After reading so many good things on this site about Renissance wax, I decided to order a small container of it.
So what's the proper use for it?
Is it only for safe queens? What are the down sides of using it?
Should it only be used on firearms with glossy blue finishes, or can I use it on anything like matte blue or brushed stainless.
What else can I use it for?

I know, I know, a lot of questions for a simple product, but I figure others may wonder the same things.

Thanks

Oh God, the Seecampers love that stuff and Ezzox. Yes, I have a LWS 32 and never waxed it. I find that Ezzox or CLP provides a great protection. For a real shine I use Flitz . I must be honest, I hear great things about the wax but have never used it

http://www.restorationproduct.com/renwaxinfo.html

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Still Running Against the Wind

Ren wax maybe used on almost anything.. A little goes a long way... apply with your finger tip ( think spit shine ) sparingly let dry.. and buff with a very soft cloth.. ( Microfiber works well ) metal, blue or stainless.. any sort of wood grips.. it's the last thing that should be used.. Note..do not oil the weapon surface as it needs to be applied to a clean dry surface.. there is nothing like it..
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RENAISSANCE WAXis used in the following places in the U.S. - The Smithsonian Institute, Colonial Williamsburg Conservatory, Abraham Lincoln Residence, Vicksburg Military Park and Museum, Henry Ford Museum, Academy of Arts, Metropolitan Museum of Art, NRA Museum, Rockefeller Restorations, Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation, Hilton Hotels, BYU Museum of Art, National Ornamental Metals Museum, as well as other museums, government agencies, craftsmen, collectors both professional and amature alike.
In the United Kingdom it is used in the British Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum, Buckingham Palace, Military Museums at Aldershot, H.M. the Queens Royal Armourer, The National Museum of Antiquities - Scotland, Royal Armories (London & Leeds), The Imperial War Museum, Windsor Castle, and The Tower of London.

*http://www.epi.com/pages/renaissance-wax-renwax**

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SWCA #2306
DAV in honor of POP

I have used Renaissance on my K38 and it made a transformational improvement. I've also used it on some of my stainless weapons to remove some baked on stains.

Apply a very small amount and polish off with a clean cloth... and later buff for a high luster.

After the guns, I used it on my USMC officer's sword with great results as well.

Finally (HERE'S THE DOWNSIDE TO THE STUFF)... My wife was so impressed that she got me to polish the brass banister on the stairs with it. The brass had tarnished but came out like new... a lot of elbow grease on this project. The good news is that it's left protection that has lasted for eight months now.

For "shooter" guns I do not think it would be practical to use. As in the cleaning process and solvents used would remove the wax same as car wax. For storage or show pieces should be great.

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Still Running Against the Wind

I always wanted to know how to camp on water.
How do you do it?

Are they like the ocean going version of the Boy Scouts?

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Lost it all in a boat accident

Well I see you are from Georgia so I'll be kind

Boats my man Boats with little shiney Stainless Steel 32's and 380's for the "real men"

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Still Running Against the Wind

I use it on all my guns and rifles,I allso use it to wax my Harley,a little bit goes a long ways.

Dick

I have used the wax and the cleaner, both on the expensive side, but hey if it works........and it sure seems to, I like it a lot!

Used the cleaner to de-soil the guns, both blue and stainless, this actually gets a lot of any oils that are remaining in prep for the wax. Almost like a degreaser, but not as rowdy. Only thing is, I'm not 100% sure that the cleaner/preliminary is not slightly abrasive. I haven't used it enough times for anything to show yet, but I'm watching. I apply it to the frame under the stock to test.

I then use the wax of course, a little as stated earlier, goes a long way. I usually use a cleaning patch to apply in small circles, just like car wax........wax on, wax off. Let it dry, buff out. It really does shine up an old blued gun and will not leave fingerprints.

The only oil that I use now is to lube the normal wear spots, but not coat the entire gun as I used to.

As far as I'm concerned, there are no down sides as yet.

You mean not everyone waxes their Seecamp?

I use it on leather, especially good on carved leather, doesn’t seem to leave films in hard to buff areas.
I don’t think it ever leaves a really “just shined” look. That is, it doesn’t lend it self to the overdone look.

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Ipsis Rebus Dictantitbus

Do you think you could use it on sterling or silverplate?

Barb -

It is used by museums for anything from guns to paper, it won't leave residue on paper, quite a feat, to protect it.

I would assume that silver would be just fine. Just remember that a little goes a long way, it has some sort of molecular structure that allows it to spread, it's quite remarkable really.

There is a decent description for some of the things that it can perform on the paper that comes with it.

Perhaps try Gooling it and see if there is a better description?

I have never put Renaissance Wax on the few stainless pieces I have.
Flitz or Semichrome is all I have ever used on stainless, and sometimes use the Flitz on the blue guns too to shine them and get rid of hardly noticeable "surface rust" prior to using the wax.

I have always thought to polish stainless, not wax it. After all, Flitz and Semichrome both leave a protective covering after using. Other than a drop of grease on places that need to be lubed, what else is there to do?

