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Old 11-30-2011, 01:48 AM
rog8732 rog8732 is offline
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Default Ren Wax, suggested procedure

This is my first attempt at posting, so be easy on me. I have read many comments regarding the use of not only Ren wax but other brands as well,especially on guns not used very often. What I need is the pre wax steps such as degreasing or any particular way of preparing the surface before hand. Also, is it ok on all gun finishes? By the way,after reading this forum for some weeks now I must say you are the most informed S&W people I have ever encountered! Thanks,Graham
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:47 AM
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Hey, I just got my first jar too. See my other post about the same subject. Someone suggested using alcohol to wipe the oil off of the gun before waxing. I tried it out on a gun that's a little rough. It's definitely good stuff, but I think I'll be more impressed after I do a gun with a better finish, probably here in a few minutes. Does very well on stocks too, for sure.

Someone with a scanner should post the information sheet that comes with the Ren Wax, it gives some interesting details about the development, and how it is different from paste waxes and car waxes. It didn't take much to do a gun, I think the small jar should last for a while, as long as I can resist the urge to use it on my "metallic blue pearl" factory Harley Davidson paint.

Josh P
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:01 AM
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I don't degrease my gun I just put it on let it shine. Yes it's good on wood. I think wood workers and antique furniture refinisher's used this wax before gun nuts. I have used Ren wax on table saw tops to keep them from rusting and help the wood to glide along smoothly. Don
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:20 AM
mhakel mhakel is offline
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Default Ren wax info

Do a "Youtube" search for Ren wax guns, sit back and learn. I really wonder if I can come up with something I want to learn and not find some info on Youtube.
Good luck
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:18 AM
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I use Renaissance Wax on all my guns, not to "shine" the gun, but to put a protective coating on it.
First remove the grips, then take a clean cotton cloth and wipe the gun absolutely clean, paying special attention to the cylinder flutes and all the little nooks and crannies and the frame area underneath the grips. This is usually done while sitting in front of the TV with lots of time.
Rub your index finger across the Ren Wax and apply it to the entire gun, again making sure you get some in all the grooves and angles. It will dry almost instantly, so no need to let it sit after applying the wax.
Take another clean cotton cloth and again rub the entire gun, eliminating all the haze left from the wax. Treat the grips the same way, but don't try to put the wax into the checkering, just the smooth areas. Put the grips back on the gun.
I then handle the gun only with a cloth and don't let my finger touch it while I put it in a clean gun rug.
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:24 AM
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Does this stuff work on guns carried daily? I've just used Break-Free CLP and stainless guns. No rust, etc.

But I can see how the wax would protect a blued gun.
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:27 AM
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"Wax on, Wax off"

I don't use it.

I use Eezox.Way more better than wax
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rule3 View Post
"Wax on, Wax off"

I don't use it.

I use Eezox.Way more better than wax
I agree and yet at the same time I can’t resist tinkering and playing. I still like to use a protective layer of JPW on several of my wood grips, but I use Eezox on just about everything. I do have a gun that I have been rubbing and buffing with JPW, but that is more of a curiosity project than a storage issue. Eezox has really solved any and all of my rust issues though. Ren wax would just be a more expensive tinkering tool.
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximumbob54 View Post
I agree and yet at the same time I can’t resist tinkering and playing. I still like to use a protective layer of JPW on several of my wood grips, but I use Eezox on just about everything. I do have a gun that I have been rubbing and buffing with JPW, but that is more of a curiosity project than a storage issue. Eezox has really solved any and all of my rust issues though. Ren wax would just be a more expensive tinkering tool.
I really like Eezeox but it does contain TCE so gloves are a good idea. To remove the smell from you hands if needed, rubbing alcohol followed by lemon dish soap.

If you want to experiment with a really neat NON toxic product try Ballistol. Use it on metal, wood, leather. I have tested it for corrosion exposed to salt water. It is great. Basically mineral oil.

It's not hype, it really works. Not the best solvent, but will not kill you either

ballistol - The World's Most Use-ful & Environmentally Friendly Lubricant


Sportsman's Gun Oil 16oz Liquid
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:22 PM
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I use Ren Wax, I like it, but there are other products available. As far as a process, I really try and get any oil residue off the surface before I wax it. Oil and wax do not mix well and you just get smears across the surface. Other than that, like was said earlier,"Wax on, Wax off".
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:25 PM
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Ren Wax was developed by the British for protecting museum pieces, metal, wood, leather, etc. It will not harm any surface you put it on. It is also used by furniture re-finishers and builders as the first can of it I bought from a word workers supply co. Those beautiful hand rubbed finish's you see on antique furniture just may be covered with Renaissance Wax.
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:56 PM
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I like to use the PRE-LIM first, by ren wax , for cleaning....then apply Ren Wax! Both can be found at Brownells if you are having trouble finding. You won't want to apply ren wax over an oiled or "greasy" gun.
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:57 PM
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Pretty pricy stuff, both go for about $26 a small jar but it IS a great product!
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Old 11-30-2011, 06:04 PM
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I would add that a little bit goes a long ways. Apply sparingly until you get a handle on how to use it. It really is great stuff.
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