|
|
01-06-2013, 03:58 PM
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Central Florida
Posts: 5,947
Likes: 24,644
Liked 6,195 Times in 2,575 Posts
|
|
Help with head light/dash light "flickering."
Hi Guys-My 1980 f-150's (restored/garaged) lights are flickering, and once in a blue moon they go out momentarily. Things go better, it seems, when I have the rheostat set to the brighter setting. I would appreciate your experience. Thanks, Flapjack.
Update: Hi Guys: well, I changed the light switch, and the lights seem to be brighter, but could be my imagination. There is still flickering in the headlights and dash lights. I have not driven very far at night to see if the lights go out, but that was a very rare occurrence anyway. I should probably have mentioned this before, but I am far from being an electronics guru-real far! But anyway, my truck has a very Hi energy ignition system: MSD ignition, coil, wires, and a Mallory uni-light distributor. It also has Iridium plugs. I had the thought that the rapid pulsing of the ignition, which fires multiple times instead of just once on each cylinder, may cause this problem, or that the wires, which are probably 6-8 years old, may be losing the ability to insulate, (pause for laughter) like I said, no guru! I would appreciate your thoughts, and clarifying questions. I can live with the situation if the lights will stay lit with reasonable certainty, but would feel better doing what needs doing to fix it if reasonable. Thank you for your help. Flapjack.
Last edited by amazingflapjack; 01-12-2013 at 03:19 PM.
Reason: update
|
01-06-2013, 04:05 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 13,465
Liked 8,495 Times in 2,835 Posts
|
|
Probably a connection problem. You might want to check your generator and especially it's regulator and the grounding cable to the frame.
__________________
Jorge
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
01-06-2013, 04:09 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Virginia, USA
Posts: 778
Likes: 148
Liked 490 Times in 235 Posts
|
|
My first thought would be the headlight dash switch. That is the older type switch that you pull straight back two clicks from the dash, right? I would say it is dirty or worn out. Without seeing the truck it is hard to say, but that would be my first guess.
__________________
Livin’ Life From The Blindside
|
01-06-2013, 04:14 PM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: South of Gritville
Posts: 2,580
Likes: 1,113
Liked 2,547 Times in 1,006 Posts
|
|
Do all electronics go out or just the headlights/dashlights. Does the radio still play? If it's just the lights and the rheostat turned to brighter makes it get better/stop, it sounds like the headlight switch. Don't know about the 80's style F-150 but hopefully it's a push/pull switch on the dash. A little easier to change than one of the rotating type switches built into the turn signal or some other lever on the column.
CW
__________________
μολὼν λαβέ
|
01-06-2013, 04:15 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: North Texas prairie
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 2,521
Liked 2,094 Times in 661 Posts
|
|
Its probably the main switch on the dash. The switch has an "Overamp" cutout for the main lamps. It is a bimetal (Temp controlled) contact that becomes weak with age. It will cut the headlights momentarily even though they are not over amped. The solution is a new switch. The old switch CAN be repaired, but you have to crack the case. I think that you have to drill out rivets.
___________
Boxers or briefs? At my age- Depends.
|
01-06-2013, 05:27 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 22,063
Likes: 10,777
Liked 15,463 Times in 6,787 Posts
|
|
Bet you put blinker fluid in where the headlamp fluid is suppose to go, right??
I hate electrical problems.
__________________
Still Running Against the Wind
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
01-06-2013, 06:40 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lexington KY Area
Posts: 609
Likes: 712
Liked 365 Times in 195 Posts
|
|
Well it could be either the headlight switch or it could be the floor mounted dimmer switch. Check the dimmer switch to make sure there is no corossion on the terminals. Had it happen once to me. Or it could be the headlight switch or the connections to the switch.
|
01-06-2013, 06:54 PM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Bartlett, Tennessee
Posts: 7,604
Likes: 2,923
Liked 18,635 Times in 4,777 Posts
|
|
Common problem. The older Fords with the pull switch tend to loosen at the connectors which makes them overheat. Usually ends up burning the switch and the plug and often melts them together.
Easy fix. New switches and connectors avalible at Napa.
|
01-06-2013, 06:57 PM
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Central Florida
Posts: 5,947
Likes: 24,644
Liked 6,195 Times in 2,575 Posts
|
|
Thanks for the helpful responses, I thought it was probably the switch too, so I will head in that direction. Thanks again, best regards, Flapjack.
|
01-06-2013, 07:00 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Oviedo FL.
