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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 10-17-2010, 07:53 PM
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Default Pre-10 Fails to extract

Alright, just got back from a match using my 1955 M&P .38 anyway the issues I'm having is that twice during the match the revolver failed to extract. What happened was that 5 of the shells ejected when I pressed the rod, while the 6th stayed in the cylinder which was then stuck when I let the extractor star back down. I had to hold the extractor extended and pry the round out. Why would this happen and how would I go about fixing it. It was not a constant malfunction as it only happened twice in 250 rounds. The ammo I was using was CCI aluminum 158 grain, and American Eagle 158 gain. Both were round lead nose and the malfunction happened once with each gun.
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Old 10-17-2010, 07:59 PM
john traveler john traveler is offline
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The sticky case extraction could simply be from not properly cleaning the chambers and letting firing residue (carbonized oil, bullet lube, lead) build up. Try a thorough cleaning with bronze brush and solvent.

The other possibility is that you have somehow fired overloaded cartridges, and the locking bolt cuts have dimpled. To check for this, first brush and solvent clean all the chambers and wipe dry. Look into each chamber with a strong light shining into the cylinder, and see if the bolt cuts are dimpled. If they are, the only cure is to replace the cylinder, or put up with the sticky extraction.
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:01 PM
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You "fix" it by proper manipulation of the mechanism!. Hold the gun muzzle up and then push the extractor, either ejecting into your hand or onto the table or ground. A case can't fall under the extractor if the muzzle is up.

This will also help with the problem of partially burned powder grains falling under the extractor and jamming the gun.
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:06 PM
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Well to answer both questions, I cleaned the cylinders after the match and they seemed to be dirty but not that bad. However I did notice a ring in each cylinder about 7/8 down the cylinder. I assume this is round the rounds moving down the cylinder?

My technique for removing the shells is to press the button right my right thumb, press the cylinder out with my left hand, and press the extractor with my left thumb while rotating the gun to about 70 degrees. I can reach it fine, as I have really large hands. Then I just reload with my right hand and continue the exercise. The case didn't fall out of the cylinder and THEN get stuck, it was stuck from the start, it stayed in the cylinder while the rest ejected.
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:08 PM
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ALK is correct, this isn't a gun problem it is a shooter induced problem...I should know, done it myself before. You did at least two things to cause the brass to get trapped under the star, first you did not get the barrel verticle, you most likely had it parallel to the deck. The second thing you did was likely double stroked the ejector rod and that second stroke caught the single piece of brass that was laying against the side and pulled it back into the chamber.

The only time this has happened to me was at the 15 yard stage of fire, 12 rounds in 20 seconds. I watched myself double stroke on a sloppy unload. Watched the brass get sucked right back into the chamber under the star. No way to clear it before the targets turned. down 60 points instantly.
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKT View Post
ALK is correct, this isn't a gun problem it is a shooter induced problem...I should know, done it myself before. You did at least two things to cause the brass to get trapped under the star, first you did not get the barrel verticle, you most likely had it parallel to the deck. The second thing you did was likely double stroked the ejector rod and that second stroke caught the single piece of brass that was laying against the side and pulled it back into the chamber.

The only time this has happened to me was at the 15 yard stage of fire, 12 rounds in 20 seconds. I watched myself double stroke on a sloppy unload. Watched the brass get sucked right back into the chamber under the star. No way to clear it before the targets turned. down 60 points instantly.
This makes sense, while I do not remember stroking the extractor twice its possible that with the timer going I did. With my technique of reloading a revolver in which I don't flip the gun vertical. At most its 3/4 vertical its likely that the shell started to eject and then I re-caught and seated it.
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:53 PM
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I don't think you can get enough force on the ejector rod generated by the thumb alone, especially if the chambers are dirty or hot, no matter how big your hands are. I use the palm of my left hand to slap eject the shells. It also insures that I fully depress the rod - you can more easily short stroke the rod with just a thumb.

Also be sure that the gun is pointing up (as you are), with the gun tilted slightly toward its left side so that the inward shells are less likely to drag on the frame. Many people I see ejecting with the thumb tilt the gun to the right.

Finally, if you want almost perfect ejection, moon clip the gun. Moon clips may allow faster loading (although a COMP 3 can be just as fast), but they guarantee that all of the shells come out as a group with no shell hangup. Easier to pick up after a stage, as well.


Buck
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Old 10-18-2010, 03:29 PM
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This is exactly why moon clip conversions have become so popular with a lot of guys that shoot .38's in wheelgun competition. I don't shoot competitively, but I love my 610 for the positive extraction - and it sure makes it a lot easier to locate all your spent brass.

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