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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 04-26-2010, 03:36 AM
Shawn L Shawn L is offline
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Default Model 18-4 first range trip..

I was finally able to take out my Model 18-4 today and it shot like a dream. This was my first time out with a revolver and I really like shooting it. I didn't care for the double action, I guess I need more trigger time.

I was also having problems with the front sight getting drowned out with the target. Is there something I can put on the front sight blade?

Here's some picture's of my target.






I hope my groups will get tighter with practice. I'm also going to look into getting some more comfortable grips.
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Old 04-26-2010, 05:01 AM
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Do you mean the front is too high?
You could change / lower the rear blade, then readjust it higher so your not shooting while looking thru the front sight.

Also you could add a red insert to the front.
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Old 04-26-2010, 06:47 AM
TNDave TNDave is offline
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That gun is on! You might put a little fingernail polish on the front sight to help visibility. Target shooters use black sights so there is a lot to be said for using them. Most target shooters put carbide on their sights.
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Old 04-26-2010, 07:34 AM
stevie-ca stevie-ca is offline
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Nice shooting, nothing wrong with that grouping.
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Old 04-26-2010, 09:43 AM
InTheWoods InTheWoods is offline
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Your front sight is not easily visable because you are probably using a 'center hold' on the target. If your main use of this gun is for target shooting, you should consider setting your sights to use a 'six o'clock' hold, where you place the entire bull on top of the front sight. This will leave a clear outline of both the front and rear sights on the white of the paper. This is what most target shooters do and why they generally prefer all black sights.

If you are using this gun for hunting or informal field plinking also, then the center hold may be best for you and coloring your front sight may be in order.

Last edited by InTheWoods; 04-26-2010 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 04-26-2010, 10:43 AM
cptdco cptdco is offline
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If you use the six o'clock hold as InTheWoods recommends and don't change the sight settings, then you'll get a lot of life out of every paper target: just rotate it a quarter after each group or two. Regarding the sight getting lost in the target: I don't color the sight blade, but I do use red targets and I find it much easier to shoot for the X ring with those then with a black target. Very nice gun, by the way, and fine shooting.
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Old 04-26-2010, 11:09 AM
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Nice shooting Shawn!

Speaking of trigger time Looks like you have a .500 wide target hammer and trigger?
I love that combination on my Model 17's for target shooting.

As for gips you have alot of options.

If you like your factoryMagna grips some people add a set of "Tyler T " adapters , Especially if you have big hands.

I prefer the look and feel of S&W wood target grips or finger grooved combat grips with medallions.

Any rubber K frame grips like Pachmayer or Hogue work equally well and can be found at most gunshows or shops from under $10.00.used to $35 new.

There are also quite a few manufactureers of aftermarket wood grips.
Just a matter of finding a pair you find comfortable and appealing.

Last edited by Engine49guy; 04-26-2010 at 11:14 AM.
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Old 04-26-2010, 11:57 AM
InTheWoods InTheWoods is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cptdco View Post
If you use the six o'clock hold as InTheWoods recommends and don't change the sight settings, then you'll get a lot of life out of every paper target: just rotate it a quarter after each group or two. Regarding the sight getting lost in the target: I don't color the sight blade, but I do use red targets and I find it much easier to shoot for the X ring with those then with a black target. Very nice gun, by the way, and fine shooting.
Actually, if you do as I recommend you won't get any extra target life. The sights would be adjusted to hit dead center using a six-o'clock hold as most target shooters do. It is kinda nice to see those bullets punching out the ten ring. If you do as the quoted poster suggests (also a good idea), you won't be changing the sight settings. Then you will all set up for plinking and hunting (and you will be getting extra target life).
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Old 04-26-2010, 01:26 PM
Shawn L Shawn L is offline
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Thanks for all the insightful responses guy's. I was using Federal 550 bulk pack ammo. I really liked the weight of the Model 18, I was able to easily shoot one handed.

InTheWoods I was aiming point of impact so it make since that my group are a little high, I will use the 6 O'clock method next time out.

As for the grips I need to get to a gun store and see some different options. I was browsing the web and came across Ahrends grips, they look good and seem to be reasonably priced. I just need to feel what one fit my hands the best.
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Old 04-26-2010, 02:10 PM
Shawn L Shawn L is offline
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Also what's the best way to practice with out going to the range with this gun. I've read that you are not suppose to dry fire a .22 revolver. Can I use snap-caps?
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Old 04-26-2010, 05:03 PM
k22fan k22fan is offline
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Smile Nice groups.

Hello Shawn;

I prefer all black sights and a center hold most of the time, especially for bullseye target shooting. It works because we must focus on the front sight to do our best. The bullseye blurs out and the front sight appears sharp and clear. This does not work for the more popular faster blaster matches because they are shot standing so close to the target that black sights don’t stand out against black targets. Bullseye is fired from 50 ft. indoors and 25 and 50 yards outdoors.

I believe the text book 6 O’clock bullseye hold encourages trying to fire when everything is perfectly aligned which does not work. Instead, try letting the gun float around the middle area of your target maintaining the front and rear sight alignment as precisely as you can while squeezing the trigger. The concept is area aiming. The area gets smaller with practice and lots of practice is what your new model 18 is perfect for. I think it’s best to practice single action fire at 25 yards for awhile before moving on to double action and more recoil. An accurate shooter can speed it up a lot easier than a fast shooter can learn to shoot accurately. You wind up being more accurate with the big boomers if you step up the recoil gradually and develop good accuracy at each step before going to the next harder kicker. That also gives you time to find a model 15 that is in as good a condition as your model 18 at a fair price.

Snap caps are necessary as you know. If you substitute fired cases, rotate them frequently. Small drywall screw anchors are made in just the right size to work as .22 snap caps. The ones I have are yellow. All .22 snap caps wear out fairly quickly so this saves a nickel or two. Try dry firing with a penny balanced on your front sight base. The idea is for the penny to not fall off. This works with a penny’s Lincoln memorial aligned on top of a patridge front sight, but I don’t see much of a flat on top of you model 18’s ramp. I have ramp sighted S&Ws with enough of a flat for this to work, even for double action.

Regarding trigger pull, especially double action, the first thing I do to most newly acquired S&Ws is change the rebound spring to a softer one from Wolf. You can clip a coil or two off the factory spring if you prefer. You can stone some surfaces to improve the double action but read up on how to do this correctly first.

Bulk pack Federal .22 is my favorite. I’m not a master at bullseye, but we haven’t had a master class shooter anywhere near my area in years. Bulk packaged Federal groups tight enough in all of my k22s to beat most of the competitors that fire expensive .22 ammo through optical sighted target autos.

If you want to paint your front sight, model airplane paint from hobby stores works well but brighter florescent colors can be found in paints sold to make fishing lures.

Best regards;

Gil
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Old 04-26-2010, 05:15 PM
Shawn L Shawn L is offline
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Thanks again Gil for your great explanations. I should have brought home some spent round, I'll do that next time and thanks for the info in regards to the penny method. I'm just going to leave the front sight blade stock for now and just get used to it. I also know a guy that works on revolvers and I may have him look at the trigger for me.
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ahrends, bullseye, grooved, hogue, k frame, model 15, model 17, patridge

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