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  #1  
Old 11-28-2014, 07:37 PM
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Default Gun lubricant

What do you use to lubricate your semi auto pistol's.?
I have found that Lucas Oil gun oil, works well for me..It is the color of transmission fluid, it might be..
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Old 11-28-2014, 07:46 PM
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I've been using Zero Friction. Its thin and light. A 2 oz bottle has lasted me over 10 years. It might be going bad for all I know.

I recently picked up a small tube of Frog Lube and heard good things about it (from other than the people who make or sell it) and hope it reduces filth build up as well as lubes.
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Old 11-28-2014, 07:55 PM
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I oil the innards where the action is but grease the rail on the slide to frame fit. I like graphite grease and most any light oil. Currently using Hoppes oil because it's a small bottle.

Last edited by just jim; 11-28-2014 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 11-28-2014, 07:55 PM
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Either Hoppes Oil, polyurea grease, or militec. They, and about a 1000 other products work. 10w30 would work
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Old 11-28-2014, 07:57 PM
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Froglube here.
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Old 11-28-2014, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Llando88 View Post
Froglube here.
What's your experience with it giving a barrier to keep grime and steel apart for easy cleaning?
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Old 11-28-2014, 08:10 PM
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I recently discovered Ballistol, seems to work great; less toxic.
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Old 11-28-2014, 08:15 PM
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I currently use militec. Once that bottle is gone, I'm switching to Gunzilla.
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Old 11-28-2014, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simmer down View Post
What's your experience with it giving a barrier to keep grime and steel apart for easy cleaning?
Well, you know, I am no expert, but it seems to work for me. I still have about half a 4 oz bottle I ordrered a year ago; I shoot/clean about 200 rounds a month.

The carbon seems to come off fairly easily. I use a small amount of paste on a brush on the slide, and allow a bit of CLP in the barrel to soak.

The barrel then gets cleaned out with damp patches, boresnaked, then dry patches.

Everything gets wiped down, then I use a small dab of the paste on the lube points per the S&W manual. It then goes together clean and mostly dry.

There are more thoughts on the product here:

How satisfied are you with Froglube? (2014)

Most seem pretty satisfied with it. I am.
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Old 11-28-2014, 08:57 PM
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Been using break free for as long as I can remember and have had no problems.
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Old 11-28-2014, 09:13 PM
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Generally use CLP. Have been known to use grease on the rails of my pistols. Once upon a time I got real frisky and got some Wilson's oil and grease... in little squirt type things like are used to give shots to animals... and people. Used it. Worked well. Nowadays, just use the CLP. Got a bottle of something called MFR-7 from Progold Lubricants that one of the fellows at the range gave to me. It's a light grade oil, seems to work well. Truth is, all the common gun type lubricants seem to work well. JMHO. Sincerely. brucev.
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Old 11-28-2014, 09:15 PM
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I'm not a high-speed, Delta Rainbow Team Six operator in need of exotic lubricants that work in "X-treeeeeeme" conditions. Break-Free CLP is more than adequate for me.
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Old 11-28-2014, 09:27 PM
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Glocks need oil?
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Old 11-28-2014, 09:44 PM
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A suggestive hint of Mobil1 followed by a dab of Mobilith on the rails. If I'm feeling frisky I'll put some Hoppes behind my ears.
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Old 11-28-2014, 10:33 PM
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Glocks need oil?
Nope. Just copper Never-Seez, if you ask the Glock faithful.
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Old 11-28-2014, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilike9mm View Post
I recently discovered Ballistol, seems to work great; less toxic.
Me too, well enough to pop for a large bottle. I was never sold on "one size fits all" products, but Ballistol seems to get it done.
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Old 11-28-2014, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litenlarry View Post
What do you use to lubricate your semi auto pistol's.?
I have found that Lucas Oil gun oil, works well for me..It is the color of transmission fluid, it might be..
Motor oil, sewing machine oil, honing oil, WD40, brake fluid, transmission fluid, frog lube, break free, olive oil, gun scrubber, 3 in 1, CLP, RemOil, Hoppes, hog fat, german soldiers, any of the above, none of the above . . .
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Old 11-28-2014, 11:45 PM
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Any light oil will work. Any light to medium grease on the frame/slide rails will work.

End of story.
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Old 11-28-2014, 11:49 PM
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Frog lube on everything from my Shield to my AR 15. Use it as directed and it will work great.
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Old 11-29-2014, 12:34 AM
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The manual with my 5943 says to use 4 drops of gun oil and that's what I do. It doesn't seem to need anything else. The only situation I think might be different was in really cold weather. The Russians in WWII had to find an oil that wouldn't stiffen up at cold temperatures. I live in SC. I don't have that problem. Some guns might require a little grease on the rails.
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Old 11-29-2014, 12:55 AM
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Gun lubricant is nearly as good of a debate topic as religious politics.
Therefore it is my duty to really toss a wrench into the works, and watch the chunks fly.
Action parts lightly oiled ..... so far so good .
slide rails barrel bushing and guide rod ... dead bone dry.
I powder coated these parts with Teflon coating back in late August, and I am still waiting for this stuff to fail.
It's match gun tight, and past combat gun slick, without any chance of accumulating grit, gum or grime like grease or oil.

