I have a couple of utility guns I need to put some kind of finish on. I am not going to go to the expense of reblues or hard chromes etc., but have decided to use one of the spray/bake on finishes. I have seen the Dura-Cote, as well as Alumahyde and I am sure there others. Just wondering if anyone has used any and what do you think is best?

Alumahyde works great and no baking is needed. It fully cures in a week or so.

The bake on's probably are more durable. Go to Brownells videos and they have some good info.

Surface prep, surface prep, surface prep.

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Still Running Against the Wind

I have two handguns with a spray on finish. Both were in excellent shape and were stored in cheap holsters. The blueing on both were gone and I got a good deal on them. They were not from the same owners and I got them about a year apart.

The first is a Ruger MI II Target with DuraCoat.


The second one is a Ruger Security Six with Cerecoat.


Both finishes are great. They hold up very well to use and oils and solvents don't bother them, at all.

O2Guy,Have you shot the Six since finishing?I say that because I see no turn line in your photo,it makes me think you took the pic right after you finished it.Or is that stuff that durable?
Thanks,

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Dum vivo cano

Hello Curtis. It was nice to meet you in person in Tulsa. Sorry I had to run so quick but time was pressing me. I have a Model 3904 that I Duracoated the frame on, kind of the color of Electroless nickle.

It has held up well, but I found that Kydex plastic holsters WOULD wear it off the highspots. I switched to a Safariland Model 567 (I think) adjustable holster with a lining and have had no further wear problems on the high spots. This over a period of a few years now.

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You're right, that photo was taken right after it was finished. I have shot it quite a bit since, guessing 400 rounds or so, and there still isn't much of a turn line. It's pretty tough stuff.

O2Guy--On the Security six, did you disassemble the cylinder, and if so, how far, and did you do the ends and the ejector rod?

Thanks

I have used several of the bake on finishes and I like John Norells moly-resin. I never had issues using it on several guns. Now if you want a harder and more durable (scratch resistant) surface Cerakote is one to consider. I will be doing my HK rifle in Cerakote in the near future. About all of the finishes offer better rust prevention.



Moly resin on my hunting model 27-

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NRA Certified Instructor & RSO

I've done a few rifle projects with Duracoat, very easy to apply and doesn't require baking but it will speed the curing process. I'm almost ready to do my tactical 870 build, haven't decided on what color yet though. BTW Duracoat has more colors available than you can shake a stick at.
www.lauerweaponry.com

I did an AR receiver and an officers model 45 frame in 1990 with Browells Gun-Kote. Still going strong. I did 'em black and when the rare chip shows up a sharpie make it like new. Course mama wasn't too happy about the smell in her oven & kitchen.

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NRA Benefactor

My son, Andy, has been coating firearms, and other objects for several years. I've never tried it, but I've watched him many times, enough to know that I wouldn't try it myself if I wanted a satisfactory result. Take a look at examples of firearms and other things he has done. He has a lot of equipment most of us don't have, and experience makes all the difference on the finished product. Take a look on his website Guncoat Northwest. He does work for Police, Prisons, Military and Civilians. Call or email him if you have any questions; he's a straight shooter.

beemerrider

What kind of surface prep is necessary to make these coatings stick? I have a couple of guns that I would like to try it on but don't have access to a bead blaster and wonder if fine sandpaper would work.

Under most circumstances a good scuff and thorough degreasing is all that is required.