I have a machete, I purchased about 20 years ago. It has US stamped into the blade just in front of the handle. It also says Ontario knife on it. Came in a rather cheap something like canvas scabbard. At this point in its life it is Very dull and needs sharpening. I use it down at the lake and along a path that leads to the back part of my property, it’s much easier or quicker than most tools I have especially when cutting at above my head levels.

How do I sharpen this tool? I need a decent working edge not a weapon grade edge.

I have basic files and a bench grinder a few stones. As far as the grinder goes I have a technique I have used for 40 years for sharpening of SOME edge items. I blip the switch quick to turn it on and off and then wait till the blade is sufficiently slowed down and only then do I touch the blade to the wheel. Repeat as many times as are necessary. No overheating or serious metal removed so tell me will this do what I want on this machete. If not what will work? See a PRO sharpening person and let him do it?

Thanks, Dave

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14 S&W Revs none with locks!

I might try a belt sander if you have one. The issue is at the thin cutting edge if it gets hot (grinder/belt sander) it will anneal the edge where it needs to be hard. What you really need is a water cooled wheel. If you have someone stand by and spray water on the blade as you use the grinder, you won't need the blip method you described.

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Luke 22:36

For the type of edge you are talking about I highly recommend a Accusharp knife and tool sharpener. They are not very expensive and will sharpen your knives, garden shears, axes, etc. I use it on my VN military issue one I still have and it works great and is easy to use. Not razor sharp but very usable.

I use a flat file. I have disc grinders, grinding wheels, diamond and Arkansas stones but nothing beats a flat file. My machete is marked True Temper 1945. Larry........... I also have a belt grinder.

What Tops said above^^^^^

Flat File

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Still Running Against the Wind

For something that dull, a flat file to start out with is probably a good idea. A belt sander to finish would work well.

I have to think there are some old timers up that way who would really throw a nice edge on it though. I wouldn't hesitate to go that route. It's good to have "a guy" for that sorta thing anyway.

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paws for friendship

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As a 40 year now retired welder I have a huge load of filing/ grinding and general working with metal experience and I would be quite comfortable taking my time and filling. I have done my own chain saw filling free hand for decades so I feel comfortable with files. I do have a decent assortment of files and plenty of free time so at this time leaning towards having a file party.

Thanks to all that took the time to answer!

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14 S&W Revs none with locks!

I am paying close attention here. I have a Gerber machete that started out dull, and ended up duller after my wife talked me into letting her sharpen it.

She started off with a bench grinder that took most of the edge off while making it about as jagged as the coast of Alaska. She finished rounding it off by using the machete to saw a groove a quarter inch deep in a stone.

Not sure what she had in mind, but both the machete and the stone are now useless. A flat file might be the answer, but it would call for a long, long afternoon of filing.

Under no circumstances let her clean your guns for you!

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14 S&W Revs none with locks!

I use a ten-inch mill ******* file (that term is probably going to be *** out). Nicholson Black Diamond. I tried a Stanley, but it would not make a mark on the metal. Use a good file.

Once the edge is there, get a hockey puck and finish it. I think that is officially called an "axe stone". https://www.google.com/search?q=cake...Foem9ASP9YD4DQ

I have both a Lansky stone and a Norton. The Lansky is better. Cheaper, too.


yeah, I thought it would not let me say that. How about an "illegitimate cut" file?

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I always take precautions

All this did was make me hungry haha :-p

Remember to only stroke in one direction and Polish do not grind.

I know of this guy in MN that would do it for ya. Price is not negotiable

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Still Running Against the Wind

Three dollars to the knife sharpener guy at the gun show and it's done. It probably won't need sharpening again until the next show. I use stones on my knives but a machete is just too long. Or, I take a bunch of them with me when I go see Louisiana Joe.

I use a 1" X 30" belt sander. I got various grit belts from 80 to 550. You have to have a light hand, and work slow enough it doesn't get too hot. I have one particular 320 grit belt that has been used many times and is probably worn down to about a 1000 grit. It will touch up all my blades that are "tool" grade. My pocket knives only get touched to a stone.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I worked briefly in Central America where such tools were as common as cell phones are here. The only thing I ever saw used to sharpen them was a flat file. I true mine with a flat file and finish with a bench belt sander. Same as hatchets and other pruning tools.

Use a smooth/fine flat file to shape the edge and then you can use a stone if you want. Most times a machete lives a hard life and most makers don't use a high grade of steel because they will chip the blade.
You can use a sander on the blade.. but you got to watch the heat!

Now.. this is a machete!

Titanium..

I have alot of sharpening equipment but never tried to sharpen a machete. First, I'd probably do a trial run with my Tormek wet grinder using the long knife jig. If that didn't look promising, I'd consider my Worksharp Tool and Knife sharpener. Lastly, I'd consider diamond, oil, or water stones depending on the steel.

