Unfinished basement. Slight seepage in one corner area where the floor meets the wall. Not serious but annoying even though it drains into the sump. About a 6' line of seepage.

Flex Seal or Dry Loc fix?

If you intend on staying in your home for a while, fix the problem properly by waterproofing it from the outside. Yes, it's a huge pain in the Butt, but "Band-Aides' rarely work long term - at least that has been my experience.

Even if you used the Flex Seal and it stops the water from coming in that particular crack for a while, that does not mean water has stopped getting through the outside of the foundation. So in essence, you still have a problem waiting to find another crack.

Water leaks NEVER get better - only worse over time.

Dig & French drains is only sure fix. Water proofing is fine but
the water must be directed away from house.

Flex Seal only if you have a boat made from a screen door! Anybody actually tried this stuff?

OP...hope you can find a solution to the problem, I'm sure it is aggravating.

Make sure you get gutter downspout water away from the house. Lots of people let it empty a foot or two from the foundation, then they wonder why water gets in the basement. Get it away from the house by 8 feet or more.

I have used this stuff on my metal roof at camp.
Had some leakage around my chimney area. I caulked it tight then a nice barrier of flex seal over top of the caulked area.

Worked great for me and was pretty impressed how quick it dried considering it was raining all week.

As far as a basement I agree that either product would be a short term fix.

Flex seal works well for it's intended purposes. I used it to seal a leaky valley in a roof a couple years ago. It started leaking in December and I just wanted to get through the winter without having to put a new roof on. It stopped the leak until it was warm enough in May to reshingle, did it's job just fine.
I've got a couple spots where I've put Flex seal in my gutters where the seams were leaking, seems to work, no more leaking.
I ve Drylocked my basement walls, not because they leak but just to reduce dampness, I don't know if it works but I would be surprised if it sealed any kind of water leakage. Drylock is really just a thick paint.


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Getting the water away from the foundation is a good first step.

Any kind of coating applied to the inside surface of poured cement walls or walls made of cement blocks will just bubble and peel if there is moisture coming through the wall. You have to seal it up on the outside if you want a permanent fix.

When I was helping build cement block wall foundations in Anchorage, they waterproofed them by applying a heavy coating of tar, then covering that with a layer of heavy tar paper, then another coating of tar. They did all that before they backfilled the outside the foundation walls with dirt.

Mr bear took a bite out of my tractor seat. Actually just ripped it without removing any material. Put the torn piece in place and flex sealed it. The part they don't tell you is that you need to do 3 applications, and you have to wait 48 hours between each application. makes for a long project. I still get my butt wet every time I sit down.

__________________
Charlie

They are just bandaids - they cover the obvious leaks but force the water to find another path to follow to get into your basement. Patching the leak from the outside is the only way to truly fix the leak.

__________________
Bill

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Still Running Against the Wind

Anything you use to stop the water from getting in is just going to make the water look elsewhere to visit. I have seen where some have used UGL and Drylock to coat the walls to the point where it ended up soaking into the bottom framing members above. Basically it just turns the walls into containers which get filled up to the top.
If it bothers you but you don't want to block the water on the outside, drill a small "weephole" close to the bottom where it gets in, and channel it to the drainage leading to the sump hole. (assuming you have french drains leading to it)
Earlier post regarding downspouts being led farther from foundation was SPOT ON, btw. If the water doesn't collect in the soil near the walls, it's far less likely to invade.

Thanks for the comments.

In 1999, new drain tile was installed all around the house. Notice that the walls were tarred. 15-year warranty. I got an extra four years.

The downspouts feed into tiles which drain to the road lines.

Here's one of many fixes:

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^^^thumbs way up.

Maybe you could spray the stuff on yer butt?

(sorry, couldn't resist)

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