Purchased my SW9VE a week ago and thought the trigger pull warranted the discussion I've seen on the boards. Had no problem getting 3" groups at 30', but wanted to cut back on the muscle required to pull the sucker.

After much searching I found some great instructions for a trigger job to both SMOOTH the pull AND reduce the WEIGHT of the pull.

I NEVER dabbled in smithing prior to this, yet I was able to pull it off - so I thought many of you could benefit as well. This qualifies under the "if I can do it anyone can" principle.

I know this was probably posted before but has since expired - so here goes. The usual disclaimer is that these instructios will SIGNIFICANTLY modify the firearm from manufacturer specifications and come with the usual warnings about such modifications. There could be legal implications should a modified firearm be involved in a defense situation. So decide for yourself the level of risk you are willing to take. I'm told this type of trigger job "could" cause failure of the trigger to reset - but after getting into the gun I fail to see how that could happen given the remaining springs after the job is completed...but you never know. It's YOUR gun so decide for yourself if you are willing to risk breaking it in the process of trying to mess with the trigger pull.

YOU WILL NEED:

- Punches or suitable substitutes (very small screwdrivers will work if you are careful)

- Hammer

- Tweezers and/or small needle nose pliers

- Covered block of wood to work on

- Dremel with metal and cloth polishing wheels (or suitable manual/motorized alternatives)

- Vice grips


INSTRUCTIONS (in laymans terms):

UNLOAD AND STRIP FIREARM AS IF YOU ARE CLEANING IT. Set aside slide and set to work on frame.

Pull trigger and watch action of the parts...you will see a metal tab that sticks up which slides front to back as you pull the trigger...it has a 45 degree angle on it. This is the sear. It catches a similarly shaped piece on the slide (look at that too) and pulls it back. Then as the sear travels in its path, a curve in the sear connects with the plastic frame causing the sear to drop low allowing the tab on the slide to be released thus releasing the firing pin and firing the gun.

Watch the sear as it moves when you pull the trigger. On the back side of the sear is an arched portion facing the rear of the gun - it slides against the plastic frame - this "glides" the sear on it's descending path. This curved surface can be "ridged" causing a "gritty" feel as you pull the trigger - as it rubs on the plastic. Remember this for later as you'll be polishing that arch.

Start disassembly. There is a pin going through the rear of the gun right by where the web of your hand sits. This holds in the sear assembly. Take a punch, flat head nail, other straight object and lightly tap out this pin.

Once pin is removed, grasp gun as if you are shooting it. Grasp the sear assembly with your off hand and gently pull trigger while gently pulling up on the sear assembly. The sear assembly should pop right out...unless you have a dirty gun.

Slide the sear assembly up and then disconnect from the trigger arm and REMEMBER WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE - take photos or notes if you have to so you remember how it goes back together!!!

If you look at the sear assembly you will see SEVERAL pins that hold things in place. The sear is the big chunk of shaped metal on top with springs leading down to a bottom pin. Note the pins going through the sear itself are wider in diameter on one side than the other - this will help reassembly.

There is one pin on the bottom holding a small coiled spring with 2 tabs. This is where a good portion of the trigger weight comes from. Work the action of the sear with your finger and you can see how the springs all work, as well as how the sear rubs the plastic at the curved part of the sear.

Tap out the bottom pin first, if memory serves this is equal diameter on both sides. The spring is under tension and will pop out - contain it so you can save it.

Once that pin is out you can remove the other 2 pins that go directly through the sear itself which will release it from the small metal frame and the 2 longer springs. Incidentally these springs are the ones that provide vertical tension on the sear when you pull the trigger. Removing the WIDER one and leaving the smaller once will create less resistance as the sear "rides" along the curved edge of the plastic when you pull the trigger. Once apart you will notice there is a WIDE spring slipped OVER a NARROW spring. Remove the WIDER spring and set it aside so you can save it with the little coiled spring with the tabs. The SMALLER (narrower) long spring will go back on when you reassemble.

You should now have the sear completely removed and isolated. Notice the curved part of the sear just below the 45 degree sharp angle. The top of that 45 degree portion is oriented "up" when in the gun, the curve is oriented facing the "rear" of the gun when in the gun.

Place the sear in a set of vice grips - don't grip too tightly. Using FINE sand paper or a dremel with a stainless or carbon wheel polish the CURVE of the sear to a mirror finish. You are NOT removing metal...just polishing out any ridges along the surface of the curve. Make sure you do it evenly and do NOT "sharpen" the edges of the curve as it will cut the plastic when reassembled. Try polishing at angles to prevent this effect.

Then polish the TOP of the sear and the face of the 45 degree angle. Just polish - do NOT take off metal as taking off metal will change where the trigger breaks and could affect proper release of the firing pin. This step can be skipped - as it only helps to smooth the break.

Once you are finished polishing the sear reassemble the sear back into the sear assembly using ONLY the narrow, long spring. You are going to have only TWO parts left over...the wider long spring that was over the narrower long spring and the little coiled spring with the 2 tabs that went at the bottom of the sear assembly.

