,generally not necessary unless the spring is broken.
A little oil on the pivot shaft, rotation points and spring helps alot.

>re: yr mfg, Savage use a date code stamp on the 99's too sometimes just as they did on their other firearms.
Look on the bottom of the receiver for a small circle with a letter stamped inside it. Usually stamped on the bottom in the area where the lever pivots on the 99 IIRC.
They started using them in 1949 with 'A'
1950 'B'
1951 'C'
ect.
Search 'Savage date codes' and you should find some info on it.

[Dump1567]

thanks for the info.

[Dump1567]

I went with tung oil.

Back from the dead.