Even if I end up stripping it for a recoat once or twice a year, I see no reason to return to grease.
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  #22  
Old 11-29-2014, 01:11 AM
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Molybdenum in a paste or anti-seeze form only because it has a higher percentage of moly in it.
Molybdenum;

Eliminates all wear
Reduces friction
Prevents galling.
Fights corrosion
Stays were we apply it

Your gun will cycle faster and smoother(semi auto) it will smooth out the DA / sa actions on revolvers. It will lessen the trigger pull on any gun and smooth it out like a expensive trigger job was done.

Do not use anything else but the molybdenum paste or anti-seeze. Don't use the moly grease of flakes then post it doesn't work. I been using moly for over 40 years now it's never failed me and it still impresses me in every application I use it in.

On my brand new Russian saiga applying moly to the bolt carrier and receiver rails, the gas piston / tube, recoil spring, on the rotating bolt and trigger sear actually smoothes out the trigger and the action is so smooth it feels like a more expensive semi auto rifle. She cycles faster, smoother with less trigger pull.

Molybdenum my guns never leave home without it.

Did I say I use only molybdenum?

Oil doesn't eliminate wear, oil doesn't reduce friction, oil doesn't prevent galling, oil may prevent rust. Oil is for the bores.

Take any pistol. Tear it down, clean it and try running the slide on the frame by hand dry no lube. Then try oil and run the slide. Clean it again and apply molybdenum now run the slide. You will be impressed how smooth it will operate by hand.

My fight is against wear. I see many used guns with excessive frame to slide wear(pistols) when it can be prevented. Just try it once.

www.ts-moly.com. ts70 moly

Last edited by BigBill; 11-29-2014 at 01:22 AM.
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Old 11-29-2014, 02:04 AM
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Haven't cleaned my semi-auto's in a while. But I've been scrubbing a few long guns. Last was a stainless Mini-14. After cleaning I spray Rem Oil on everything and let it soak in. Preferably overnight. Wipe off any excess. I may put a drop of Hoppe's gun oil on the trigger group springs and pivots, but I use light weight synthetic grease on anything that slides metal to metal.

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Old 11-29-2014, 02:44 AM
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Rem Oil on everything, since way back. It just works.
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Old 11-29-2014, 03:50 AM
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GrantCunningham.com - Library

Lubriplate "SFL" NLGI #0 grease

Lubriplate's FMO-AW oil (specifically the 350-AW weight.


Food Grade Lubricant - NSF H-1 Registered Lubricants - Lubriplate

Hunting Lubricants - Lubriplate

The above is from Grant Cunningham's Lubrication 101 blog. I ordered through the Lubriplate on-line store under " Hunting Lubricants" and use the grease and oil.

My experience mirrors what Grant wrote. Appreciate his effort
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  #26  
Old 11-29-2014, 08:02 AM
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i am going to try fireclean. i just ordered a bottle, it should be here by the end of the week
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Old 11-29-2014, 08:15 AM
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Pretty much all the products mentioned above will work just fine. The IMPORTANT THING HERE IS: USE SOMETHING & CLEAN AFTER SHOOTING!

My personal favorite is Rig#2 Oil. I used to grease the rails of my Autos but did not care for the grit, powder residue and crud that the grease liked to attract. Now the Rig #2 Oil gets used on ALL firearms - all parts all the time. VERY HAPPY WITH RESULTS FOR 30+ YEARS..........
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Old 11-29-2014, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
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Glocks need oil?

What's a Glock?
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Old 11-29-2014, 10:53 AM
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I use CLP on everything but my German Mausers. I use old, dirty motor oil on them as did their previous owners.
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Old 11-29-2014, 12:31 PM
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I have been very impressed with Gibbs:

* Firearm Cleaning Oil
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Old 11-29-2014, 12:35 PM
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I always buy the latest and greatest "find", but it has to meet certain criteria:

It should be absurdly expensive
It should clean, lubricate, protect from corrosion and do dishes
It should come in a teeny tiny container and be hard to find at Walmart
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Old 11-29-2014, 01:20 PM
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I first started using Breakfree CLP on my S&W Mod 27 (for you youngsters that's a N frame revolver) back in the very early 80's and continued using it when I transitioned to semi-auto's...it hasn't failed me so I see no reason to change. I have a VERY OLD bottle of Hoppe's #9 for the barrel if Breakfree can't get the job done...hmm now where did I put the ol' bottle of #9...been so long since I've used it!
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Old 11-29-2014, 02:00 PM
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After shooting any gun lubed with moly I wipe the gun dry inside leaving the burnished moly that's in the pores of the metal in the pores. It's really easy to clean. I wash the bore very carefully. I relube the gun with moly and oil the bore if it's not chrome lined and it's done. It's very easy to clean.