Once reassembled place sear assembly back into the frame, reattaching the trigger arm to the sear assembly and squeeze the trigger gently. If you are satisfied then put the pin that holds the sear assembly in the gun back into the frame (the one you took out first) and put the slide back on to dry fire.

If you do it right you should notice the trigger is SMOOTH and the weight has dropped by 30-50% depending on how many rounds you have put through 'er before you did the job.

Save the 2 springs in case you want to sell the gun - as you cannot sell it to a dealer modified (so I am told by the state of MA). The state of MA also cautions the use of a modified gun in self defense situations COULD be used against you - depends on how aggressive the DA wants to be I guess. They said the law is "silent" on this topic which basically means s/he who gets nailed first creates the precident. So be smart and have fun!

To return the gun back to its original state, just reassemble - put the springs back in - and you're back to where you started.

Love to hear any feedback if you try this out!

__________________
Live free or die shooting

Purchased my SW9VE a week ago and thought the trigger pull warranted the discussion I've seen on the boards. Had no problem getting 3" groups at 30', but wanted to cut back on the muscle required to pull the sucker.

After much searching I found some great instructions for a trigger job to both SMOOTH the pull AND reduce the WEIGHT of the pull.

I NEVER dabbled in smithing prior to this, yet I was able to pull it off - so I thought many of you could benefit as well. This qualifies under the "if I can do it anyone can" principle.

I know this was probably posted before but has since expired - so here goes. The usual disclaimer is that these instructios will SIGNIFICANTLY modify the firearm from manufacturer specifications and come with the usual warnings about such modifications. There could be legal implications should a modified firearm be involved in a defense situation. So decide for yourself the level of risk you are willing to take. I'm told this type of trigger job "could" cause failure of the trigger to reset - but after getting into the gun I fail to see how that could happen given the remaining springs after the job is completed...but you never know. It's YOUR gun so decide for yourself if you are willing to risk breaking it in the process of trying to mess with the trigger pull.

YOU WILL NEED:

- Punches or suitable substitutes (very small screwdrivers will work if you are careful)

- Hammer

- Tweezers and/or small needle nose pliers

- Covered block of wood to work on

- Dremel with metal and cloth polishing wheels (or suitable manual/motorized alternatives)

- Vice grips


INSTRUCTIONS (in laymans terms):

UNLOAD AND STRIP FIREARM AS IF YOU ARE CLEANING IT. Set aside slide and set to work on frame.

Pull trigger and watch action of the parts...you will see a metal tab that sticks up which slides front to back as you pull the trigger...it has a 45 degree angle on it. This is the sear. It catches a similarly shaped piece on the slide (look at that too) and pulls it back. Then as the sear travels in its path, a curve in the sear connects with the plastic frame causing the sear to drop low allowing the tab on the slide to be released thus releasing the firing pin and firing the gun.

Watch the sear as it moves when you pull the trigger. On the back side of the sear is an arched portion facing the rear of the gun - it slides against the plastic frame - this "glides" the sear on it's descending path. This curved surface can be "ridged" causing a "gritty" feel as you pull the trigger - as it rubs on the plastic. Remember this for later as you'll be polishing that arch.

Start disassembly. There is a pin going through the rear of the gun right by where the web of your hand sits. This holds in the sear assembly. Take a punch, flat head nail, other straight object and lightly tap out this pin.

Once pin is removed, grasp gun as if you are shooting it. Grasp the sear assembly with your off hand and gently pull trigger while gently pulling up on the sear assembly. The sear assembly should pop right out...unless you have a dirty gun.

Slide the sear assembly up and then disconnect from the trigger arm and REMEMBER WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE - take photos or notes if you have to so you remember how it goes back together!!!

If you look at the sear assembly you will see SEVERAL pins that hold things in place. The sear is the big chunk of shaped metal on top with springs leading down to a bottom pin. Note the pins going through the sear itself are wider in diameter on one side than the other - this will help reassembly.

There is one pin on the bottom holding a small coiled spring with 2 tabs. This is where a good portion of the trigger weight comes from. Work the action of the sear with your finger and you can see how the springs all work, as well as how the sear rubs the plastic at the curved part of the sear.

Tap out the bottom pin first, if memory serves this is equal diameter on both sides. The spring is under tension and will pop out - contain it so you can save it.

Once that pin is out you can remove the other 2 pins that go directly through the sear itself which will release it from the small metal frame and the 2 longer springs. Incidentally these springs are the ones that provide vertical tension on the sear when you pull the trigger. Removing the WIDER one and leaving the smaller once will create less resistance as the sear "rides" along the curved edge of the plastic when you pull the trigger. Once apart you will notice there is a WIDE spring slipped OVER a NARROW spring. Remove the WIDER spring and set it aside so you can save it with the little coiled spring with the tabs. The SMALLER (narrower) long spring will go back on when you reassemble.

