I took my little .32 2nd Model 5th Change out for some casual plinking this weekend (I just aquired this revolver and was the first time shooting it). I was quite impressed with the accuracy with either the .32 Longs or the .32 S&W shells I was shooting. I did have a couple of issues I'd like some input on from you guys. I had 3 brands of ammo-Federal .32 Long round nose, Fiocchi .32 Long Wadcutters and Magtech .32 S&W. With the Federal ammo I found some of the cases had splits in them after being fired but there was no indication of excessive pressure nor side spitting of lead(these are factory loads) the gun is not out of time and locks up correctly if you fire it in single or double action. I've saved the cases and may send them back to Federal for inspection--I've never had this type of ammo issue with factory or reloads. After about 100 rounds once in a while the hammer and trigger would completely lock up-you could not cock the gun nor squeeze the trigger. You could open the cylinder freely. I sprayed some gun lubricant into any area I could and after that it worked ok--but every so often it would lock up again.

Obviously this should not happen to a functioning gun but I wonder if there could be something broken inside? Or do you guys think the gun is just somewhat gummed up after all these years? I have never taken the a sideplate off of a revolver so if I do this are there springs that are going to come flying out or can I take the plate off to clean things?

When I acquire a used S&W revolver, part of the initiation is a complete takedown and a thorough cleaning. The first important part is to have the correct screwdrivers. The hollow ground type that will fit completely into the screw slot and not wider than the screw head or the sideplate can be circle scored around the screw hole.

Sometimes with an older revolver that has not had the sideplate removed, it can be a tad stubborn to break the screws loose. Be patient, be careful. A small amount of time spent may just save some damage.

My pre 27, 5" was tough to break the screws loose. I inserted a smaller hollow ground screw driver bit, than I'd normally use, and carefully gave it a slight tap with a hammer. Don't use a screw driver bit that is too thick for the slot or it'll spread the slot and booger-up the screw head. With the correct size screwdriver bit, tighten the screw slightly, then apply pressure the other way. Work this around for a bit and she'll come loose without any damage.

I strip the revolver down and lay the parts on a cotton rag inside a plastic type tub. Outfitted with rubber gloves I spray the parts down with a good carburator cleaner in an aersol can. Wash good with solvent, blow out some of the parts with those computer aersol compressed air cans with the nozzle, pre-lubricate a tad, reassemble and sparingly lubricate and wipe off the excess. Finish off with a good wax. Johnson's or Min Wax.

The cases should not be splitting. I would measure the charge holes to see if they're within tolerances. May just be a bad batch of casings??

Regards:
Rod

Should be no springs popping out when you remove the sideplate.
Follow the guidance for removing the screws. Then, take off the
grips, and tap the grip frame with a piece of wood. That sets up a
vibration, and loosens the side plate.

Once its off, and you don't want to take it further apart, get a can of
Bore Cleaner, and spray it well. That stuff is something like freon,and
it boils at room temperature, loosening dirt and grit, and washing it
out. After its all evaporated, spray some good gun oil in it,and then
let it drain out for a few hours.

This is not the ideal way clean a gun, but it does get it clean, and oiled - perhaps a bit too much oiled ! Letting it drain, and wiping the excess off wherever possible, will suffice.

Later, Mike Priwer

thank you so much guys. I was quite suprised by the Federal cases doing that as the Magtech or the Fiocchi had no issues. I have to admit this is one fun little pea shooter and up to 50 yards we were having no problem hitting aluminum cans and other targets even with the .32 S&W ammo.

As to screw drivers maybe I should invest in a real set of gunsmith style screwdrivers instead of whats out in the toolbox in the garage--the last thing I want to do is booger up screws.

Hello Seattle
I have had Federal brass split as well and most recently, some of their Federal .327 Magnum brass. I feel federal brass is very hard and Brittle and this may be what causes that rather than a Problem with your gun, I wouldn't be too alarmed unless other Case brands start splitting as well. I Have found Remington brass to be very soft and flow the most from Hotter loads, but it almost never splits from pressure. A good choice for Gun smith screw drivers is the set sold by B-Square. It comes with a Ton of Bit's and they are nicely finished, hard, and fit the screws tightly. I paid $25.00 is all for mine at a Gun show, but suspect they can be purchashed cheaper on Line. You will be very Please with it should you get one the tip's are magnetic and fit tightly...Hammerdown

thanks Hammerdown--i'll definately get the drivers like you suggest.

Hello Seattle29
You are very welcome. I am sure there are more elaborate Gun smith screw driver set's out there, but I have found the B-Square ones to work just fine...