Hey all,

I've looked at all of the posts here and didn't really see anything here in reference to what tools are actually needed to start reloading.

I'm considering getting into reloading .40S&W because the cost of shooting factory ammo seems way too high to me.

However, I don't know what tools/parts I actually need to get to start reloading. I hate to buy only part of it (like the press) and then find out I need a ton more tools that I didn't expect and can't afford it. So, I'm trying to get an idea of everything I need, so I can get a general idea of how much it's going to cost me to "get into it".

So, if any of you reloading pros could put me on the right track, I would appreciate it. Maybe post up a list of the items/tools you use to go through a complete reloading process (from complete start to finish), that would be perfect. This way I know everything I need to get.

Only thing I have checked out thus far is I saw one post suggesting a Hornady Lock-N-Load Classic Kit, but I'm not sure if this includes everything I actually need to reload or not. I've attached the link from their site.

Hornady Lock-N-Load Classic Kit

What they state on the Hornady site:

"The Hornady Lock-N-Load Classic Reloading Kit comes with everything you need to turn out high-quality, accurate handloads. You get everything listed here, plus complete instructions. The Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading is especially valuable, with hundreds of rifle and pistol loads for every shooting application."

*Lock-N-Load Classic single-stage press
*Lock-N-Load Powder Measure
*Electronic Scale
*The 8th Edition Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading
*Three Lock-N-Load Die Bushings
*Primer Catcher
*Positive Priming System
*Hand-Held Priming Tool
*Universal Reloading Block
*Chamfering and Deburring Tool
*Primer Turning Plate
*One Shot Case Lube

Thanks again for the help!
Mat

__________________
Mat - M&P 40c & 40 Shield

Add to that list a set of dies. For reloading pistol you could get by cheaper buying some of the stuff used. What you should do first is buy a reloading manual, I suggest the Lyman, and read the reloading chapters. They well explain in great detail what you need and how to use it. 99% of your questions will be answered.

I will second Harrison's great advice. Your first purchase should be a good loading manual for you to study and understand the operations involved in reloading ammunition.

Reloading equipment can be as basic as a Lee Classic Loader, or the equally classic Lyman 310 tool. The sky is the limit when you want to go beyond those basics.

Mat,

Do you have a fairly good idea how many rounds you'll go through in a month's time? Most people recommend starting on a single stage outfit, but it can get pretty time-consuming if you're burning up a lot of ammo.

I started with a single-stage kit, but it was just too slow, so I moved up to a turret press(sometimes called a "semi-progressive"). It's somewhat faster than a single-stage, but not nearly as fast as a progressive. If I had it to do over again, I would have just started with the turret job and saved the initial expense of buying the single-stage kit.

I know that isn't what you asked about, but I saw that you were looking at a single-stage kit and thought I would mention it. If you're practicing a lot, it's something else to consider.

Best wishes on this new endeavor.
Andy

Mat,

An item not mentioned on your list is a tumbler. In order to reload fired brass, it must have the burnt powder residues cleaned off to avoid scoring your dies(espec. the sizing die). This is the job of a tumbler. There are a number of brands available; I bought the one Midway handles under the "Frankford Arsenal" name; it was around $70, as I recall. It included some tumbler media, brass polish, and a brass separator and bucket to catch the media.

Andy



P.S. I just reread your post and noticed that you asked for a list of what we use from start to finish. Here is my list -hope I'm not forgetting anything:

-tumbler and accessories mentioned above
-press and dies
-priming tool(mine attaches to the press, and the press primes the case on the downstroke; there are others which do the whole procedure separately)
-powder measure
-powder scale(I would recommend the balance beam type rather than an electronic; if nothing else it would save a considerable amount of money)
-powder funnel(goes in charging die -it may come with the dies, I forget)
-shell holder for press(these are caliber-specific)

In addition, when you buy new brass, you'll need a chamfering tool(removes sharp edges from the inside and outside of the case mouth which tend to catch in the dies) and possibly a case trimmer(for some odd reason brass manufacturers can't seem to get the cases the same length).

This is a key question. If you want to shoot hundreds of rounds per month, your requirements will be totally different than if you want to shoot thousands of rounds per month. Also, how much time do you have to spend reloading? I am retired, and only shoot "hundreds" of rounds per month of centerfire .45 Colt and .38/.357. I can sit up until 2AM resizing or priming a batch of cases, usually about 500 in a batch. I don't have to get up and be at work at 7:30. I would like a good progressive, but I can get it done with a Lee press, a Lee hand tool, and a Lee priming tool. Plus, of course, dies, an electronic scale, and home made and purchased powder dippers.

