Any one here had a privacy wood fence installed on your property lately . I got estimates for wooded 8 foot at $20.00 per foot is that the going rate seemes a bit high

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Spin The Wheel

Sounds about right for 8', most all in the NW go with a 6' fence and I am sure that would save you some money, but I understand some situations call for 8'.

Sounds reasonable to me. Would be higher yet for Cedar.

I may end up doing the labor myself. I think the $20.00 per feet is the high end. I have two more estimates comeing. We need 8 feet for sure

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Spin The Wheel

If I could get a company at 12 to 15 per foot I may have them do it. Its 190 feet on the side I need the 8 foot . its all chain link in 6 foot. Now I am leaving chain up as well

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Spin The Wheel

Keep in mind the wood fence require a lot of upkeep and the longer they are up the more they need.

Although you don't mention what style boards would be used (maybe gothic tip, maybe French tip, maybe dog ear?), if you can get 8-foot privacy fence for $20 a linear foot, jump on it. I'm guessing you'll use 1x6 boards?

Don't know how companies do it where you live, but when I had my six-foot privacy fence built, gates were an added expense. I had two five-foot-wide gates built, plus a double gate for the driveway that led into the rear of the property. Mine ended up running about $25 per linear foot.

At my previous house, I had a six-foot privacy fence built...just regular ol' treated lumber. I moved after nineteen years there and never had to do a thing to the fence as far as any sort of maintenance or upkeep.

I guess if someone wants to paint their fence, or treat it with waterproofing, that'd qualify as upkeep if it had to be refinished over the years. I like the natural weathered look, myself.

I needed an exemption here in central Ca. for a 7 ft.
Just make sure the posts are sunk into concrete.
Treated or redwood.

Any one here do there own I may do it on own. We have more time now than money. Anyone with me on that lol

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Spin The Wheel

I have done my own. In fact my BIL were in the fencing business many years ago. We put up chain link and 6 ft western cedar.

Things to know

Dig post holes 24" deep minimum.
Use treated pine for the 4"x4" posts. Better yet, steel posts
Use treated pine for the rails
Butt up the pickets up next to each other, they will shrink when they dry
Plan on 1 bag of ready mix cement for every two post holes. That's just to get in the ball park.
Get some saw horses.
Get a bubble level
Get a shovel, post hole digger, hammer, circular saw, and a wheel barrow.
Rails are usually 8 ft long. Sometimes its easier to set the posts slightly closer and cut the rails to fit rather than to try to set each post exactly 8 ft center to center
Do not use #3 Cedar. #2 is okay, #1 is best, but more expensive.

You might want to check your local building codes. Our code here only allows a 6 foot fence.

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Dean
SWCA #680 SWHF #446

I just this summer installed 7 sections of cedar stockade down one sideline of my property. I bought the fence and posts at Home Depot. The fence that I bought is only 6' tall and the sections are 8' long. IIRC, the fence was about $65 per section and the posts around $13 plus tax.

If I am doing the math correctly that works out to a little over $10 per foot without labor. I would think that adding labor could have easily taken that price to $20 per foot.

I was lucky as I was replacing an older fence so the holes for the old posts almost matched where the new posts went. All I really had to do was shave the sides a little. The hardest part was manhandling the 8' sections by myself and the fact that each section that I installed put me farther away from where the delivery pile was. After the first 3 sections I was able to coerce a buddy to come over and at least carry the sections to their approximate location. Then all I had to do was stand them up and drag them a few feet to their new location.

Not sure what the ground looks like where you are but I always install my wood fences up about 4 to 6 inches off the ground. This prevents the bottom of the fence from rotting and extends the life. I also use a pump sprayer full of Thompson's Water seal and give the fence a good coating on both sides. I pay special attention to the horizontal rails as they take the worst of rain water or snow laying on them and beginning the decaying process.

Since we get a lot of leaves here in the fall, I also bought a section of the white plastic lattice. I cut it into 6" strips and screwed it to the back (flat) side of the stockade. This helps keep my neighbors leaves on his side and slows the weeds from crossing into my mulched flower beds that run the entire length of the fence.

I also added some solar post cap lights that I found at Home Depot that light the yard slightly at night.

Well that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

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James Redfield
LM #497

Good post by JSR III. The only thing I can add is that no matter how much work you think it will be, double what you are thinking. Not to discourage you but that's how these projects go. Definitely get a helper, either a friend or if need be, hire a handy man type. Trying to do stuff like this by yourself is a nightmare.

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You're shy a few manners.

Copy that it's in a rural area. I went to county code to find them telling me six is max. But you could go before county asking to go 8 feet to the tune of $45.000 non refundable. Speaking to fence contractor yesterday he said thats non sense. So we will see as we get ready. Most likely october november.Really need the 8 feet being the property side where putting the fence up has been condemend since 2009 . The county is still allowing this to go on. We have looked into legal advice on this also.We may file a case if on county if need be.

