I m having a new safe delivered in the morning and plan to bolt it to the concrete floor using 4 drop in anchors. Are 3/8" big enough? I have already bought the 3/8" hardware and bit but can buy the 1/2" stuff if it would be that much better. I do have a hammer drill.

I am open to any suggestions.

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AL
Pax Per Potens

3/8" should be more than adequate. A couple of suggestions though. Concrete floors hold a lot of moisture and the safe is steel. We installed mine sitting on four hockey pucks and bolted to the wall.

As they say, bigger is generally better in many situations but.... I might think four .38" anchors will keep your safe upright and secure against all but the most determined criminals.

LTC

As strange as it may seem, I just happen to have a stack of hockey pucks. It will be in the house on a top of a pergo floor so the moisture from the concrete should not be a problem.

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AL
Pax Per Potens

Thanks for the replies and setting my mind at ease. I can't wait to get all my stuff transferred from the cheapo safe like thing to a real safe.

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AL
Pax Per Potens

This probably doesn't need to be said but be sure to get it perfectly level before bolting it down, those doors are heavy. And don't over-torque the bolts. Snapping one off would suck.

Does the safe come pre-drilled for floor anchors? Some safes do and some don't. Generally, whoever is installing the safe should have the equipment he needs to anchor the safe to the floor, including drilling through the bottom of the safe.

Yes, it's pre-drilled for anchors. It's being delivered by a local moving company so bolting it down is up to me. I have done concrete anchors before so it should go smooth.

I will be sure to get it level too. Thanks for the reminder.

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AL
Pax Per Potens

The only way 3/8" diameter masonry anchors will not be adequate is if you continuously second guess yourself for not using the 1/2" bolts.

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paws for friendship

Looking at the data, I conclude there are 3 major areas of vulnerability for a gun safe:

1. Pry bar - hammer attack.

2. Welding torch or plasma cutter attack.

3 Hydraulic lift - jaws of life tool type attack.

Of the 3, the 1st is the most common as it is the method employed by almost all burglar-thieves you are apt to encounter. To be successful, the the safe must be on its back or side with enough space between it and the walls for the crook to get ample leverage. The bolt down and placement of the safe are crucial in thwarting this attack. Helps if the safe is flush in a corner and flat on the ground to prevent the pry bar from achieving purchase.

Bolts will not prevent success from attacks 2 or 3 so they need only to be strong enough to thwart 1. Most recommend at least 3/8" x 3 1/2" bolts.

If you're worried about moisture from concrete, use a good chemical and/ or physical moisture seal on the safe bottom. I wouldn't recommend suspending the bottom above the surface because of the concerns addressed above.

IMO unless your safe has at least 1/4" solid steel sides and/or an advanced heat dispersing polymer construction your safe is not going to stand up to a type 2 attack and unless your safe is like a bank vault and set in cement, you'll likely be screwed in case of the 3rd type attack.

The best strategy might be to have a number of smaller type 1 resistant safes in multiple locations rather than 1 big expensive safe intended to resist all 3 attack types.

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Rush

Be sure to get the names of the guys moving the safe..better yet get a pic of them all smiling for doing a good move job. Loose lips sink ships

I am a installer of heavy duty park benches, picnic tables and such for outside rec. and playground centers and have gone from the drive-in anchors to using mostly 3/8"X 4" to 5" stainless steel carriages bolts and hammer drill 1/2" holes deep enough for the bolts to drop in 100%. After drilling the 1/2" holes and clearing the powder residue, I use a product called Rockite. Home Depot or Ace Hardware, Lowes have it. Mixes with water, like pancake batter and don't need much for 4-1/2" holes. Fill the holes till 1" from the top of concrete and asap drop the 3/8" bolts in place.
Rockite sets up fast as in just a couple minutes. Only negative is with the carriage bolt head, it can't be removed like a standard nut on the drive-in sleeve anchor. Instead if the item needs to be moved the I use a reciprocating saw and metal cutting blades to cut thru the bolts.
But you could also use all thread and standard nuts too. I use the carriage bolts for helping theft
prevention.

much easier install than banging away with a two pound hammer in tight areas.

