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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 02-08-2010, 04:27 PM
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Default 686SSR or 627?

Relatively new to S&W. I have a 60 Pro model which I like a lot but is a little snappy with 357s so thinking of getting a bigger brother in medium frame (K?). The only difference that I can see is that the 686 is 6 rds vs 8 for the 627 - well, the 686 also has wood grips and a few oz lighter - but is that it?

Also, were these available pre-lock? Since spending some time here, I am really interested in pre-locks if available (i.e. if I can find one) if only because I hate how the lock looks

Which would you get (considering just these 2) and why?
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Old 02-08-2010, 05:30 PM
handgunner356 handgunner356 is offline
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The SSR and Pro series guns are all IL models. If you really are set againest the lock then you probably would be better to look at the earlier 686s' in both 6 and 7 shot versions. The 686 is a "L-Frame" and can easily handle any .357 rounds out there. There are some early 6-shot 627s' and some of the very first 8-shot guns don't have the lock, but they are bringing a premium price when found. I have both 686 and 627 guns in 6" and can't tell any differance in recoil between the two guns. I also have one of the new 3" 686s' and must say it has the best out-of-the-box triggers I've found on a new gun, the IL is really a non-issue with me.
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Old 02-08-2010, 05:56 PM
K1500 K1500 is offline
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I'm not really a big .357 guy, so I don't pay that much attention to them, but I am pretty certain that the 686 is an L frame and the 627 is an N frame. I'm sure others will chime in and verify.

If that's the case, they are two different animals. The N frame gun is bigger, heavier, holds more rounds and may be a bit more pleasant to shoot. It will also be harder to conceal. The L frame gun will carry and conceal a bit better. You really need to feel both to judge. If you can't find a 627, a 629 in 44 magnum will be similar enough to judge. I like N frames, so I would go for the capacity of the 627. Others love the L, so it's a personal thing.
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K1500 View Post
the 686 is an L frame and the 627 is an N frame. I'm sure others will chime in and verify.
K1500 is correct. 686 = L-frame, 627 = N-frame.

I have a 386 (also L-frame) and a 28 (N-frame). As to which one I prefer - it depends on what I am doing that day.

If I am going to the range - N-frame all the way, baby. Makes .38 rounds feel like a .22LR (except for noise and muzzle flash).

If I have to carry it on my body all day - I'll take the L-frame, especially given that mine is a Sc/Al alloy frame and weighs in at about 24 oz. vs. 42 oz. for the steel N-frame. But it's not fun to shoot...
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:19 PM
handgunner356 handgunner356 is offline
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But if you compare the regular stainless either a 4" or 6" L-Frame to the N-Frame you are only talking 2oz. or less, same length, 1/4" more height from the topstrap down to the bottom of the trigger guard. The cylinder is only 1/8" bigger in the N-Frame so if a person can carry a "L" it wouldn't be a big jump to carry the "N". What I'm saying between shooting a 4" 686 and a 4" 627 one gun is not going to feel that much different from the other.
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Old 02-08-2010, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by handgunner356 View Post
What I'm saying between shooting a 4" 686 and a 4" 627 one gun is not going to feel that much different from the other.
Not true. All depends on the size of one's hand. Most shooters with small hands find N-frame guns less controllable/comfortable than L-frame guns. Overall weight or cylinder diameter differences are not a grave concern to me (or most other shooters); grip size is.
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Old 02-09-2010, 02:23 AM
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My 1st revolver was the 4" 686. I find it a great L(medium) Frame handgun. I also bought a 6" 686, then a 5" 627. I still have the 4" 686 and the 5" 627. I have no intention of ever getting rid of the 686, I really like it. However I shoot the 627 fifty times as much. If I could only have 1, it would be the 627, maybe because it is PC gun. However the 8 shot moon clip I find so much easier to reload.
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:03 AM
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First, the gripframes are very similar between an N and L frame. The Hogue X-frame monogrip made exclusively for S&W's .460/.500 Magnum also fits the K, L, & N roundbutt frames, so you know they are all very similar in width and outside dimensions. The Ahrends wood stocks appear to be the same external dimension, for example. Below you will see my one 686+, actually a 5" half lug, which came with the Ahrends grips and HiViz sight. The N-frame 4" 627 Pro came with Goodyears - the Ahrends Retro Targets were added - and the HiViz, which took seconds due to the spring-loaded front sight base. It is also moonclip ready, has a target barrel and muzzle, and came with a modicum of a trigger job (Like the 686SSR.). It is well worth it's minor cost difference over a standard 686, much less that of the similar priced 686SSR - whose included wood grips were most uncomfortable to me.



The 627 Pro has hogged the range bag since I bought it 5/08 - the 5" 686+ has cobwebs on it! I feel, although their weight is similar, the 4" 627 Pro really points better - and that was sporting the same fg-ed sq conversion cocobolo Ahrends, actually borrowed from my 625MG. The Retro Targets are perfect - it points even better - to me (medium+ hands). I'd consider the 4" 627 Pro over the 686SSR - they are the same price. There is <3 oz difference in their weight, too.

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Last edited by Stainz; 02-09-2010 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:07 AM
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I have a standard 686+ 4" and a 627 Pro 4". The Pro actually feels a little better balanced to me than the 686. You can't go far wrong with either one, but my current favorite is the 627. May be due to the Pro being newer and not having shot it as much as the 686. The moon clip feature of the 627 is a real plus to me, as is the interchangeable front sight.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:23 AM
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I have the 686 SSR. The double action is nice out of the box. I did a trigger job on it anyway and put in a Wilson spring kit. It is now even better double and single action...in fact it is great. Like Stainz said the grips on the SSR are not good. My hand size must be similar to his. I will be putting a set of Ahrends tactical finger grove on them. The SSR comes with forged hammer and trigger. I will also be changing out the front site with a HiViz. I bought the SSR for IDPA but have yet to use it for such.
I have a 327 M&P R8. Did a trigger job on it as well. It is very accurate and fun. I really like the 8 shots and the moon clips. If I had to choose I would pick the 327 R8.
Both of these I consider to be range guns. For concealment I have other options. I sometimes carry a 3" 686 7 shot or a N frame 327 Night Guard. Both conceal and carry very well.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by handgunner356 View Post
you are only talking 2oz. or less...if a person can carry a "L" it wouldn't be a big jump to carry the "N".
I agree, which is why I like N frames. If you really want a reduction in weight, the previously mentioned 327pd is significantly lighter than any of the revolvers mentioned in this thread, with a weight nearly the same as your M60. Of course, it recoils more than the all stainless guns.
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Tags
22lr, 327, 44 magnum, 627, 627s, 629, 686, ahrends, cocobolo, hiviz, hogue, idpa, l frame, lock, m60, model 60, n-frame, sig arms, tactical


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