I don't have a belt grinder but that would seem to be a pretty good alternative. I'd try any of these before I went to a high speed or low speed dry grinder. Unless it's jigged properly it'd be impossible for me to maintain the bevel and I'd still have to polish after grinding. I'd only grind with a dry grinder if the machete was chipped or extremely dull. Perhaps some people are good enough with grinders to maintain the bevel and not blue the steel, but not me.

I use a flat file on my WW2 machete, Japanese Cane knife and my Japanese sickle. The cane knife and sickle are at least 30 yrs old, very hard steel. The machete is a Collins, USN dated 1944.

Speaking of Machetes

I use a flat mill file to shape up the edge if there were many pits and dings. Then, Dremel has a stone and attachment that will keep a uniform angle. I don't see the need for further polishing, since it is used primarily for chopping rather than cutting.

IF you know how or can find an OLD COOT to show you how.

DRAW FILE with a single cut file.

You will clamp the blade - edge to left .

Grab file - one end in each hand - tang left - square end right

Draw (pull) the file ALONG the entire length of the cutting edge - Watch the chips roll -

When that side looks good - Revere direction of machete and re-clamp - Draw file the second side as before.

GOOGLE "draw file" barrel - should find some videos or better explanation.

This is MUCH FASTER than pushing that ******* file straight at the edge.

This is a VERY OLD technique. It is the way that gunsmiths of olde finished the flats on those hexagonal / octagonal barrels ..

Bekeart

I have a 8" diameter wheel 3" wide that I bought at a Lapidary store. It takes belts from 60 to 800 grit and I mounted it on a #2 Morse taper that fits my wood lathe. This allows me to use a wide area and relatively low speeds. I have sharpened lawn mower blades, axes, machetes, and many knives on it. I have a 8X2" Black Arkansas stone that I finish the edge with. I have a machete that will shave hair off of my arm. For most knives I also use a felt wheel with a polishing compound on it to make the edges look like a mirror.

I have also used a belt sander to start very dull blades. I leave the blade on the sander for a couple of seconds at a time to keep the blade from getting hot. If it starts feeling hot to the touch, I let it cool before continuing the process.

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Corripe Cervisiam

I spent 4 months in the jungle of Belize on an archaeological site. The natives that were clearing jungle and brush for us with machetes kept a 10" flat file to touch up their machetes about every 10 or 15 minutes. For a machete that is all you need. They were made for rough hard cutting, not fileting fish or skinning a deer. A fine edge will turn or dull quickly if you are using a machete for it's intended purpose.

Best thing for me is a 10" mill illegitimate child. Take your time and you can put a pretty stout edge on it.

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Forum consigliere

One tip I should have added, take a piece of chalk and rub it over the flat of your file. This will help keep metal filings from clogging the files teeth.

Make that an 'illegitimate' file.

Naw, it's more fun to say *******........

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Even older, even crankier....

That's how my dad taught me and it works great! We also did make an octagon barrel out of a round one. Thanks for the memories.

Go to Tractor Supply in garden dept they have a carbide tool like for a knife only angled for garden tools shovel- hoe . Take the ugly off with file first a few drags will do it

Power tools such as grinders or sanders are usually lethal instruments for tempered steel edges, and a file is overkill for all but the seriously abused machete edge. Unless the blade has large chunks missing, forget grinders, sanders, and even files.

First, clean the entire blade of sap &tc. ---kerosene is the safe and effective solvent of choice. Clamp the blade to a bench or table edge, leaving only a centimeter or so of the cutting edge overhanging (so you can't possibly cut yourself too seriously by mistake), and wearing leather gloves for protection, and using plenty of honing oil, hone the cutting edge in just the reverse motion you'd use to hone a smaller blade on a stationary stone, i.e., orbital motion, advancing along the edge. You'll want a flat, circular, double-sided stone (Norton, and others, sell them), with coarse grit on one side, medium on the other. Work alternately both sides of the blade, from coarse to medium grit. Once it,s sharp enough, it's OK to use a polishing wheel with some fine grit polish on a grinder, for final wire-edge removal, and touch-up, but that's as much power tool treatment as a quality edge ought to get.

Again thanks to all that took the time to answer. Lots of good suggestion here. I do have a bunch of files but I will get a new one just for this project. I will get a good one and slowly do the work using no power tools, heck it’s only a machete not a scalpel or a $500+ hand built super knife.

I do know and have done the draw filing technique as mentioned by “Bekeart". Using my old mentor’s advice way back when I was a beginning pipefitter/welder “go slow its faster” I will get this tool back into hacking/slashing form.

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14 S&W Revs none with locks!