Rockite is commonly called a anchoring cement.
https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/s...gNdQB&usqp=CAY

Bolting it to framed walls allows a thief to break the studs and haul it all off.

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Front sight and squeeze

If you really get one full, you don't need to bolt it down. The weight alone will keep it in place. LOL

Suggest largest size bolt fitting holes in safe. Also use grade 8 bolts

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Old Guys Rule!

I just bolted mine down and used 3/8" bolts. I then thought about bolting it to the wall but I would have to move it now to get into the studs. Think about that before you bolt it down.

When safes are stolen they use hand trucks. In order to use a hand truck you need a space under the safe to get the hand truck under the safe. Mine sits on the floor and can't be moved enough to get a hand truck or any thing under it to pry it up. That was by design.

Then I bought lots of insurance.

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That's just somebody talkin.

Hmmm I could open one pretty fast with a good grinder an .045 slitter disks. I have cut up lots of stainless steel up to 1" think with them. Fairly fast to. The 6" ones are sweet.

But, most metal trade guys are not thieves, but they can be hard to keep out of things. JOKE

I have bolted down 7 gun safes over the years. Four of them were for my own use. FWIW I’m a now retired construction worker (pipefitter) bolting and hanging things were a big part of my work.

I also drilled the back of my safes and put a couple into the back wall (concrete)
.

If done right 3/8 is more than adequate with the number you quoted I tend to be a bit paranoid as I live out a ways in the boonies, my safe is big & heavy to begin, with weights about 1400 dry.

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14 S&W Revs none with locks!

3/8"is OK and 1/2" would be even better, but the more important thing here is to do ALL FOUR corners. Some safe manufacturers only put two holes in the floor plate diagonally apart. if that is the case with yours I'd suggest you drilling another two holes.

I know of safes here in town that were cut open with rotary grinders.
A square hole large enough to reach in and pull out handguns was cut in the side.

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NRA LIFE MEMBER

I have these posted also. They look impressive to others but will not stop a thief from getting what they came for. Not like they are going to sell the firearms legally.

A safe will keep a honest person honest and a grab and run thief from getting what's inside. A determined thief with time on their side will get what inside. Now as for your question you may want to use grade 8 bolts which would have a tensile strength of +150000psi and most of the others will have less then 100000psi. If you have to ask which to use then use the biggest you can get through the holes. As for the hockey pucks will they compress after time with this major load on them and if so you will need to be able to retighten the bolts with time.

Now this is on it's side but standing up it might take a few seconds longer. This is not one of the high dollar safes but a common type.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8ViUdd-2LM

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Psalm 23:4

I installed two last year. The prior one is bolted to the wall downstairs. We moved it with a refrigerator dolly and block and tackle (it's in the basement). It had to empty for 2 of us to move it. It is inside of a closet. Est weight is 700 pounds. The other is upstairs and in a corner and bolted to the floor.

The two I just installed are in the back hallway. They are bolted to the floor (oak hardwood) and are underneath built-in cabinets (1/4" clearance above with walls on both sides==a perfect little niche.). Besides, we are remodeling and installing new floors==that will raise the floor by almost one inch==creating a lip in front of the safe. There are no doors or window with a straight line and any ropes/chains will require at least 2 90-degree bends. No fork lift, etc could access without removing at least 2 walls, both of which are load-bearing. We could NOT move these safes with a refrigerator dolly when empty (2 LARGE men and 2 ambitious women).

Basically, removal of any of these safes will require some pretty extensive alterations to the house (removal of walls, etc).

PS: I have nosy neighbors!!

The deed is done. I tried drilling the holes with a small hammer drill from Lowes and gave up after drilling 1/2" in 15 minutes. It would have taken hours at that rate. I went to the local tool rental place and got a real hammer drill and had 4 holes 4 1/2" deep in 15 minutes. What a difference a good too makes.

I used 3/8" x 3 3/4" high strength wedge anchors and it all went very smooth. Now I just need to figure out how I got all that stuff in a safe half the size. I was finding guns that I forgot about as I was moving stuff. They sure do accumulate.

I would like to thank everybody for the help and suggestions. I feel a bit safer tonight.

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AL
Pax Per Potens