Hello All,

I'm new to the forum and pretty new to S&W revolvers so sorry if this becomes sort of a repeat of older threads. I own a 686-6 4" right now that I carry and am looking for a J-frame for pocket carry or BUG. I'm looking for opinions from owners on models like the 640, 60, 642, 442 and possibly even the 340s if I could find a steal. I'm looking to find out from 640 and 60 owners if these are too big to pocket carry. I'd like to stick with .357 just because I'd rather not have to worry about 2 different types of ammo to carry daily. However, I wouldn't pass up a good deal on a .38+P gun if it presents itself. Therefore I'm looking for some estimates on reasonable used values for all guns mentioned, I'm going to do some pawnshop and local gun store hunting to try to find a deal, being young can't afford to pay too much. Any input is welcomed and appreciated.

Hi, and welcome. Of the models mentioned, you will probably find the 60, 442 and 642 at the $350 range (used), the 640 a little higher. You didn't mention if you carry your 686 and a ton of other gear on a belt. A steel-framed J plus ammo adds to your burden significantly, and any small .357 will be expensive and loud. I would opt for an alloy J frame like a 38/638 or a 642; an older model 37 would be even less expensive. These will handle +P just fine. Good luck in your search.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Howdy,

I don't think that you can go wrong with any of the stainless J frames. I am especially fond of my 640's, they handle the 357 rounds well and are suitable for pocket carry. The 640 can be had used for around $500 here in San Antonio. I have the no-lock versions and they have a really smooth trigger pull. If you want ultra light pocket carry with 357 punch, then I would recommend the 340. While the 340 is great in the front pocket, it is quite a hand full at the range, I regularly shoot 38 specials for practice and 5-10 of the magnum loads, as it can be quite harsh. If you don't mind 38 special +p and need to save some cash, there are many 442's and 642's floating around used for anywhere from $350-$450...bear in mind, that a new 442 no-lock model can be had for about $450 new at most dealers - the one's with the laser grips are about $200 higher.

Good luck in your search. If you are close to me, I would not mind you test driving some of mine to see what they are all about.

I find the stainless j frames a little much for pocket carry...but my 642 does better ...I do want a 60 ...

I think the Model 642 or 442 Airweight make the best pocket carry revolvers next to finding a 342Ti or similar Airlite..
You can find a few deals sometimes on these if you keep your eyes peeled & are ready to pounce when one comes available..
I saw a MINT 642 No Dash, Just like mine, a few weeks ago for $400 & IMO someone got a great carry piece..
Good Luck Finding one that suits your needs, BTW if you buy the heavier 640 or 60 you won't pocket carry it as much as you would a Airweight or Airlite.. The Airweight can be carried in a lightweight pair of shorts just as easily as a pair of dockers or jeans..
The right pair of antisnag boot grips is also a must have otherwise it'll be too large to carry comfortably..
Nowdays I only pocket carry my 642, I have a 940 & a Glock 19 but they never leave the house except to go to the range..
Gary/Hk

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MightShowYouHisSmith&Wesson

Note not all mod 60's are 357. Only the newer J mag framed 60's. Additionally, the hammer spur makes pocket carry a PITA. Either plan on bobbing the hammer or getting another style. Personally I think the aloy framed 38's w concealed /shrouded hammer is the better choice.

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Dave

I'm with the 442/642 crowd. Load em' with Speer Gold Dot +P's and you're good to go.

I recommend the 442. It is light enough to pocket carry, and not having an exposed hammer makes it really easy to draw from the pants pocket. When I shoot 357's from my scandium J frame, it's quite brutal on the hand. When I shoot 38+P's from my 442, it's just plain fun to shoot. I prefer the 442 over the 642 just because I like the black finish. I shoot Speer 135 grain 38+P short barrel rounds. They do well in gel tests and on the street. Hope this helps.

I have three J frames - two have all steel parts and one has an aluminum frame (the 642 on the right). I think that only the aluminum frame model, weighing about 15 ounces empty, is light enough for pocket carry. The all steel J frames weigh about 20 ounces and cause my pockets to sag a bit. They are better suited for some type of belt carry. The internal hammer of the 642 is also well suited to pocket carry.

