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11-26-2010, 02:04 AM
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Which 27-2 should I get?
Help! I am looking at two 27-2 with 3.5 inch barrel. Both are in 98% condition going for the same price. One has a "s" prefix made in 1969 and the other was made in the 1970s. The one with the s prefix has slightly more fine scratches. Which should I get? Why are s series more desireable? If I don't get an answer, I might just have to buy both! Thanks in advance.
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11-26-2010, 02:20 AM
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Buy both? How much are they?
I would proably go with the older one but I really don't have a reason for it, I am sure they are both good pistols..
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11-26-2010, 02:35 AM
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North Pole? Kotzebue by any chance? They are going for $995 but I know I can get it down a bit. Frequent customer discount!
Last edited by 4thUSMC; 11-26-2010 at 02:39 AM.
Reason: add info
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11-26-2010, 03:29 AM
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are they both original, grips ect. ,do they have boxes? Is there anything that makes one stand out, like a set of cokes on the early gun? that is a strong asking price, but certainly not unheard of.. good luck, I just got off a 27 binge, two 4" nickle 27-2s and a 6" blued 27-2 and would love to put my hands on a 3.5" gun
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11-26-2010, 10:12 AM
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If everything is equal, I would, like choosing a puppy, just buy the one that comes to me. When I pick up a gun, it doesn't take me long to get a feeling for it. One or the other would feel better, to me. (Yes, of course I suppose I have been wrong about this feeling thing a time or two. )
I would not get hung up on the S-serial number. S&W was making good guns before they started putting an S on them, and after they stopped, too. If there is absolutely no other way to differentiate, then, yes, I would buy the S-numbered gun - in my case, purely for sentimental reasons.
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11-26-2010, 10:20 AM
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Do a revolver check on both. Check end-shake, barrel-to-cylinder gap, timing, etc. Which has the smoother action in double action and single action? Go from there.
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11-26-2010, 10:39 AM
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More Please
Quote:
Originally Posted by SW357Addict
Do a revolver check on both. Check end-shake, barrel-to-cylinder gap, timing, etc. Which has the smoother action in double action and single action? Go from there.
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How about expanding on the suggestions you made......how to evaluate the revolver in those areas. Most of us would appreciate you sharing that info. Thanks
paperboy98
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11-26-2010, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SW357Addict
Do a revolver check on both. Check end-shake, barrel-to-cylinder gap, timing, etc. Which has the smoother action in double action and single action? Go from there.
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Good advice. Check the recoil shield also for case marks from them rebounding off of it during recoil, especially at the firing pin hole.
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11-26-2010, 10:47 AM
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"They are going for $995"
at those prices I wouldn't get either one of them
on the other hand it that's for the pair, then the short answer is buy both
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11-26-2010, 11:47 AM
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I doubt that's for both...
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They lack our altruism.
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11-26-2010, 01:56 PM
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Those prices seem a wee bit steep.
I picked up a pair of pristine 27-2s, one 3 1/2" and one 5" recently for $1300.
See if you can talk the dealer down some.
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11-26-2010, 02:19 PM
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US Veteran
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does the one from the 70s have a target trigger & hammer? if it does (as many did) I would jump on the '69 as long as the timing, tightness, and trigger pull all checked out...
I never liked a target trigger on a 3 1/2 inch Model 27, it takes away from it's inherent combat superiority (IMO)
Last edited by MP1983; 11-26-2010 at 02:23 PM.
Reason: typo
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11-26-2010, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paperboy98
How about expanding on the suggestions you made......how to evaluate the revolver in those areas. Most of us would appreciate you sharing that info. Thanks
paperboy98
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sorry for the detour. just wanted to help out. try this:
Revolver Checkout Procedure
back to the original discussion.
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