Remember when the molybdenum is burnished into both of the moving metal to metal contact parts it's molybdenum against molybdenum there is no metal to metal contact. Thus the friction is reduced and all wear is eliminated.

Last edited by BigBill; 11-29-2014 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 11-29-2014, 02:06 PM
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Food grade lubes?? You can fry with them at the hunting camp.
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Old 11-29-2014, 02:15 PM
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CLP and a couple drops of Rem-Oil seems to be the ticket for me and my KISS philosophy.
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Old 11-29-2014, 03:55 PM
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Oil doesn't eliminate wear, oil doesn't reduce friction, oil doesn't prevent galling, oil may prevent rust. Oil is for the bores.


www.ts-moly.com. ts70 moly
I go along with the rest of your post, but this is just plain wrong!

I don't think ANYTHING completely eliminates wear and oil is a 'lubricant', which by definition reduces friction.
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Old 11-29-2014, 08:55 PM
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For anything that slides, Castrol Braycote Micronic® 803 Grease very thin coat. Everything else that rotates on a pin, Mobile 1 Synthetic oil. Rig grease wiped on to keep the rust away. Ed's red for a cleaning solvent.
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Old 11-29-2014, 09:57 PM
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Hoppe's #9, Ballistol, Lubriplate...maybe a little Hoppe's oil from time to time.
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Old 11-29-2014, 10:50 PM
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Another happy "Froglube" user here.
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Old 11-29-2014, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwsmith View Post
I go along with the rest of your post, but this is just plain wrong!

I don't think ANYTHING completely eliminates wear and oil is a 'lubricant', which by definition reduces friction.
By that definition so is water
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Old 11-29-2014, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwsmith View Post
I go along with the rest of your post, but this is just plain wrong!

I don't think ANYTHING completely eliminates wear and oil is a 'lubricant', which by definition reduces friction.
Once you feel the difference between running a dry slide on the dry frame by hand. Then try the same thing again with the frame rails lubed with molybdenum you will feel what I'm talking about.
My post isn't wrong.

Oil prevents rust.

Last edited by BigBill; 11-29-2014 at 10:58 PM.
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Old 11-29-2014, 11:06 PM
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Tetra Gun Grease on the rails and a couple drops of Rem-oil on the innards.
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Old 11-29-2014, 11:41 PM
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I use Mopar auto tranny fluid, sparingly.
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Old 11-30-2014, 12:04 AM
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What's a Glock?
It's what retired the revolver.
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  #45  
Old 11-30-2014, 12:04 AM
Hapworth Hapworth is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soFlaNative View Post
By that definition so is water
Not according to my hot tub experience...
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  #46  
Old 11-30-2014, 02:52 PM
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Back in the 40's the only thing that came with the 1911 was a little container that held a off white paste to keep it running.

If you needed to clean it more you could use a bottle that held
a liquid to keep the mosquito's off you. It did everything !!

Today you guys are way too spoiled !!
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  #47  
Old 11-30-2014, 03:36 PM
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S&W as well as Wilson Combat.
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  #48  
Old 11-30-2014, 05:05 PM
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Right now, I use Powder Blaster on all metal parts to remove EVERYTHING. Then I apply Break Free CLP to everything. Finally, I apply Wilson Combat Grease to the rails. My guns look and function like they're brand new.

I'm almost out of Break Free CLP, so next I am going to order Weapon Shield because I heard they are just as good, if not better. Also Weapon Shield is manufactured in the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania.

Last edited by Philadelphia Patriot; 11-30-2014 at 06:27 PM.
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  #49  
Old 11-30-2014, 08:06 PM
ImprovedModel56Fan ImprovedModel56Fan is online now
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I don't know, but I'm pretty sure that almost everything mentioned works. I believe that RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube works a bit better than some in high-pressure applications. In fact, it's almost as good as an action job on a revolver, and in a 1911, I would strongly recommend doing a complete safety check after using it on the critical sear and hammer surfaces. It should be used on the link, slide stop shaft, muzzle and bushing and, of course rails. Again, the other stuff all works, too, but I think that in some cases, the RIG +P is an improvement.

Needless to say, don't use it on a revolver without a model number stamped in the frame.
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  #50  
Old 11-30-2014, 08:20 PM
Nico Testosteros Nico Testosteros is offline
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Lube threads are like caliber x vs caliber y threads.
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