A recently purchased 66-1 is shooting 4" plus high at 25yds. with the rear sight at it's lowest setting. I've tried 158g SWC over 5g Universal and various factory loads like Fed. 158 SJHP and 38+p 125s. All shoot high. The only other time I've run into this is with my 686+ Mtn. Gun and the Fed. 180 Cast Core load. Heavier bullets usually shoot higher than lighter ones due to longer bore contact so that problem was solved my not using that load anymore in that gun. I really like the feel and handling of this 66 and want to solve this. Any ideas? Thanks.
Bob

Change the rear sight blade?

Cubguy. Thanks. I'll call S&W tomorrow. Guess I was trying to make it too complicated.
Bob

i dont know that powder but i see +p and some factory loads. just for giggles if you want to stay with 38 sp. try slowing them down a bit, maybe some greendot and 148 gr FWC, just to see what happens. then if that brings the POA down you have a theory to work with. if they go wild or stay high then start searching other remedies. now if this is for carry and not target i dont have an opine on that. good luck and let us know what happens.

" Shooting High" Don't do it!
It can be worse than posting while drinking. Someone could get
seriously hurt.

Regards , Allen Frame

__________________
NRA cert.instructor&R.S.O.

Seriously ,, if the front sight blade is pinned ,how about
a taller front sight blade?

Good luck ,,Al

__________________
NRA cert.instructor&R.S.O.

that's what I thought too, when I saw the thread.

I always wondered why heavier bullets shoot higher. It should be the opposite - heavy bullets weigh more (duh!) and should drop faster. But this month I read that heavy bullets produce more recoil at the muzzle - which is true - and therefore produce more muzzle rise - also true and it seems logical.

BTW - I use a lot of Universal in .40 S&W, and it's a great powder. The burn rate in nearly identical to Unique, but burns cleaner.

Also, try shooting your revolver from a good rest, and have someone else shoot it to make sure the problem is with the gun.

__________________
NRA Lifetime Member

I just looked at some old (1998) paper targets and saw that I lost about 3 inches at 15 yards with a load of 4.6 gr of W-231 over a 148 gr HBFWC. This was out of a Security Six and a pre-Mod- 14. If mem serves that was at a fairly low vol. About 1.5 to 2.0 in groups. Standing W/2 hand hold.

Simple solution:
use same type case and powder charge but try a lighter bullet.
Start with 150gr, then 145gr, then 125gr.
a heavier bullet will POA higher then a lighter one.
Heavier bullet will have more bore time than a lighter one thus POA higher.
Jimmy

As I remember....(and I'm getting old)...

S&W has at least three (3) heights of rear sight blades for K-frames.

A shorter blade (or whatever you call it) will lower your Point of Impact (POI) versus Point of Aim (POA).

I recently found a Model 66 (no dash) and it shoots high at 25 yards with my favorite target load (high meaning that it will not sight in so that POA and POI are the same at 25 yards).

Then I remembered that when these guns were made, folks were shooting Bullseye competition with them and S&W recommended a "6-O'Clock" hold in the original owner's manual and the illustration showed an NRA 25-yard Bullseye target.

So I tried the "ol time pumpkin on the post" sight picture with an official NRA 25-yard target and found it has ample adjustment to center your POI when holding on the bottom edge of the 25 yard target at 25 yards. I need to try this with an old-time 50 yard Slow fire target at 50 yards -- but I bet it will also work.

While my Model 66 appears to have the tall rear sight, I happened to also have an "extra" rear sight assembly with a short rear sight blade in my spare S&W parts collection. Installation of that low rear sight blade assembly allows me to adjust the gun for "Center of cottontail rabbit head" at 25 yards if needed.

Just my humble opinion.

See if the factory can provide you with a lower rear sight blade. Measure your blade height first if you have a micrometer or vernier caliper. They're not difficult to replace, but a tool you can probably get from Brownell's will make it far easier. I did one years ago on one of my guns, and, since I have elephant fingers and succeeded, it must have been relatively simple, and, since I am somewhat of a miser, the tool must have been inexpensive. The tool looks like a little fork that engages corresponding slots in the windage nut. A lower rear blade will cause you to lower the muzzle to line up the top of the front blade with the top of the rear. It worked for me, although in my case I had the opposite problem: shooting too low. I got the next higher blade. May you succeed.

Yes, or one of these FO fronts:

Super Sights

Thanks for the replies. Called S&W today and ordered a taller rear sight blade. Will check with Brownells tomorrow about the installation tool that was mentioned. I know 125's would print lower but I have a lot of 158g LSWC's and want a load for general carry around the farm for dispatching coons, skunks, possums, etc. and just for plinking. Have used 22's, 44's and 45's for this but decided to work with 38 and 357 for a while since I have a new to me 66-1 and haven't shot my others in that category much lately. Looking forward to it. Thanks again.
Bob