Thanks for all the response so far. As with the 686 I only carry it and a speed strip reload for it right now on a belt and I don't find it cumbersome at all.

I wish I was closer to San Antonio but school starts back up and I'm heading back to College Station. Thanks for the price information.

I was worried about the weight of the stainless guns, but I do carry a ton of stuff in my pockets so I might be able to stand it, I'm young and dumb. I'll finally be back to a place with some gun stores tomorrow so hopefully I can talk a gun store owner into letting me handle a few and possibly slipping one into my pocket to actually feel the weight.

With the model 60 yes, I would get the hammer bobbed but I wasn't sure on how much that would cost, might be more than what it's worth.

With the 642/442 Aluminum alloy what is the care for those? Similar to stainless, easier, or harder? I'm looking for something to be able to withstand some abuse and to go boom anytime I pull the trigger.

Try Champion Firearms in College Station. They have an indoor range and may allow you to try out a used gun that you are considering buying.

Gig'Em.

I strongly recommend the Centennials, I.E. the steel 640 or aluminum framed 442 or 642 .38s. The scandium 340 series is a super light revolver, but pretty expensive. I paid $740 for one in December. I'd go with the 642. It's cheaper and won't be a problem to maintain. You'd be surprised to know how many long time serious gun carriers have at least one Centennial.

I love my 442. The finish is wonderful, and holds up better that my parkerized 1911. Great gun that is accurate, if you practice, and will go bang every time.

20 shots offhand at 25 feet-


Isn't the frame aluminum, but the barrel and cylinder stainless steel?

I love my 640 stainless. I consider it a little heavy for pocket carry, but it could be done in a "have to" situation.

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otis

I am planning on going to Champion Firearms tomorrow to handle a few of the centennials if they've got them. I've kind of narrowed it down to either the 640, 442 or 642. It's now getting to handle them and finding a good price.

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Mark

My personal rule for pocket carry is under 16 oz it is a pocket gun(in the appropriate holster), over that it is a belt gun. Exceptions for winter coat pockets, vests, BDU pockets and web gear hung weapons. My favorite BUG is a 940-mainly because of my addiction to the Browning HP-one can reload the 940 from a BHP(or most other 9mm) magazine. For a .38 special, hands down a 442, does not relfect, and can be carried just about anywhere, I use the off hand pocket with a good pocket holster, of course I train shooting with either hand. Got so that I am better with my off hand with the 442 than I am with the strong hand. The 37-2 is nice also.

If you are set on staying with the .357Mag, the easiest way to say it is that a 640 will shoot much better than a 340 because of the weight, the 640 will absorb most of the recoil. The other side is that since it is a back up/pocket gun, the 340 will carry much better than a 640 because of the weight.

If you are recoil sensitive stick with the heavy guns. If you can handle the recoil get the 340 and don't look back.

Well I finally got to handle both the Airweights 642/442 and the 640. There was a noticeable difference in weight between the two, and in price. Champion Firearms finally has redeemed themselves a little bit, was a little put off with them the last time I went when I was asking for concealment grips for my 686-6 4" and the salesperson laughed at the possibility of concealing it, little did he know I was carrying it at the moment. They're wanting $437 for the the 642/442 without CT lasergrips and $644 with the CTs. Seems like a good deal, but it's the older models still with the IL, wonder if I can talk them into ordering me one without the lock. Also, those with these do y'all have the regular boot grips or CTs on them? I'm probably going to stick with the 642/442 now just because the LIGHT weight and the price, don't want to break the bank

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Mark

.38 plus P's will fit either gun. If they're both .357s, almost no thought process required. I have two .357s, a model 38 and a 642. The 642 gets carried all the time.

I carry a 642 in a Uncle Mikes sidekick front pocket holster,looks like your carrying a cell phone. Also carries well in my Tague OWB holster.
Good luck.

