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Old 09-24-2017, 08:15 PM
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Jessie Jessie is offline
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Default A question for the bridging engineers

I have a creek to bridge with a footbridge only.
It is a 6' creek with an additional 4' of creek bank total on either side. ( 8' total ).
So there is 14' to bridge. I want to elevate the bridge a couple of feet for flooding which brings it to a 20' span.
I have 2- 21' telephone poles and enough 2x6" planks to cover 21'.
I only want a foot bridge. My planking consists of 6' 2x6".
Should I cut them to 3' 2x6" or 2' 2x6"?
I'm concerned that at 3' it will be too great of a span between the telephone poles. Which would be 2' with a 6" overhang.
Suggestions?
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Old 09-24-2017, 08:38 PM
Shark Bait Shark Bait is offline
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The 3' length should be fine. The ends should extend beyond the poles, so the unsupported portion will be less than 3'. Be sure to brace the ends of the poles well so they won't want to roll or move.

Concrete abutments at both ends of the span would keep the poles off the ground, which would help avoid rot.

Last edited by Shark Bait; 09-24-2017 at 08:41 PM.
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:06 PM
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I have a lot of rock piles that I plan to use for foundations and will drive 1/2" rebar into the 4 pole ends, bending them upstream.
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:23 PM
Shark Bait Shark Bait is offline
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I think you'll get more flex in the poles than the 2x6's. Sounds like a cool project.
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:46 PM
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If all you are doing is walking across it and not subjecting it to heavy loads, 3' should be fine. I once built a bridge across about a 12' wide creek in my back yard using two railroad rails (steel rails) and wood crossties laid crossways. I had access to both at that time. I also built a roof over it.

Last edited by DWalt; 09-24-2017 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:52 PM
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Covered bridges. That's beyond what I want to do...now.
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:59 PM
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2x6s spanning joists on 24" centers is the way I built quite a few decks over the years.Should be plenty strong at a 3' width with 6" overhangs
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Old 09-24-2017, 10:35 PM
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Default Add a 20' 2X6

A 20' 2X6 on edge in the center would help share thr load of the 2X6 planks.
This would lessen some of the 'bounce' and shorten the span to 12". The original plan will work for foot bridge though, but the center support will lengthen the life 5 years.
PS, lots os water seal will also lenghten the life span.
Post pics of cute ladies crossing when finished.
Have fun
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Old 09-24-2017, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jessie View Post
Covered bridges. That's beyond what I want to do...now.
The roof was just for appearance, I also built bench seats along each side. That creekbed was dry most of the year and was over 6' deep. I used to go down into it and shoot .22 pistol and rifle, the creek made a sharp turn about 25 yards beyond the bridge, and it made a good bullet trap. Anything bigger than a .22 made too much noise for the neighborhood. Fortunately, I was in an unincorporated area (at that time, over 30 years ago), no city codes, no cops, etc. My neighbors didn't mind my shooting the .22s and never objected. It's now part of Fort Worth, and I couldn't have done it today.
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Old 09-25-2017, 06:01 AM
Ivan the Butcher Ivan the Butcher is offline
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Sound like you are good on every thing except the anchoring of your pole ends! Depending on the creek's flow at spring flooding a few rebar aren't strong enough to hold your bridge in place when it becomes Tom & Huck's raft.

Several of the people I know left the bridge "loose" at the ends and let gravity hold it in place. If a flood took it away, well that's what homeowner's insurance is for! Others decided they wanted a bridge to withstand a 100 year flood, and went to more substantial materials.

My dad's bridge ended up being arched concrete spans with stone facing. Looked like something from the Middle Ages and will probably last as long!

Cost is just about everything; but you do get what you pay for.

Ivan
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Old 09-25-2017, 07:09 AM
WuzzFuzz WuzzFuzz is offline
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Jessie,

I'll have to post this in about 4 or 5 different posts to get all the photos attached. But this is what I did a few years back. Sounds like your project is very much the same as what I had done.

Both ends I had a bed of cement laid down to have the beams to rest on. The two ends posts were driven in, then attached to the beams. So it's not going anywhere.

Then you can see where the cross members were laid, then the other side posts screwed to the beams. Then the rest of the railings could be screwed into place. It's stout.!!!!

Every year I go thru some pretty heavy flooding back there. It's hasn't moved....

This is what I call ..."My bridge to now where".

It is enjoyable to go out on the bridge when the water is flowing, just a little...and watch and listen to the water underneath.

I had a couple of colored lights put in under the gazebo to that shine out and over the creek, and bridge, so in the evenings, it's pretty relaxing to go out into the gazebo and listen to the water, and enjoy the light effect.


Best wishes on your project.

WuzzFuzz.
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Old 09-25-2017, 07:12 AM
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Jessie,

post #2 more photos.

WuzzFuzz

.DSC00010.jpg

DSC00011.jpg

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Old 09-25-2017, 07:14 AM
WuzzFuzz WuzzFuzz is offline
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Here is more photos.

WuzzFuzz

.DSC00014.jpg

DSC00015.jpg

DSC00016.jpg

DSC00017.jpg
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Old 09-25-2017, 07:23 AM
WuzzFuzz WuzzFuzz is offline
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Jessie,

This is the last bunch. My bridge to nowhere is complete....The photos I sent before, are not in order of construction, but it should give you a idea of what I did...

OH, be sure to have some younger grunts, those with a strong back and a weak mind to do the heavy lifting...

These photos might give you a idea of what the finished product might look like....

Too, if you're using telephone poles instead of beams, you can still pretty much to it the same if you want. Originally I had telephone poles, but the cross planks finally gave out after about 30 years. But the poles withstood all those years.


WuzzFuzz

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Old 09-25-2017, 07:39 AM
WuzzFuzz WuzzFuzz is offline
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For my next project...


I'm thinking, I'm thinking!!!!!

.Aw Nuts.jpg


WuzzFuzz
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Old 09-25-2017, 07:47 AM
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That is one fine looking foot bridge! It looks very similar to what I will be doing but, without the stiles.
I'm also using recovered deck wood, so mine will never look as nice as that.
I will be using some small cedars for my hand rails since I have a few that need to come down anyways.

I, also am thinking of future projects..... another small cabin, dog trot/breezeway between the new and old cabin, small smoke house, shooting station with roof and two benches for long guns and another open one by the cabin for handguns only.
That should keep me busy for a couple of years.

Last edited by Jessie; 09-25-2017 at 07:52 AM.
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Old 09-25-2017, 08:33 AM
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Should work. Your vertical load is no problem. But you need to be sure your "piers" ( abutments ) are deep enough to avoid settlement and uplift, and to secure against the lateral pressure/horizontal load. And be sure to use timbers and lumber treated for a wet environment
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Old 09-25-2017, 12:16 PM
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You're in luck! I can give you a great deal on this one!!

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Old 09-25-2017, 10:18 PM
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One thing to consider and plan for is that the planks will be tangential to the poles so the contact surface between the planks and the circumference of the poles will be very narrow. You will need to secure the planks with sturdy enough fasteners to prevent them from dislodging.

Poorly fasted there is a good chance that over time as the bridge bears moving weight the planks will shift unless deeply and securely fastened. I would not use spikes. I would use counter sunk lag bolts right through the pole and fastened by bolts on the underside. Shouldn’t need more than one on each end of a plank. Also be sure to leave space between the planks for water run off and for expansion in hot weather.
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