If you go the progressive route, don't get the Lee. I had one, and it worked pretty good for the first three thousand or so rounds, but I started having some problems. I salvaged the dies and use them on the single stage press now.

All that said, I still believe a new reloader needs to start with a simple single stage rig, so to learn the process. You can usually find used stuff on the various swap and sell sites.

__________________
Georgia On My Mind

Lee Precision: Lee Loader
If the only made one for 40 S&W, the Lee loader, primers, powder, brass, and bullets are all you "need" to reload. Before you buy anything else, I'd strongly suggest you purchase a reloading manual and read it. It will answer all your questions.

I started with a Lee anniversary kit that came with …
Single-Stage Press
Powder Measure
Beam scale

Then bought…
Lee Modern Reloading Manual
Lee dies
Vibratory brass tumbler
Digital scale
Digital caliper
Loading trays
Hammer type bullet puller

Then bought…
Bullets
Primers
Powder

Then saved…
Range brass

Then built a work bench

This PDF from Lyman gives a good summary of the reloading process and the tools you will need.

http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/p...oReloading.pdf

The equipment mentioned is available from several manufacturers.

Buck

I started on my buddies Lee LoadMaster. I bought a Hornady LnL. He bought one 5 years and hundreds of hours of frustration later.

I read a lot about starting out on a single stage. Some folks allowed as how it was VERY SLOW to load much pistol on one.

I can load one bullet at a time on the progressive. I can't load one bullet at a time on a single stage. I can't load 200in an hour on a single stage.

LOTS of ways you can get started. I began with a Lee Loader in 357, and by the time I could afford a press I'd borrowed and read several reloading manuals. I settled on a Lee Turret Press for several reasons. First and foremost, you set your dies in the turret, and never have to mess with them (or screw up the settings) ever again, unless you want to. Caliber changes take about 15 seconds, pop the turret and shellholder out, and pop the new ones in. I now have about 25 turrets, each with its own set of dies and a pre-set powder measure on the pistol calibers. The press has been neutered to single-stage since the day I bought it, and I prefer it that way.

I do all my priming off-press with a hand-held tool, I used to use the Lee but it was too fragile, now I have a Hornady and it works pretty well. I can prime 500 pieces of brass in a couple hours while watching a baseball game, or even at work when all I have to do is keep an eye on things.

Once the brass is prepped and primed, I begin the loading process by flaring the neck and dropping powder all in the same step, using Lee dies. When the whole batch is done (I generally do 300 at a time) I inspect for consistent powder charges, then seat bullets and crimp. I can load 300 rounds an hour when starting with primed brass.

Spend what it costs to get a good scale, and a powder trickler is handy for rifle loads. A good volumetric powder measure is also a wonderful time-saver, I like the Lee Pro Auto Disk, and Lee Dies. Cheaper than most, just as good for most uses, and the shellholder is free. I have a lot of Lee Dies, and zero complaints about them. Others like RCBS or Hornady, we all have our favorites, depending on the way we load. Talk to as many reloaders as you can, to get varied perspectives.

But as was said, the FIRST step is to get a reloading manual or three, and read them until you understand not just the HOW of each step, but the WHY.

That Hornady kit will have almost everything to get you started. I would however not recommend the Hornady because they use the bushing to secure the die in the press. I like the Lyman Tmag II turret press, RCBS and Redding also have turret presses but are somewhat more expensive. Other than that all you really need is the kit, dies for each cartridge you shoot, a tumbler, quality caliper (I can't stress that enough). Any of the current reloading manuals will provide detailed step by step instructions on the process. Once you've been handloading for a while you'll see what works for you and what don't. I started out with a Lee turret press and all the standard hand tools, have since upgraded to an RCBS Power Station which really speeds the case prep and to a Lyman DPS3 dispenser. Take your time and learn the basics then start tinkering with your equipment.

An Iron Press, Dies & shell holders, A good scale, Vernier caliper, Lee Priming tool, Sturdy bench, and a current loading manual. Good quality equipment is worth it.
Cast Lead bullets, primers, and powder. Nice thing about cast bullets, CHEAP, Easy on the bore, accurate, and did I say CHEAP? Some guns don't like lead. I have heard that Glocks aren't recommended for lead bullets.

Most anything else is just FROSTING on the cake. Eventually you'll need:
A tumbler, a trimmer, maybe a progressive press, primer pocket brush & a reamer, More guns, more dies, more powder, bullet molds, casting furnace, lubri-sizer, more molds, more dies, more guns, Primers.....Help me, My wife never sees me anymore, I'm reloading and going to the range in ALL my spare time.....AAAAAAGGGHHHH!!!!!!