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Lost it all in a boat accident

No not eveyone.

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Still Running Against the Wind

Does the wax have to be reapplied every time the gun is cleaned? If so I don't see much advantage over just wiping a blued gun down with a conventional oil.

Was wondering the same thing.

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Miss My Buddy crsides!!

Barb: It works fine on silver, but don't use on silverware you intend to use with food products. On the outside of a display Tea Set it works well. I do polish first with silver polish, then coat with Ren.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I use Break-Free to clean the exterior of my guns, and it seems it does NOT remove the wax.

The instructions said somewhere that kerosene based cleaners will remove it, don't know what else.

It is a God send for field guns. It can rain all over them, and it just beads off.

It improves the appearance of blued guns by a full 10% rating, at least. No finger prints, lint, dust, etc., sticking on the guns.

Do NOT wait a long time for it to dry, it'll be harder than a witch's heart. If it dries that way, simply reapply a small amount, and it softens immediately, then you can buff.

I've used it on so many things, my family dog looks at me suspiciously, as he thinks I may try it on him.

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NRA Instructor

Nice 32, but time for a tree 80.

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Sure you did

I like the cleaner and wax a lot. I'm a little afraid to use the cleaner on something like this, as I don't really know what kind of level of abrasives it has.

My 15-4, after Ren Wax.



A Lone Ranger first aid kit, after Ren Wax (kinda hard to tell from the pic, but it's got a nice shine to it now)

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Misty

I have a black Marauder with 92,000 miles on it. I had it out the other day and saw that little irritating whitish spot on the trunk where a bird must have crapped on it a few years ago and it was always a little oxidized-looking. So I rubbed a little Ren Wax on it, buffed it out, and it was like new again!

Then I ran around the car, buffing out the little white spots here & there. It's a little expensive to wax your car with, but for touching ups, it's great.

Has anyone here ever used Gun Butter to oil or lube there weapons ?

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S&W 1911ES
S&W M&P 9c

I started using Ren. Wax after reading much about it here a number of months back. Like many others I've used it on blued guns like my model 10 - it vastly improved the appearance of the bluing. It also worked well on my nickeled 22-4 since it imparts a fingerprint and fouling resistant quality to it. It especially works well on the Ahrends grips - it brings out the wood grain and gives them a slightly "grippier" feel.

Once you've used it on firearms, give it a try on other things like the silverware, antique clocks or as Barb said the car - it gives a subtle yet impressive sheen to all sorts of other things.

Does it keep polished stainless from finger printing?

Now that this thread is 10 years old…how has it held up?

Yes. my wife makes jewelry as a hobby and uses it there - it's where I first heard about it. Works great on many things. With most of the best museums using it to protect the items in their displays, it has a good track record

For you knife guys, it is great for knife blades.

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Super Snooper

Not ren wax but the Johnson’s paste wax in the yellow can. About $3 per can at the grocery store and one can has lasted me about 15 years. The really great advantage of waxing guns is how very easily they can be cleaned after shooting. And yes I wax it all: wood, stainless, plastic, alloy, blued, whatever.

I've used Ren-Wax on the oak table that we play cards on. I ran out of Johnson Wax so I used what I had. Works great

I like Johnson's paste wax also, makes a K frame shine like new money.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

I use it on any of my blued handguns; 27-2, Colt Python and a blued WC CQB. A little goes a long way.

I also use it on my guitars, including a 55 year old Epiphone.

My guns are in the safe in the basement where it’s cooler. I’ll warm the surface up a bit with a hair dryer before application. Goes on more even.

I have been using it for many years on guns, works great. I have also used it on old SW boxes, doesn't stain or alter the appearance but makes them look better, especially gold boxes.

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John. SWCA #1586

I also use it on all my swords and collection knives.

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Foster Positivity.

Here's my 1966 19-2, before and after.

I "polished" it first with Flitz and one of their microfiber polishing cloths and repeated the procedure with Renaissance Wax.

The two together impress me every time I use them.

I can't remember reading a post from a member who has had a bad or unsatisfactory experience with Renaissance Wax.

During my twenty years of service in the United States Marine Corps we were always taught to finish our weapons cleaning with a light coat of oil. Now, I remove any oil from the cleaning stage using isopropyl alcohol, then I apply Renaissance Wax and lightly polish with a soft cotton cloth. I also apply a small amount of wax on the underside of the grips (stocks) where the stocks contact the metal.

The results for the past eight years has been outstanding. No rust anywhere, and I continuously check closely, just as my drill instructors taught us.

"Renaissance Wax is a brand of microcrystalline wax polish used in antique restoration and museum conservation. Most safely used to polish and conserve metal objects, it is also used on gemstones and such organic materials wood, ivory, and tortoiseshell." Johnson's paste wax has a petroleum base. Both are great products for all of your firearms and accessories.

Bill

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That's what we do!

Carried a 4 inch model 19 for the DPS. Used Birchwood Casey gun stock was on the metal. Same shine as ren wax. Try it.

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Who are those guys?

First good laugh this morning. Thank you.