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05-18-2011, 11:36 PM
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New model 63
My search for a good .22 that I will shoot without losing sleep has come to an end. I found an original model 63 with 4" barrel. I am trying to place what year it was made because the information I have says that all serial numbers start with a M. The serial number of this gun is 034xx. Anyone of an idea when this model 63 was made?
I also had a bit of a problem opening the cylinder. Sometimes it opens easily and other times it seems like it is jammed so I need to use more force to open. This is my first stainless gun, but that shouldn't mean anything. Anyone have any ideas. The gun has certainly been used as there is a noticeable turn line on the cylinder, and there are some marks around the firing pin as well as some black scratches at the end of the barrel.
Thank you.
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05-19-2011, 01:41 AM
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As to "cylinder jamming" you might check the gap between the rear of the barrel and the cylinder. The J-Frame .22s I have seen and heard about have a tendency to be rather tight.
Secondly make sure the area under the ejector star on the cylinder is clean and free of burrs and such.
Thirdly check the ejector rod to be sure it is screwed all the way in.
Others of more experience than me will hoepfully post additional help.
You have a fine S&W. I bought one for my wife who has small hands. She loves it.
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05-19-2011, 06:47 AM
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Semperfi71 hit the big things to look for. Take a couple of close up pictures of the cylinder rear and post them. That could give us a clue.
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05-19-2011, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peyton
Semperfi71 hit the big things to look for. Take a couple of close up pictures of the cylinder rear and post them. That could give us a clue.
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I will do that tonight. I will also look at everything Semperfi71 suggested. Thank you both.
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05-20-2011, 01:10 PM
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Here are some pictures.
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05-20-2011, 01:12 PM
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More pictures. Hopefully these pictures will help.
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05-20-2011, 04:35 PM
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The bottom part of the forcing cone isn't completely round. It looks normal, but my other guns it looks completely round. Could that be the problem?
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05-20-2011, 10:50 PM
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If you mean the exterior, bottom of the forcing cone it may be "shaved" a bit to allow the cylinder to fit. This is found on M&P, M10s, M19s, and M66 revolvers as well.
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05-21-2011, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by semperfi71
If you mean the exterior, bottom of the forcing cone it may be "shaved" a bit to allow the cylinder to fit. This is found on M&P, M10s, M19s, and M66 revolvers as well.
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Yes that is what I mean. It does look normal, but my other revolvers don't have that so I wasn't sure if that could be a part of the problem.
I tried all your other suggestions, but problem is still there.
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05-21-2011, 01:31 PM
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To date the revolver, you need to get the number of the butt
For a round about date, your 63 was made between 1982 and 1999
One photo shows what looks kike wood grips. Uncle mike grips started in 1994
This would put your revolver between 1982 and 1994
If you would, pull the hammer back a little until the cylinder can freely turn. If it appears to bind up then it would probably be cylinder related
Does it bind up after being fired a few times?
You can do the same check with fired cases. Make sure all rounds have been fired before you pull the hammer back
Does the trigger pull get much more difficult when it binds?
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05-21-2011, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falguy
To date the revolver, you need to get the number of the butt
For a round about date, your 63 was made between 1982 and 1999
One photo shows what looks kike wood grips. Uncle mike grips started in 1994
This would put your revolver between 1982 and 1994
If you would, pull the hammer back a little until the cylinder can freely turn. If it appears to bind up then it would probably be cylinder related
Does it bind up after being fired a few times?
You can do the same check with fired cases. Make sure all rounds have been fired before you pull the hammer back
Does the trigger pull get much more difficult when it binds?
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I finally got the grips off, and the serial number is M1853XX which should put it in 1981.
It is harder to open the cylinder once I fire it a few times. Trigger pull feels the same to me, but once I fire the gun a few times, it is hard to open the cylinder. It does sound like a cylinder problem from what you wrote.
The seller offered to take it back, but I would prefer to keep this gun. Any idea how to fix the problem?