Snowman/Andy - I did forget to put that in there...I'm not exactly sure yet how much I'll shoot. I know...that sounds dumb as heck. I like to shoot a lot, but what has been stopping me is the expense. That's why I'm considering reloading my own. The other day I just went out and bought 200 rounds (.40S&W) of Federal Champion so I could go shoot and it was $65 at Walmart. That was the cheapest I could find here, without having to buy a case that I couldn't afford. I know I'll go through that 200 rounds like nothing tomorrow when I go to the range. So, I would say when I get going, I could easily do around 400-500 rounds a month or so. Possibly even more. If I have the rounds in front of me, I'll definitely go shoot them. LOL Also, thank you for your list of tools as well.

Harrison - Looks like I'm going to Barnes & Noble tomorrow to pick up a couple of reloading manuals to start out and read those. I appreciate the tip on that from everyone. I'll pick up the Lyman one and another as well.

I've heard to start out with the single stage so I know how the process works and then go from there. I have no problem with that and I can fully understand starting out slow. I really don't know if handloading 500 rounds a month is a lot or not because I have never done it before. I'm not sure how much time that would truly encompass. I'm just guessetmating at 500 rounds. Maybe it will be less when I start this process, then again, maybe I will want it to be more. I just don't want to jump in over my head and buy an progressive setup, spend a ton of money and then find out I do 200 rounds a month and don't really care for it. I really don't think that will happen, but you never know.

Redlevel - I totally understand your point about time. I do work graveyard shift, so I have weird days/times off, so I'm not exactly sure yet on when I would be doing the reloading. However, I do have days when the wife is at work and I'm home, so I could do it mostly then.

38Airweight - Thank you for the list of your process and what you bought and when. That kind of helps me get an idea as well.

Haggis/Buck - Thank you for the link! I'll definitely read that over as well.

Papajohn - I do kind of like the idea of the turret press now that you have mentioned it. Only because it seems like a good idea that if I wanted to change dies (I may get a 9mm handgun in the future & would reload that as well as the .40S&W), it seems easier so that I don't have to mess up the dies once they are set up. Plus, if I can do single stage now, but then change it later, if I feel comfortable with the process, then that might not be a bad thing. I also agree with the knowing of "why" everything is done. I'm very analytical like that and it makes more sense to me when I know why something is done. Then I "get it" and it clicks for me. So, I'm glad you mentioned that.

ILLWIND - LOL...ya, I think my wife is going to be afraid of that happening too, but that's why I'm trying to include her in on the shooting too, so I can say...Honey, I have to go make some rounds for BOTH of us.

So...I'm gathering that getting a progressive/automated type setup for a first time reloader would probably be a bad idea, even if I'm reloading a lot? Plus, what would someone consider reloading "a lot"? Would my 500 rounds a month qualify/quantify for a progressive setup or would a single stage be more than enough? Just your thoughts...I know no one can say exactly for sure, but I know you all have done reloading a LOT more than I have (zero. LOL), so I'm going off the experienced people here.

Again, I thank everyone for helping out and giving me things to think about. I also appreciate the list of tools that I would need. I'm already writing down a list of what I need, so I can start going from there.

Mat

__________________
Mat - M&P 40c & 40 Shield

I know all the long-time and die-hard perfectionist re-loaders are going to cringe at this, but if you just load for one caliber on a casual basis and stick with one powder....it's easy. I have a Lee hand press (about as big as an office staple-gun) a set of dies and a powder funnel. A buddy gave me a couple of powder dippers and we calibrated my charges on his scales. I basically have a stock factory load dipper and a target load dipper. If you calibrate your dippers so they throw the same charge each time and you use the same powder and slug each time, you don't need the scales. I have less than $100 invested in my equipment and all of it will fit in a shoe-box. I am loading for 38-special for which case length is not all that critical, so I do not have a case trimmer, or need to measure and trim each case after firing. I realize that loading for an auto requires a little more care and attention to case length, but in a wheel-gun....if it will chamber it will fire.

You can usually find dies and even good used presses off places like e-bay. You can find the new stuff from places like Midway, or Cheaperthandirt for close to the same price as it is sometimes listed on e-bay.

If you are a competition shooter, or a perfectionist ....sure, you need a lot more detail and attention, but for the knock-around shooter...it's not that expensive to roll-your-own. There is no telling how many rounds have been loaded with that little self contained Lee loader with which you beat the bullet together with a rubber mallet and don't even need a press. It does not have to be rocket-science.

