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  #1  
Old 02-16-2010, 12:19 AM
special44 special44 is offline
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Default Bent hammer stud on M24-3

Who could do the best job of replacing a bent hammer stud and re-case coloring the right side of the hammer, where it has rubbed the inside of the frame. What might the approximate cost be ?
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Old 02-16-2010, 12:35 AM
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Sounds like a trip back to the factory. The stud should be replaced, I don't think you will be able to straighten it.
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Old 02-16-2010, 01:38 AM
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S&W is the only place to have this done. The frame will have to be refinished too.

If the only reason you believe it is bent then get some hammer stud bearings from Brownell's and shim the hammer away from the side that is dragging. If the hammer finish really bothers you then order a replacement hammer too, it will be cheaper than re-finishing, and what S&W will probably do instead of re color case-hardening yours.

And, straightening a hammer stud that is only a few thousandths out of true is easily done, by someone who knows what they are doing! Even if the stud is perfectly straight the hammer can still rub the frame.

Last edited by Alk8944; 02-16-2010 at 01:41 AM.
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:59 PM
jonbondave jonbondave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alk8944 View Post
S&W is the only place to have this done. The frame will have to be refinished too.

If the only reason you believe it is bent then get some hammer stud bearings from Brownell's and shim the hammer away from the side that is dragging. If the hammer finish really bothers you then order a replacement hammer too, it will be cheaper than re-finishing, and what S&W will probably do instead of re color case-hardening yours.

And, straightening a hammer stud that is only a few thousandths out of true is easily done, by someone who knows what they are doing! Even if the stud is perfectly straight the hammer can still rub the frame.
sorry to drag up an old post - I was cleaning my Model 57-1 and noticed that the hammer lays at rest much closer to the right side of the frame, I haven't noticed any wear and after removing the sideplate I'm fairly sure my stud isn't bent. the boss on the sideplate is worn through the blue, but no wear on the hammer itself. Do you guys suggest using shims? Thanks.
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Old 02-02-2011, 11:26 PM
m1gunner m1gunner is offline
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Is there some side to side play of the hammer on the stud? You can measure gap with feeler gauges, and correct with some shims.

You don't want it dead tight, just moving freely and not dragging on the frame.
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Old 02-02-2011, 11:50 PM
jonbondave jonbondave is offline
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not really any side to side play. at least not in the resting position. The gun shoots fine, really it might just be closer to the right, like i say there is no wear from dragging on the hammer and none inside the side plate except the boss where the stud rests is worn down to bear metal. I don't know if that's normal, i'm pretty new to old revolvers
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Old 02-03-2011, 10:15 AM
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not really any side to side play. at least not in the resting position. The gun shoots fine, really it might just be closer to the right, like i say there is no wear from dragging on the hammer and none inside the side plate except the boss where the stud rests is worn down to bear metal. I don't know if that's normal, i'm pretty new to old revolvers

My 27-2-bought new-was like that from day one, back in 1981.
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Old 02-03-2011, 03:30 PM
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alright, then i won't mess with it! thanks
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Old 02-03-2011, 10:17 PM
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I have a Model 27 in which the hammer stud sheared off. S&W's price to replace is (IIRC) $75-80. That is not including shipping. There is also the issue ($) of do you want the frame refinished? A good local gunsmith might be able to straighten a bent stud but I would only sent the gun to the factory if the stud needs replacing.
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:26 PM
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I am just curious..........

I know it is not uncommon for the hammer studs to break (usually where the knurled part ends and the shaft begins) but I am a bit puzzled as to how it got bent? When the revolver's side plate is in place, the stud is supported by the hole in the side plate, so I am curious as to how that happened, unless the stud was shorter than factory spec's. and did not have the full support of the side plate as intended.

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gunsmith, hardening, model 24, model 27, model 57, sideplate

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