You should now have the sear completely removed and isolated. Notice the curved part of the sear just below the 45 degree sharp angle. The top of that 45 degree portion is oriented "up" when in the gun, the curve is oriented facing the "rear" of the gun when in the gun.

Place the sear in a set of vice grips - don't grip too tightly. Using FINE sand paper or a dremel with a stainless or carbon wheel polish the CURVE of the sear to a mirror finish. You are NOT removing metal...just polishing out any ridges along the surface of the curve. Make sure you do it evenly and do NOT "sharpen" the edges of the curve as it will cut the plastic when reassembled. Try polishing at angles to prevent this effect.

Then polish the TOP of the sear and the face of the 45 degree angle. Just polish - do NOT take off metal as taking off metal will change where the trigger breaks and could affect proper release of the firing pin. This step can be skipped - as it only helps to smooth the break.

Once you are finished polishing the sear reassemble the sear back into the sear assembly using ONLY the narrow, long spring. You are going to have only TWO parts left over...the wider long spring that was over the narrower long spring and the little coiled spring with the 2 tabs that went at the bottom of the sear assembly.

Once reassembled place sear assembly back into the frame, reattaching the trigger arm to the sear assembly and squeeze the trigger gently. If you are satisfied then put the pin that holds the sear assembly in the gun back into the frame (the one you took out first) and put the slide back on to dry fire.

If you do it right you should notice the trigger is SMOOTH and the weight has dropped by 30-50% depending on how many rounds you have put through 'er before you did the job.

Save the 2 springs in case you want to sell the gun - as you cannot sell it to a dealer modified (so I am told by the state of MA). The state of MA also cautions the use of a modified gun in self defense situations COULD be used against you - depends on how aggressive the DA wants to be I guess. They said the law is "silent" on this topic which basically means s/he who gets nailed first creates the precident. So be smart and have fun!

To return the gun back to its original state, just reassemble - put the springs back in - and you're back to where you started.

Love to hear any feedback if you try this out!

__________________
Live free or die shooting

Here's some pictures to go along w/the detailed instructions. Most everything is the same as above, but rather than removing larger outer spring and the small lower spring, I chose to shorten both the inner and outer springs and re-install all three springs. I may try removal of the lower spring to see if I get same reliability.

Sigma trigger work (pictures)

Where have you been? This is posted all over this section.

What you have done by removing the outer sear spring is make your gun unsuitable for self defense. You risk not having the sear reset, especially with hot defense loads.

I am very familiar with all the "spring" tricks with a Sigma. Whiole they are legal for IDPA (the only bad result is that the gun fails to fire) they are not suited for a defense gun.

__________________
Science plus Art

I really appreciate this info. I took mine down according to 99 Mustang's pictures (thanks), cut the smaller spring down about an eighth inch or so with wire snips, took a spring from a ball point pen, cut both ends so that the loose coils were left and put it over the small spring to make sure it didn't buckle, then put it back together less the small spring at the bottom (I may put that back later). Wow, what a difference! This is a new gun with just the harder pull of the striker (I didn't change that spring for fear of light strikes), I closes and breaks crisply and easily. I love it!! I fit my hand so well, I had to try making the trigger more serviceable. I reworked a Glock earlier and this is a better gun. By the way, there was a new Sigma advertised with a light trigger with all the trigger work done for $300 (Gunbroker), so I'm not sure how applicable it is to change it back to an arhritis bender should you ever sell it. I love it myself. Wish they had one in .45! Thanks again for the help.

Dave

n00bs.

They usually are just passing through. This mod is the best thing ever! Usually turns into an unreliable pistol and they move on.

__________________
-Greg

I'm trying to figure out how it can be made unreliable? Mine is down to 4#. It works great slow or fast. It's a great pistol as it fits your hand so well, so a great trigger is an asset. Four pounds it hard enough to prevent accidents and since I always lube wisely, there is no problem with the action. Just curious. Thanks.

Dave

OK, if you seriously want to know rather than argue:
According to S&W, removing or cutting the sear springs makes the sear reset slower. With the ammo commonly used for IDPA (PF 125) is is not usually a problem. At any rate, the failure mode is simply that the sear does not reset and the gun fails to fire.

If hotter defense ammo is used, it become increasingly likely the sear will not have time to reset. Many people have found this problem when using hot defense loads.

So it depends on your intended use and ammo selection whether this is an acceptable modification.
Neither I nor S&W recommend the modification for defense, although I do not object if people bring such a modified gun to my IDPA matches.

__________________
Science plus Art

Thanks. That's what I wanted to know. I use it mostly for target practice (no contests). I will try some hotter loads than WWB that I have for self defense and see how it works. Thanks for the answer, I'll post again after I have put more rounds through it.

Dave

Usually when you dick with the stock config, it's just a matter of time before you try to pull the trigger and nothing happens. I trust the engineers at S&W have a clue about their pistol in its 3rd generation.

If you can't/won't shoot the Sigma as it's designed, you're better off with a different handgun.

__________________
-Greg