I like my 642 as on-duty backup and hot weather off duty carry. I like the [lack of] weight and "hammerless" configuration. Won't snag on presentation from my Desantis Nemesis pocket holster in my left front trouser pocket.

Lots of improvement in .38 spl. ammo in the past few years. I carry Speer Gold Dot, Short Barrel, 135 gr. +P and do not feel under-gunned. I always carry at least one reload in either speed strip or speed loader.

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Retired Police, Life NRA

Something to consider beyond carry weight - shootability. I've always preferred the all-steel J's simply because I shoot my CCW's regularly with handload equivalents of my factory carry ammo. The slightly heavier steel guns will help in recoil control compared to the Airweights. You'll be less fatigued at the end of a range session, thus getting the most from your practice. I'm also of the opinion that the steel guns will hold up better over time.

I would never use an IL-equipped revolver for personal defense if at all possible. IMO there are too many perfectly good pre-locks out there to gamble. As an example, just this past weekend I purchased a Model 649 No Dash for $379. It was a police trade-in. Other than some scratches and nicks, the little five-shooter is as good as the day it left the factory. And there's no worry about an IL failure.

I'd strongly suggest one of the new 442's w/o IL if weight was the paramount issue.

Up until now I've used just about every conventional grip package on my several J-frames over the years. My favorite has been the Uncle Mike's/Butler Creek Boot Grips. Second place goes to the factory splinter wood panels combined with a Tyler T-grip. But time moves forward and so does technology. The CT laser grips look like a serious improvement in practical accuracy with little to no penalty in concealment. More than likely I will buy a set soon.

I pocket carried a 2" M64 all one summer in a Mika pocket holster wearing cargo shorts with a good belt. Worked just fine.

With that being said, I'm sold on the Airweight J frames and that's what I use now.

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Centennial Every Day

Mark, you might try Shooters of Jacksonville at Small Frame (J) . They have new 642 (without CT grips) for $429.99, plus $21 shipping. And, at gunbroker.com, you can enter your ZIP code and see a list of FFLs in College Station and how much they charge to transfer. Should be able to find one for $25, or less. "Shooters..." ships in a hurry. I bought a 642 there a couple months ago and had it in hand in 4 days...and that was over a weekend.

I pocket carry mine in an Uncle Mike's and it does great!

34tartex thanks for the website, pretty good prices, and I don't have to worry about FFL costs because a good friend has his and doesn't charge me to transfer. Also I found a 640 around for $450, NO lock, but no clue on the condition. Would I be crazy for grabbing the 640 and trying my luck with it and pocket carrying it or better off buying a new 442/642 without the lock. Any opinions?

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Mark

I wish I had more experience to help - I 'stole' a 640-1 no lock this week and just shot it yesterday. It doesn't feel heavy but I'm sure in comparison to a 642/442 it would just a bit. 357 was very managable in it, however. I need new grips before I carry. I really like having the option for 38 or 357 (I have a Model 66 as well).

I think I'll eventually round out with a 442, just to have one for shorts / t-shirt / flip-flop wx when ultra low weight is key.

- Rhino

I pocket carry my 640 from time to time, and I used to carry it before I had the 340...it is a noticeable difference, but with decent pair of Levi's, and Uncle Mike's pocket holster ($15), nobody ever noticed. $450 is a pretty good deal on the 640 around these parts, and it is pretty nearly indestructible.

Good luck.

Looks like you already got some feedback about buying the 640. I can't add anymore to what has already been written except to say that the weight difference between the two guns is exactly 1/2 pound, making the 640 over 65% heavier than the 642. Additionally, maybe it's just me, but I almost never buy anything used if I can afford to buy a new one...unless I know and explicitly trust the seller.

Weight is a subjective thing. I can carry my 2" 940 (which I believe is the heaviest 2" J Frame ever made) in a pocket holster and not mind the weight. But it's a good idea to have a belt when doing this.

I am also a big fan of my 60-7 and sometimes carry it in sweatpants with no belt. This will not work with the 940.

