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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 12-06-2010, 07:36 PM
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cporfe cporfe is offline
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Anything I should look out for in a 686-3, 4"? Anything I should look out for in a 686-3, 4"? Anything I should look out for in a 686-3, 4"? Anything I should look out for in a 686-3, 4"? Anything I should look out for in a 686-3, 4"?  
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Default Anything I should look out for in a 686-3, 4"?

I just picked up a 686-3, 4" off Gunbroker. Pictures looked really good and the grips are wood and didn't appear to have much wear. By the time I get it here in VA and do the transfer, I'll have $472 in it. This is my first L frame, is there anything I should look out for as to quirks, take the grips off and use Hogue (are they of any value?), stuff like that?

Appreciate any responses and words of wisdom.

Chris
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Old 12-06-2010, 07:50 PM
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Anything I should look out for in a 686-3, 4"? Anything I should look out for in a 686-3, 4"? Anything I should look out for in a 686-3, 4"? Anything I should look out for in a 686-3, 4"? Anything I should look out for in a 686-3, 4"?  
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It's a solid, problem-free gun. If they fit your hands you don't need to save the standard Target stocks for their value, but most find them too big. You can shoot as many full-power .357s through it as your budget and hands can take, but mostly using .38 Specials will be less expensive and easier overall. If you have the three-letter prefix we can tell you when it left the factory.

Please post a photo when you receive it, and enjoy!
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Old 12-07-2010, 08:40 AM
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Anything I should look out for in a 686-3, 4"?  
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I have that model and it's top notch..............the only thing you need is to get out there and shoot!
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