I am not a Smith Person. I have never taken one apart. Will standard instructions be enough for my 44 Special. I need to get a look inside and make sure I get it dried out. I got drownded while hunting last weekend and the Smith was on my side as usual.

Standard instuctions will apply, I have a new 625 JM and there wasn't anything unusual abot it at all. However, all of the N frames I have feature a trigger stop rod inside the rebound spring and I know from personal experience that if you install in backwards it WILL cause the trigger to lock up depending on the position you hold the gun in. Pay very close attention to it's orientation when you remove it and put it back in with that same orientation. I'll also warn you that removing the cylinder stop can be rather fussy, you may want to consider just blowing it dry with canned air for computer keyboards and then giving it a drop of oil. I'll also warn you to leave the hand mounted on the trigger, getting the hand spring back in place is another very fussy bit of work.

Final note, you are aware that the sideplate has to be tapped free of it's nest and NOT pryed out. If not, I would suggest you pay a gunsmith to clean it up and order the S&W Shop Manual by Jerry Kuhnhausen for future reference.

Thanks scooter123. I have never had this thing apart and I have been previously warned about the side plate. I want to learn to do this myself because I know this will not be my last cleaning and I like to learn to do the general cleaning on all my guns. I am checking this site now for instructions. I don't want to take the thing apart, just do the cleaning necessary to protect the weapon. I will look for a thread for some help. You get some great pics from folks. Some of the best pics and instructions come from the real newbees. Ain't the internet grand.

Groo here
If you need to dry out the gun use WD40..
This product was made to dry out electrical connections ..
Or remove grips and soak in K-1 clear over night and allow to drip dry.\
[Also cleans GUNK from inside .. old gunsmith trick]

First of all, don't go anywhere near the side plate screws without the proper screwdriver tips. Even one removal with a poorly fitting screwdriver will bugger the slots. Second, removing a side plate is fairly easy, but it must be done correctly. Never pry the side plate off. You rap on the grip frame, or simply dry fire a few times, and let it work loose gently. Don't force it back on, examine how it fits in and work it on gently.

Before removing the side plate, try this: Remove the stocks. Get a can of aerosol gun scrubber and spray into all the openings around the trigger mechanism until it is dripping out. Many suggest WD-40 for this, you can use it if you prefer but personally I don't like it for guns. Let it all drip out on a towel for a while, then do the same thing but with a can of Remoil. Once again, spray until oil is dripping out of every opening. Let it drain for a while, then work the action some to disperse it. Wipe the revolver clean and you should be good to go, with much less chance of damaging something. If the action feels gritty after this, then you can consider removing the side plate for a thorough cleaning.

The revolver got dunked a week ago? Get it cleaned out as soon as possible.

Dan

Thanks for the instruction and advice. I bought some Gun Scrubber and I removed the grips and the side plate. The transfer bar fell out but I got it back in place. I blasted away with the Scrubber and wiped it out good after a little scrubbing with an old tooth brush. It looked very clean and no water or problems from being wet were seen. I oiled her up good and put everything back as it came out. I did a little dry firing and all is well. Oh, I did dry fire it two times to loosen the side plate. That worked perfectly. Thanks again. I do not see me disassembling any further unless I have a broken part or something.