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05-21-2011, 04:56 PM
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Don’t get rid of the gun but it is nice that the seller is trying to do the right thing
Scratch that. He’s trying to make things right with the buyer
Selling anything used is an ‘as is’ type sell. Manufacturers do warranties
Just as a guess, I think the fired brass is being pushed back too far
Did you pull the hammer back a little to see if the cylinder would freely turn? It probably wont with a cylinder full of fired casings
Sometimes there will be a small protrusion in the area of the firing pin that will do what you are describing
Open the cylinder and look very carefully at the frame where the cartridge rims would be rubbing. There could be a small imperfection on the frame that’s the problem. The ‘bump’ may only be .0001 so it will take a close inspection
Usually a little burned powder under the star will cause this problem. You may have a small imperfection that’s holding the star out as well. This may only be .0001 as well. The star has to fit perfectly flat. Any small burr might be causing the problem. Look closely underneath the star
Whatever is wrong with your gun is probably very easily fixed. I would bet a small bump or burr is what’s causing the problem.
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05-21-2011, 05:18 PM
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I bought mine new in Spring 1982 and the serial # is M147xxx so I would think yours is a good bit later than 1981. How much do you want for it? I had the same problem with mine when I got it. The guns are so tightly put together that the slightest bit of residue on the wrong spot will cause them to bind-which is not a bad thing mind you. Make sure the cylinder pin is screwed all the way in. Check your barrel cylinder gap, I'll wager it is very tight. I'll also wager that there is probably a good bit of carbon crud built up on the face of the cylinder and rear face of the forcing cone. Before you get to looking for burrs, soak it down in Hoppe's for a good couple of hours and then get to the areas mentioned with a good brass brush-don't forget under the star too. I'll bet that's all it takes. If you think it might be burrs-look ar the face of the fired shell casings for any unusual drag marks that would indicate binding. One other thing......is the ejector rod bent?? Some jacklegs have been known to use pliers and such to tightnen/untighten
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05-21-2011, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falguy
Don’t get rid of the gun but it is nice that the seller is trying to do the right thing
Scratch that. He’s trying to make things right with the buyer
Selling anything used is an ‘as is’ type sell. Manufacturers do warranties
Just as a guess, I think the fired brass is being pushed back too far
Did you pull the hammer back a little to see if the cylinder would freely turn? It probably wont with a cylinder full of fired casings
Sometimes there will be a small protrusion in the area of the firing pin that will do what you are describing
Open the cylinder and look very carefully at the frame where the cartridge rims would be rubbing. There could be a small imperfection on the frame that’s the problem. The ‘bump’ may only be .0001 so it will take a close inspection
Usually a little burned powder under the star will cause this problem. You may have a small imperfection that’s holding the star out as well. This may only be .0001 as well. The star has to fit perfectly flat. Any small burr might be causing the problem. Look closely underneath the star
Whatever is wrong with your gun is probably very easily fixed. I would bet a small bump or burr is what’s causing the problem.
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I already told the seller that I appreciated that he offered my money back so that I am happy, but that I would prefer to fix the gun and keep it. You don't find too many people out there who would offer to refund money on a thirty year old gun. The gun is in excellent condition except for this one issue, and hopefully it is easily fixed.
I have tried to pull the hammer back with no brass in the cylinder, and then slowly put the hammer forward so I wouldn't damage anything since it isn't a good idea to dry fire a .22. I still have a hard time releasing the cylinder.
I don't see any or feel any problem under the star. I think a very thorough cleaning up the cylinder would probably be a good idea.
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05-21-2011, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAJUNLAWYER
I bought mine new in Spring 1982 and the serial # is M147xxx so I would think yours is a good bit later than 1981. How much do you want for it? I had the same problem with mine when I got it. The guns are so tightly put together that the slightest bit of residue on the wrong spot will cause them to bind-which is not a bad thing mind you. Make sure the cylinder pin is screwed all the way in. Check your barrel cylinder gap, I'll wager it is very tight. I'll also wager that there is probably a good bit of carbon crud built up on the face of the cylinder and rear face of the forcing cone. Before you get to looking for burrs, soak it down in Hoppe's for a good couple of hours and then get to the areas mentioned with a good brass brush-don't forget under the star too. I'll bet that's all it takes. If you think it might be burrs-look ar the face of the fired shell casings for any unusual drag marks that would indicate binding. One other thing......is the ejector rod bent?? Some jacklegs have been known to use pliers and such to tightnen/untighten
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I was going by the S&W book, but it could be later since the pinned models were dropped in 1982.
There is a some carbon rings around face of the cylinder, and a fair amount of carbon build up on the rear face of the forcing cone. I think cleaning it will help. I don't want to take the cylinder off, what is the best way of soaking that part in Hoppes? I have a small amount I was going to use with a snake bore after firing the gun.
Ejector rod looks good. I don't believe this gun is pinned.
Thanks for your help (and everyone's help on this thread)
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