Hello everyone,

As much as these things happen "by accident", I found myself picking up a little .32 hand ejector at a show this weekend. I was more in the market for a .38 top break, but I stumbled across this for a pittance and the more I handled it the more I felt like it could be a good find.

From what I can tell it's a fairly straightforward .32 model 1903, third model, with a serial number of 2802xx. I think this would date it somewhere in the late nineteen teens, but I'd love to know if someone has a date chart and can pin it down more accurately.

She's been well-used (and probably well holstered given the substantial wear to the nickel plating), but the cylinder gap is very tight, the barrel is still serviceable and the action feels smooth. Other than having been over-lubricated, I don't think there's a whole lot wrong with it.

The one thing that does concern me is some cutting in the top strap. It's tough to get a good shot of this, but the last image shows this pretty well. I'm not entirely concerned about the structural integrity of the top strap (there's still a lot of good metal there), but I'm assuming that I should be modest about the ammo I run in this?

I'm also curious about the number stamped on the inside of the side plate. The cylinder and frame have the same serial number (2802xx) stamped in them, and based on the fit and finish I'm entirely confidant that this is the original side plate that came with it from the factory. What does "1968" mean?

I originally thought that this might make a nice gun to learn nickel plating with, but the more I look at it the more I think I might just leave it in its "work clothes". There's something very aesthetically pleasing about a gun this old wearing its original plating.

Thoughts? Opinions?

Cheers,
-- Mike

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Duh. I think I just answered my own question (about the side plate number).

The same number is stamped on the part of the frame covered by the crane. I'm guessing that this is some sort of assembly number?

I didn't see any number stamped on the crane, but I also haven't looked very much.

It does seem a bit funny to me that the serial number is used on the frame and cylinder, and a separate number is used on the side plate (and possibly the yoke) ...

Cheers,
-- Mike

Heres some good news for you, that is not flame cutting. Back then the factory purposely dished out that area to divert the gasses and to help prevent flame cutting. Your gun is just as it should be. HTH

__________________
Dick

Thanks Dick. I would never have thought of that on my own, but now that I look closely at it the "dishing" is a bit further back, and it definitely has the appearance of being ground out with some sort of grinding tool. There is a faint carbonized line where the cutting would actually appear, but there's no actual erosion into the metal that I can see.

This is the best news I've received all day!

I'm really excited to try this gun out at the range. I have a feeling that .32 will be a very pleasant caliber to target shoot with, and the thin round blade front sight will make it a fun challenge.

Cheers,
-- Mike

Believe it or not I was just looking at one of these today. It had the right grips, slightly better condition, but I believe it was already refinished once, although it appeared that was a long time ago.

They are compelling little guns there is something very charming, almost toy like about them. Kind of like a fine old watch.

Maybe I'll make an offer, it would make a nice pair with my .32 Terrier.

Might make a nice project gun, I wonder how much an engraver would charge to clean up and recut the roll marks?

/c

Chuck, I agree. I handled all sorts of pistols at the show this weekend past, and there was something "right" about the feel of this gun in hand.

I guess finding a period holster for this will be like looking for hen's teeth ...

Cheers,
-- Mike

Yours is cleaner than my 2nd Model and I think you will enjoy it.


Emphasis on the challenge . Just a word of advice: stand in the shade to shoot it or blacken what passes for sights on these...sunlight glinting off of that shiny knife edge is tough.

Duly noted. I found that out when I was cleaning it in my garage; looking down the barrel I really had to look carefully to see the front blade.

That said, I'm impressed with the build quality of this gun. The attention to detail is obvious. It's a shame that these guns sell for so little; it really isn't representative of the quality.

Cheers,
-- Mike

Curious minds want to know, if you care to divulge, just how much is a "pittance"??

Do you need a set of grips for it? If so, I have a set available.

$100 including tax from a local dealer, which suggests that he paid next to nothing for it.

I might, actually. Are yours originals or repos? Whatcha asking for them?

Cheers,
-- Mike

Just got back from the range with this little guy. I was surprised how much kick it had, and those spindly little grips didn't make it any easier. I can't say that I had much of a discernible pattern at 10 yards - mainly because that blade front sight had a tendency to become invisible. But it was great fun nonetheless and it gave me a new appreciation for how comfortable, smooth and accurate my Beretta 70 is.

I'll definitely be reloading with some wadcutters for next time.

-- Mike

Mike,
I, too, just acquired one of these, from a gentleman on the forum,
and felt about it just as you do, including the visit to the range.
I realised that the grips, while great for carry/conceal, were not a
shooter's best friend. Just for grins, I mounted a set of grips from
a mofified i-frame pre-30. What a difference! Having posted on this,
I got some great responses, as to modifying a set of j-frame grips,
by shortening up the bottoms. Mod i-frame grips fit perfect, j-frame
will take just a little effort.
This forum is like a bunch of good neighbors!
Let us know what you come up with; as soon as I get my regular
computer back, I'll post pics, too.
TACC!

Kick? I've always thought it was more like a twitch than a kick, but then again I enjoy shooting K-frame .357s and N-frame .44s, so I must just be insensitive!

Properly fitting (to you) hands make any handgun more comfortable and controllable, though. With the tiny little grip frame you have on that gun, a set of the grips that completely surround the frame will give a lot more to hold on to and improve the experience for you. I'm waiting for a set of this sort to come in the mail this week for my little RP, not because of recoil but so I can control it better when aiming.

Reloading is a given, not just for the recoil you are experiencing but more importantly for affordable, accurate ammo. That wadcutter load you mention will turn your little wild cat into a pussy cat to shoot. Enjoy!

Froggie

This is a fantastic idea! I thought briefly about trying to find new (beefier) grips for this, but I figured it was too old for there to be any viable aftermarket options.

I think I'd find a classic rubber boot grip most comfortable for target shooting ... I wonder if a J frame grip could be modified? Even a target style wood grip would be an improvement. As long as I'm not modifying the gun and can put the originals back on ...

Cheers,
-- Mike

No, your'e absolutely right. I used to target-shoot a Model 60 with some fairly hot .357 loads, and there really isn't a comparison. Still, I was surprised how much "twitch" there was.

Thanks! I have never reloaded .32 before, but I can't imagine it's any harder than the .38's and .357's I'm used to. I've got a set of dies on order and will find a good wadcutter mould for pouring my own bullets.

With the right set of grips I can see this becoming my new favorite gun at the range. If nothing else, it's a unique challenge and something different. I certainly got a few double-takes at the range yesterday.

Cheers,
-- Mike