Read many post about polishing/sanding etc..
I have a beaten up M686 with several Gouges, Scuffs, abrasions etc. Some are deep too..
I've got alot of time on my hands temporalily & already have the frame stripped down.
Got 600, 800, 1000, 1500 grit silica carbide sandpaper..
I've got Green, Grey, & White Scotch brite pads..
Also have Flitz & Mothers Polish.. also have some of the red dremel rouge, two small tubs of it..
I also have a Polishing bonnet on an old drill & have a Dremel tool.. Also have LOTS of Elbow Grease & a couple of old cotton white T-Shirts..
What would those out there recomend to start with with the deep gouges, the worst are on the sideplate near the three sideplate screws & on the other side near the flame lug..
Don't realy know YET if I'm gonna go for a Chromed up polish or the Matte Factory type Brushed finish??
It's Gonna happen & start within the next few days..
We have a Stainless revolver, Lots of Time & just about any item needed to acomplish this task..
What say ye?? What should I start on the gouges with & then work up to the "Smooth" Finish with??
How to blend these gouges into the existing more smooth area & should I sand the entire frame, barrel, cylinder, yolk??
Give your advise PLEASE..
Thanks Alot!! & Happy Polishing!!
Gary/Hk

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MightShowYouHisSmith&Wesson

Hey Gary,
If they are real deep you may not get them out. Take 400 and a flat surface (Kitchen Table) and work on the side plate, sand paper on table and plate on top of it, then go to the 600 and move up from there. A picture would help alot on what to do to it. Just don't use a disc or anything like that on it.

Start with the gouged areas. Using small, flat files (swiss files or tool and die maker's files) and stones, carefully file the gouged area to bring it almost level with the surrounding area. You want to work slowly and carefully here. No rushing.

If the gouge is on a single curved surface, say the outside of the trigger guard, work the gouge and blend it in with the curves. Double or compound curves are more difficult, but with care, you can blend them in too. Don't worry about file marks. Avoid filing on roll marks and stamping.

Work with the coarsest (400 or 600) abrasive paper backed with a flat wooden paint stirring stick or popsile sticks. Try to preserve flat surfaces and true edges. This takes care and patience to work through the finer grits until you get to the abrasive pads. Each time the surface is brought up to a polish, the finer scratches from previous polishing will show. Repeat with the finer abrasive paper and go over it with the abrasive pad again. Again, minimize the sanding of roll marks and stampings. You should avoid using any powered tools like Dremel or buffer. Hand polishing is the key to getting true surfaces here.

The beauty of working with stainless steel is that there is no finish ON the steel like bluing, black oxide, or plating. The steel IS the finish, and how carefully you polish and preserve details is what you will get back in the final product.

You may want to blast it instead of polishing it. Completely different finish of course but often blasting does a better job of hiding imperfections than polish. If you've got deep gouges sand may do a better job than glass beads.

If all else fails you could allways use brownells gun kote in matt stainless. helps to fill in the gouges and even out the surface.

Well I've been spending all my spare time sanding the 686 with 1500 grit & still find spots that can't be sanded out & have moved on to the grey & white scotch brite pads..
I haven't yet broke the Flitz or Mother's out for the final polish but am going for the "Factory" Matte Brushed finish as my poor tired fingers are about worn out..
My Index/Trigger Finger feels like it's broken & both thumbs are sore..
I was able to remove alot of the flaws & make several others "almost" unnoticeable..
I've got plenty of time & have all the "Inerds" in a magnetic parts tray & was planning to spray the frame out with some Gunscrubber after the polish & wax of the frame..
Gary aka Sore Thumbs

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MightShowYouHisSmith&Wesson

keep at it gary...sounds like it will look nice!

It turned out looking pretty fine..
There were a few marks & scratches that wouldn't come out but I expected that..
I was trying for mostly a factory finish but it realy turned out better than I expected..
Probobly spent 12 hours total on the gun includeing complete teardown, sanding, scotch briteing & polishing with mothers plus cleaning & reassembly, I just finished it up tonight about 2:00am.
I'll try an get some decent pics tomarow outside..
It realy is a finger print magnet now..
I coated it with some Dunlop Bodyglass 65 Cream of Carnauba..
This is a Top of the Line Guitar Polish/Wax that seals, is smudge resistant with a moisture & stain resistant barrier..
Works better than anything I've ever tried & if it's Good Enough for My Gibson it's good enough for my S&Ws too..
4oz cost about $6..
After the wax it's not as bad to handle but still needs a micro fiber towel.. Bling Bling Yo..
Pics To Came ASAP
Gary aka "Sore Fingers"

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MightShowYouHisSmith&Wesson

Here's a few pics I just took outside on an overcast day of the 686 after the polish job..
It looks MUCH better in person..
I need a new camera but this gives a good idea of what She looks like now.. You gotta love Stainless Steel..
Gary/Hk

Smith & Wesson Model 686

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MightShowYouHisSmith&Wesson

that is a very handsome revolver very handsome

Looking good!!!!

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Andy

I ruined the first two pics trying to make them look better..
It realy looks good & takes looking at more than a couple of minutes to see any spots..
If any of you were looking at it @ a gunshow you'd buy it..
Also NOTE: The Trigger Overtravel Stop That I aquired from VM..
Gary/Hk

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MightShowYouHisSmith&Wesson