Posts: 127
Likes: 13
Liked 24 Times in 18 Posts
|
|
I had a 94 ranger years ago that did that. sometimes if you wiggled the knob or turned it from left to right you could get it in the right position and the lights would stay on. I was indeed the pull out knob/switch on the dash that was failing.
gl and have fun
dave
|
01-06-2013, 07:06 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Gun lovin\' Hollywood Ca.
Posts: 10,238
Likes: 7,741
Liked 18,707 Times in 3,792 Posts
|
|
You might want to rent "Close Encounters of the 3rd Kind."
__________________
Thirty characters. Exactly...
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
01-06-2013, 07:06 PM
|
Banned
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: South East , PA . USA
Posts: 5,027
Likes: 485
Liked 1,610 Times in 884 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by cballman
Well it could be either the headlight switch or it could be the floor mounted dimmer switch. Check the dimmer switch to make sure there is no corossion on the terminals. Had it happen once to me. Or it could be the headlight switch or the connections to the switch.
|
Had that happen in 2 of my Jeeps. Used to drive me nutz! Light would just go out for awhile , and come back on. Corroded foot switch.
|
01-06-2013, 09:32 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lake Charles Louisiana
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 308
Liked 1,185 Times in 453 Posts
|
|
I had that problem with my F-150 -- the lights quit flickering when I quit blinking my eyes. I think it was related to Old Pusser's Rum that found it's way into my pineapple-orange juice.
|
01-06-2013, 09:37 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Nevada
Posts: 155
Likes: 2
Liked 67 Times in 42 Posts
|
|
My experience with my Fords has been the dimmer switch.
|
01-06-2013, 11:11 PM
|
|
Absent Comrade
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 200
Liked 1,531 Times in 729 Posts
|
|
On my 1957 Thunderbird, I had a loose wire behind the dash. It would touch ground and the lights would go out and then come back on.
__________________
Luke 22:36
|
01-06-2013, 11:33 PM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Upper peninsula of Michig
Posts: 4,469
Likes: 31,326
Liked 7,151 Times in 2,395 Posts
|
|
Do what ever needs to be done and then get a little bell like the ones used on your fishing pole and hook it to the rearview mirror . It will keep the Gremlins away. (not the AMC Gremlins) the little gray fuzzie ones that get into the wires and hoses and stuff. I did that on my 52 Desoto worked wonders, until it caught fire.
__________________
Carpriver.
|
01-12-2013, 04:09 PM
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Central Florida
Posts: 5,947
Likes: 24,644
Liked 6,195 Times in 2,575 Posts
|
|
Back to the top please.
|
01-12-2013, 04:32 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: western pa.
Posts: 916
Likes: 1,620
Liked 1,443 Times in 342 Posts
|
|
Flap,I would change the dimmer switch and the headlight switch.headlight switch is part #DS197,Dimmer is #DS70 these are made by Standard ignition and should be obtainable through aftermarket parts stores for probably less than 30.00.Also pull the voltage regulator off of the rad support,passenger side if remember correctly and look for rust or corrosion where it mounts.This may cause a bad ground which will give you fits.Also examine the voltage regulator plug.These are the most common issues with these older Fords.Good luck and hope this helps you.
__________________
I'm just here for the guns.
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
01-12-2013, 05:47 PM
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Central Florida
Posts: 5,947
Likes: 24,644
Liked 6,195 Times in 2,575 Posts
|
|
All right, I just picked up the dimmer switch, and will proceed with checking your other suggestions. Thanks very much.
|
01-12-2013, 05:56 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Illinois
Posts: 527
Likes: 1,128
Liked 477 Times in 185 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykellogg
On my 1957 Thunderbird, I had a loose wire behind the dash. It would touch ground and the lights would go out and then come back on.
|
Yes, my initial thought was a bad ground/short.
|
01-12-2013, 06:06 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Shelbyville KY
Posts: 342
Likes: 9
Liked 138 Times in 57 Posts
|
|
when the lights flicker, are they going completely dead or just getting really dim and then bright again?
|
01-13-2013, 12:01 AM
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Central Florida
Posts: 5,947
Likes: 24,644
Liked 6,195 Times in 2,575 Posts
|
|
DMAX-NEITHER-flickering is the best description I can come up with. To someone who wasn't paying attention, they might not even notice it. It is very fast, and really does not dim.
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
|
|
|
|