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Spin The Wheel

Not sure if it is the same in your area but if the county BOH will not act, take it up the ladder to the state BOH. I would also write a letter to the assessors office indicating that the neighbors property is lowering the value of yours and therefore you are due a rebate on your taxes. Send a copy to the BOH and the selectmen or mayor as nothing gets government moving faster than the threat of reduced revenue.

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James Redfield
LM #497

Everything that Bozz10mm put in this list is gospel. Especially the "steel posts" and the "treated 2"x4" rails" (in these parts they are sometimes referred to as runners). In the future you will find that replacing a few bad pickets is a lot less expensive and time consuming than replacing a section of fence because a post(s) failed. hatdcase60

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You want me to do what?

In Nevada we have a lot of rocks and large Boulders under the surface.
If you have "Good" soil. a post hole digger is not that much money
and it is good exercise, when laid out with the help of a string line.
A little cement goes a long way, so make tight holes, if possible.
If treated wood, forget about the cement and tamp down the dirt well.

I did chain link fence for a living with Tholl Fencing, here in Reno.
Layout and the "Corner post" set up first and braced for the
string line is the main secret to a good fence line and height.
Good luck.

Fencing is easy work, the hardest part is often digging the holes and setting the posts.
You could consider having some pros set your posts then finish it from there yourself.

Might want to sub out the post holes or rent an auger and a couple of young guys

Have installed, repaired a few fences.
If starting from scratch, I would only use steel or concrete posts.
After you have dug a few busted posts out of the concrete, then you will know why!
At one house, I finally gave up on doing that.
I just dug a new hole next to the old hole.
Then I used a 10 foot runner instead of the 8 foot.

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NRA LIFE MEMBER

When I lived in NV, it was wood fences and the winds would blow them down, especially after they dried out for a few years. Here in Florida now, most fence builders are avoiding them because the wood posts rot quickly. Vinyl is expensive but works out better in the long run.

I had a fence installed 22 years ago but truthfully can't recall what I paid. I do know it was not cheap!

Shop it around and get some other estimates. If they are all about the same you know the price is what the going rate is.

That works fine if you are nailing the rails to the posts but if using stockade sections where the three rails go into three holes in the post then that is not an option.

Vinyl is nice and I am replacing aluminum siding on my house with vinyl. I don't like painting. But around here the white vinyl fences turn green from mold and in the winter if you look at them the wrong way they can crack and break. Most likely not an issue in warmer climates but something to consider here in New England.

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James Redfield
LM #497

Sounds a bit high if doing it yourself. Home Depot currently has PT fence boards some going for .1 cent per board (clearance boards) others going for about $1.25 to $1.55? per board. The Pine of course-will be more expensive.

Thanks for the replys . And advice and ues may get the post dug

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Spin The Wheel

If replacing an old fence the hardest part is pulling or digging up the old posts. The rest is a piece of cake.

I struggled with digging out the old 4x4 treated posts until I found a youtube video using a jack and another piece of 4x4 bolted to the post. Then you just jack it out of the ground. So much easier. Of course, I only found it AFTER I had dug out half of the old posts.

My back still hurts.

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Or something like that . . .

Some good suggestions above. I would say that, depending on where you are in Florida, you can set the posts 30 inches deep without concrete, except for corners and gate posts. I would definitely use 16 foot nailers made out of full 2X4's, staggered, so that you are always catching more that 2 posts. Start with an 8 foot and 2 16's and run them. All posts and nailers should be treated, and gate posts should be 4X6's or 4X8's turned so the 4 inch side runs with the fence boards. Use only coated star or roberts head 3 inch screws on everything, and you will probably need some professional, or at least u-tube guidance on gate(s). I just had one built like this about 2 yrs ago, and it went through Irma with no issues.

i got some books from the library, n using daddy's old tools i built my own.
i hired some guys toset the posts n did the rest myself. it took me a long time but i found out it was fun.
i worked 90 minutes/day all thru the winter.
it let me be outside on nice but cold days because i was moving around so much.
i'd love to build another one.

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susie

i got some books from the library, n using daddy's old tools i built my own.
i hired some guys toset the posts n did the rest myself. it took me a long time but i found out it was fun.
i worked 90 minutes/day all thru the winter.
it let me be outside on nice but cold days because i was moving around so much.
i'd love to build another one.

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susie

Have you considered a natural barrier?
I chose Leyland Cypress (inexpensive/fast growing)
for easy installation and very low maintenance.
You could also research something native
with dense thorny impenetrable foliage.
I planted over sixty at a cost of two dollars apiece.
Well worth the growing time investment and catches
dust from the dirt road too.
The Leylands are evergreens so they work year round.

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