Mat,

You probably won't save a lot of money with reloading, you'll just shoot a lot more rounds for the same cost, if you're like the rest of us.

500 rounds a month is about on the border between a single stage and a progressive. A turret press is just a single stage press with all of the dies adjusted only one time. That will save you setup time, so it will be faster than a single stage. That may be your best choice at this time.

I started on a single stage RockChucker. I still use it for small runs of less frequently used ammunition. I also have a Dillon 650 set up for .45 ACP since I shoot USPSA, ICORE, and PPC with that caliber using both 1911's and revolvers, and that 800 rounds per hour raw throughput is necessary to be able to spend more time shooting. In reality, I only get about 400 rounds per hour since I periodically check powder weights and case/crimp condition. I also do secondary checks for high primers on each round, and each round is case-gauged before it's used.

I suspect you will enjoy reloading however you choose to do it. Have fun.

Buck

Find someone you know who already reloads. Ask them for advise and instruction. Having someone walk you through the steps is better than just reading it from a book. Been there and tried it myself. A mentor makes a world of difference.

You can reload on anything from a Lee "wack-a-mole'' reloader to a multi-thousand dollar progressive. What you NEED is a source of pressure-tested data (a reloading manual), a scale accurate to a tenth of a grain (to accurately measure powder), and calipers capable of measuring to a thousandth of an inch. Everything else, in my mind, is optional.

And yes, I'm sure there are reloaders that have gotten by without manuals, scales, or calipers...

"Whack-a-mole"....that's a good one! The first time I saw anybody reloading with those things, I wanted to go hide in another room....but they work. I am a little bit on the cheapskate side with my reloading gear. I have enough time consuming expensive hobbies and did not want another one. If production is a non-issue and you only need a few now and then....KISS is the principle. I started because I like to shoot 32 stuff as well as 38. Just about anything you can buy ready-made in 32 is sky-high, but you can re-load for the price of 22LR, if you happen to have a buddy that will cast all the bullets you need.

By all means...if you are not sure of what you are pouring in that case, you better know what kind of powder you have and how much, so I certainly would not discount the need for scales, or at least stick to well calibrated dippers. I load on the conservative side anyway, which I think is a good idea for the beginner. If you cannot afford a good manual, I found pages-n-pages of good data off websites from trusted people. Folks here on this form will often share their well-loved loads too.

There is one thing that I will not do. I will not shoot another mans re-load until I see him shoot a few through his gun first, or he is a trusted friend.

I bought my first reloading gear, it was a Lee Handloader, they still make them, cost me about $18.50. Then all you need is primers,powder,cases & a hammer

Just don't buy any cheap electronic scale! They drift like crazy - you start out loading 3.1 grains and in fifteen minutes it still says 3.1 but you're actually loading 4.2. Penny wise pound foolish, that. Not to mention dangerous.

Agree that a Lee Loader is a perfectly good way to start. It'll make you think about what each operation does, and that will make you a better reloader in the long run. Dunno if they make one for your cartridge, though.

And hey! Don't run down the "whack-a-mole" seater. I still use handmade versions for my Hornet and .22-3000 Lovell. They're more accurate than most press dies.

For pistol cartridges, you can get off to a very good start, and possibly acceptable finish with:
- a case-cleaning device, such as a tumbler/vibrator or etc. to clean fired cases.
- A Lee handpress tool, and a die set for your caliber(s).
- A set of Lee volumetric powder measure dippers
- A Lee loading manual
- A Lee AutoPrime manual priming tool
- A set of "loading blocks" --- plastic trays, similar to icecube trays, to hold cases upright/in position
- A beam-balance powder scale, to keep the Lee powder dippers "honest".
- A case-mouth chamfering/deburring tool
- Calipers to measure case/overall cartridge length, etc.

You'll eventually want to add some other tools, such as a case trimming device, etc., but this inexpensive kit will get you started at low cost, fair efficiency, and the ability to test and refine your loads, a few at a time, rather than in large lots. These simple tools can be used at the kitchen counter, for example, and don't require dedicated shop space --- a real advantage for the beginning reloader. Good Luck, and HTH.

Spend as much as you are able on your calipers and scales. Regardless of the machine you choose, your measurements will always be critical.

I really appreciate everyone's help. I'm waiting for my manuals to come in so I can read them and go from there.

Looks like a turret system might be the way to go to start out for me. It would be nice to be able to set the dies for what I need and then not have to reset them. Albeit just check them here and there to make sure nothing has changed.

But, again, I really do appreciate everyone's input on this and it has helped me immensely! Thank you!

Mat

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Mat - M&P 40c & 40 Shield