I am new to wheelguns and I love them but after shooting my stainless 44mag I cannot seem to get the burnt residue off the outside the cylinder with the cleaner I use for everything else (milcomm MC 25). Do I need a special type cleaner for this or am I not giving enough time to dissolve it.

Welcome to the forum.


Get yourself a Birchwood Casey lead remover cloth.


They work like a charm, and you can pick one up for around $7 +/-.

You can thank me later.

I use Hoppe's #9, fine steel wool, and patience.

Here's photos of my 66, before and after.

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I love starting off a day by learning something as useful as this. Now there will be one less thing bugging me in my life.

THANK YOU

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Real men love cats!

Just make sure you do NOT use it on blued guns.

Polishing cloths as above work great on the POLISHED stainless guns. Use them on the matte, sandblasted variety and you've just ruined your finish.

For the matte varieties (which can be a real pain in the carbon build-up, cylinder issue....I use some gun-specific carbon cleaner applied with a q-tip, let it sit, gently remove w/ q-tip....repeat until the carbon deposit is gone. Then I apply FP-10 to the area to seal and condition the metal. After this procedure a few times it becomes easier and easier, to the point where I don't get any build-up. New guns are the 'worst,' and hardest to remove. This procedure works for me and does not ruin the matte finish, which is porous and holds the carbon. Let the chemicals/cleaner do the work....too much elbow grease or an abrasive substance will forever alter the finish.

I also find the type of powder you use can have a dramatic effect on the build-up if you're a reloader. Sometimes the 'dirty' powders are easier to clean than the hot stuff. Really gets baked on.

Good luck, take your time

On the guns I regularly shoot, I don't worry about it. Just make sure the residue is cleaned, the the burn ring is just cosmetic. It happens every time you shoot it so don't worry about it.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

That is true. The cylinder is only clean and pristine until the next time you shoot it.

I clean the cylinder rings off of customer's guns, unless they tell me not to bother. I take the whole thing apart anyway, so it doesn't take long. I wouldn't have the patience for cleaning those rings, with the cylinder still attached to the revolver. That's just crazy!

DO NOT!!!!! Let it come in contact with any thing BLUED-- wash hands-- will leave a coating, however slight that will help in the next cleaning.

Will share a tip I learned many years ago: Cut heavy duty Scotch-Brite scouring pads into small squares, soak in Hoppe's #9. Will remove carbon and lead from the cylinder face of blued or stainless revolvers with a minimum of effort and no damage to the surface or finish.
Dave
SWCA #2778

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mr mom
Fire Chief, Retired

I'll be trying that.
Thanks.

Does it work with Hoppe's Elite?

Guess I don't know the answer to that. I've only ever used the original Hoppe's #9 (maybe I'm addicted to the fragrance!?). Try a little of the Elite and let us know. The nice thing about the Scotch-Brite pads is they are soft and will dissentagrate before they can ever do any damage to the bluing.
Dave

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mr mom
Fire Chief, Retired

I'll ask my maid.

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Thirty characters. Exactly...

I thought I might be the only person having problems cleaning off those deposits. Hoppe's didn't work for me but the surface of the cylinder was smooth so I just quit trying to clean it. Now i see by the comments that others have done this as well. Like someone said, it's only clean until you fire it again and then the deposits are back. guess I'm doing OK.

Might be extreme for some but I don't shoot very often. I use a round brass brush on a dremel tool, first applying a small amount of mothers mag cleaner. It is kind of messy but cleans up easily

I bought a lifetime supply of german made " WENOL" polish (paste ) works like magic.
6 tubes......M. Mag cleaner is the bargain ..

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Dino in Pittsburgh's Rat Pack

Sip Does your maid do shoot guns? Mine demands more money for shoot guns and cooking and windows.

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Carpriver.

I would be really careful with Scotchbrite pads. They'll take blue off in a jiffy.

When I bought my first stainless revolver I was like you; wanted it clean as the day I got it. Alas, I learned that some things are meant to show a little wear.

This is my Blackhawk:


The ring around the exit side of the chamber has no effect on the operation of the gun. In fact, trying to remove it with steel wool or scrub pads also removes the surrounding metal. I'd rather leave it there than risk altering the cylinder, no matter how small that alteration is.

It is a mark of experience. Be proud that you shoot your gun.

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Freedom isn't free.

+10 on that!! I don't worry about it, either.

The only time I might ever even consider getting one that clean is if I were trying to sell a gun... but I don't sell them, so that's a moot point.

toothbrush and either Mothers mag polish, flitz or simichrome does it, and does it well! I tube of any of the above will last for years.

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Rimfires Makes me "Insane"

Well sure, but we're talking Smiths....nobody cleans Rugers.

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Thirty characters. Exactly...

I don't put steel anything to my gun. I was going to use a bronze brush but I found (actually my wife had some) a Shaklee product that is made for taking burned stuff off of kitchen items which melts the burned crud off the face of the face of the cylinder. It only takes a little rubbing and when done the cylinder looks like new.

Simichrome Blue Away 420071:Amazon:Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41F9ZbTc%2BKL.@@AMEPARAM@@41F9ZbTc%2BKL
I use blue away on my stainless revolver. Only on the end of the cylinder that has the powder burns. Light pressure is all that's needed.
Learned about this stuff at work. After tig welding stainless, it will remove the blue burn mark in the metal. It is slightly abrasive so test it first.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

NEVR-DULL (correct spelling for a trademarked product)

Nevr-Dull works well.

It is used to remove tarnish form copper/brass/silver.

Seems to contain some propitiatory snake oil chemical cleaning agent.

Does NOT scratch highly polished sterling silver.

Bekeart

Haha! Yeah, I bought that Blackhawk used and the previous owner didn't care about cleanliness much. I also just bought a Mark III that was even worse.

Hmmm, you may be right. Am I the only Ruger owner that cleans is guns?

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Freedom isn't free.

I use an eraser.

To be fair, I do clean mine...but only because it's a Gemini Custom and Marc at Gemini would be upset if I didn't.

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Thirty characters. Exactly...