You do not need to pay a gunsmith to bob the hammer. You can do that yourself with a Dremel and a cutoff wheel. It's a very simple thing to do, as long as you know how to take the hammer out of the gun.

Dave Sinko

Would any of us notice if we lost .5 lbs. in body weight? As 34tartex noted, that's the difference between an Airweight M642 and an all-steel M640. Not really significant when you consider the all-steel gun is easier to shoot and will last longer under regular practice with +P carry ammo.

Here's another analogy. Have you ever walked out of the house and not noticed you forgot to pocket your cell phone, pocket knife or decent sized key set? For many phones that's a close approximation of difference between a 642 vs. 640. The difference really isn't that much.

Just bought another 642 yesterday. It's my third. My other two are on "loan" to my wife and dad. I don't think I be getting them back.

Keep it loaded with Corbon DPX. 110gr at 1050fps. It's a good load.

I came very close to buying a 340PD 357. But after I shot one and felt the recoil, I passed. Plus I saved over $500 by going with the 642.

Either way you go the J frame is a great carry or back up gun.

Whoa! I didn't mean to stir up a hornet's nest. Obviously, BillLester prefers all-steel over the Airweights...and that's fine. "Different strokes for different folks." Personally, I'm not locked in to one or the other but was simply telling mmunsch the exact difference in weight between the 640 and 642. And, I agree with BillL that none of us really would notice if we lost .5 lbs. in total body weight, but I think I would certainly be aware of that half-pound difference in my pocket.

I believe on the 642 the cylinder and barrel are stainless steel. I just purchased a 442 to carry in August when it's 100 in the shade and I'm wearing only a pair of shorts. The 442 has a carbon steel cylinder and barrel, matte black. It weighs NOTHING. I'm carrying Federal hydra shock 115 gr jhp in mine which are supposedly less recoil. Everyone needs a small pocket revolver !

No hornets here. Yes we have a differing opinion in this matter and we're providing the pros and cons of those opinions to the OP. That's what a discussion is about. Perhaps you misunderstood why I quoted you earlier. It was a tip o' the hat for providing information germane to the subject. No malice was intended nor should be inferred.

Now back to the discussion. It's reasonable to think you'd notice a 1/2 lb. difference, I certainly did when I carried a M37 for a while. But IMO the price paid in shootability and long-term durability negated the weight loss compared to the M640 that replaced it.

I have the stainless model 649 and the alloy 638. The 638 is easier to pocket carry, the 649 not so easy -but, the stainless guns are MUCH easier to shoot well. You will probably end up with both in time. Good luck!

Thanks for all the responses. From what I've read I've decided on an Airweight for the ease and lightweight carry. Now my question is do I go with the 442/642 .38+P or do I spend the extra money on the M&P 340? Anyone with the 340 is it worth the extra money to shoot .357. I'm a person who likes to buy the right thing the first time, don't want to save money at first purchasing the 442/642 if later I'm going to end up purchasing the 340. Also anyone on the CT grips, like them, love them, hate them, any comments are welcome.

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Mark

The only reason that I would get a 340 is because of the interchangeable front sight. They is just a small reason, otherwise go with a 442/642 and save the money for practice ammo and enjoy.

I carry my 340sc daily (when I can't wear enough clothes to cover a 1911 or sig p226). I choose the 340 because it would shoot the 357 mag loads and the weight savings was a bonus, also you save 1/4 inch in barrel length over the 640. The Double Tap Ammo 125 grain Bonded Defense (Gold Dot Bullet, I believe) is traveling 1425 feet per second out of the 1 7/8 barrel of the 340 versus the 38 +p @ 800-900 fps. I probably will not notice the recoil, if used for a self defense purpose, but range time is somewhat limited to 10 rounds per session. I practice with the 38special 130 gr RNL, rather than take a beating with magnum loads. I do run 10 or or more magnum loads at the end of the session so that I am not surprised by the difference in recoil.

As for grips....I still use the Hogue Bantam grips that came from the factory, but I hear that the Crimson Trace grips are wider, they cover the back strap, and absorb some recoil that the Hogues do not. I may have to try some of those some day.