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01-30-2012, 08:21 PM
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Question about finish durability
Which is more durable/requires less TLC a charcoal blue finish or a modern hot blue finish-assuming that both are properly done. I am having an old 3 screw single six case hardned and blued and am trying to decide on the type of blue. Also does anyone have any experience with Rons Gun Shop restorations Gun Bluing and finishes for antique guns. What types were used, and where they go. ? They appear to know their finishes.
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01-30-2012, 08:26 PM
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Don't know about 'Rons Gun shop' finishes...but Uberti's 'charcoal blue' was quite pretty when new...didn't last for squat. This being the finish on a new Colt clone I bought. Just shooting the gun took the finish of the cylinder face quick.
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01-30-2012, 08:26 PM
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I kinda think you are splitting hairs as really are both a rust type process. If I was having one casehardened I'd go with the charcoal as it is more fitting. I also have to assume since you are going to this much expense you aint gonna be throwing it in the bottom of your hunting boat. If you plan on carrying it in leather, just make sure the holster is lined and the finish will be alright. A couple of coats of Ren Wax or Johnson's will help too.
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01-30-2012, 08:34 PM
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There is a very good explanation of some of the bluing processes in the Brownells paper catalog. They do not go into Bone/Charcoal bluing. I understand this type is labor intensive, and costs much more due to the extra work. Looks beautiful though.
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01-30-2012, 08:54 PM
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I don't have any personal experience with Ron's, but if I remember correctly, Colt had them handle the carbonia bluing on their WWI 1911 re-issues a few years ago. Pretty good endorsement on the quality of their work IMO.
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01-30-2012, 11:09 PM
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True charcoal blue will wear about the same as hot salt blueing. Charcoal blue and Carbonia blue (machine bluing) do have a tendency to flake off the surface on some types of steel with age.
Winchester Lever gun receivers from the pre-hot blue era (pre WW2) show the extreme sometimes. The entire Carbonia Blued receiver is flaked,,sometimes to near plain steel,,while the bbl (rust blued) is still looking fine.
The charcoal blue Uberti and Cimmaron were using on some of their SAA's looked to be nothing more than Nitre Blueing. That will wear very quickly as it's the thinist of oxide color coating.
If you take Nitre up past the sky blue (spring) temper color most use (around 650F) to about 850F, you get a very nice deep blue/black that with the correct polish looks amazingly like Carbonia Blue.
Carbonia Blue/Machine blueing is also done in that temp range but is a different process.
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01-31-2012, 12:01 AM
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Slow rust bluing is the most durable of all the traditional bluing types. It is very labor intensive, but when properly done, will last lifetimes.
This is because slow rust bluing involves layer upon layer of chemically controlled rust. A rusting agent is applied to the steel which creates red oxide on the surface. The parts are then boiled in distilled water to convert the red oxide to black oxide. Then the parts a carded using a soft wire brush to remove the outer layer of black oxide.
This process is repeated over and over until the parts take on a soft blue/black color. When the process has been completed, the finish is almost impervious to rust because the surface has essentially been sealed by the controlled rust bluing process.
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