I have a badly pitted firing pin bushing on my 686-6 4" 357. How hard is it to replace the bushing? Here's a pic of the bushing... it doesn't matter what brass or primer I use I always manage to get burned through primers... loads are medium range loads using 158gr SWC's at about 1K fps....I will even experience this with factory ammo as well...

Replacing that firing pin bushing is not a do-it-yourself job.

It requires an experienced gunsmith with the proper tools including the special punches needed to drive out the old bushing, and the special staking tool to install the replacement bushing. And then polishing (grinding) down the new bushing flush with the recoil shield is the last step, along with gaging for headspace clearance.

Isn't the gun still under warranty? I think I'd let S&W take care of that. Something's not right.

I agree, something is certainly NOT right about that, I've never seen a firing pin bushing in that condition. I also agree that the best place to have this corrected is the factory and your 686-6 is covered under the lifetime warranty so your only cost will be driving it to a Fed Ex shipping center. However you will probably be informed that you should have contacted S&W when you first noticed this problem instead of waiting that bushing got this bad. I'd also keep mum about shooting your own reloads, technically it voids the warranty and in this case they just don't need to know you reload. Finally, from what I've read a phone call to Customer Service results in a lot quicker response compared to email.

First one of these I've seen. Definately not cool.. Is the primer "burn through" coming through the firing pin indention in the primer or around the edge of the primer. Could you possibly do some pictures of the shells? A picture of the firing pin ,in the fired position,( Extended through the bushing) Might explain a lot. Especially before it goes to S&W, and after it comes back. This is just amazing to me. I would have expected the erosion at the hole. I can't vision how it is getting to the edge.
Mike

DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND SEND IT BACK. THE HAMMER NOSE / FIRING PIN DOES NOT LOOK CORRECT. IT LOOKS AS THOUGH IT MAY BE PIERCING THE PRIMER CAUSING ALL YOUR PROBLEMS. JIM P

Thanks for the replys.. it will most likely go back to S&W.. the gun is 14years old with about 4K rounds through it. I'll be contacting them Monday,

ok.. been a few weeks and a update.. I FINALLY called S&W Wednesday the 30th and explained the problem.. I was asked the serial number and before I could barely get out the last digit of the s/n they said the want the gun sent in asap.... and they are sending me a shipping label.....hhmmm...... I did check the rear cylinder gap with a several cases and the average is 0.011" gap... front gap is normal at 0.004" Is the rear gap excessive? I'm thinking that it is and when the gun fires the primer backs out , blows out the side and then gets slapped back in when the case gets pushed back...sounds plausable? Well anyway S&W wants the gun back and it as soon as I get the label, hopefully first part of this week, back it goes...

NOW---I am a fan of MIM parts--IF--they are properly made.
I am thinking this was a bad batch of MIM parts.
Slap me silly if I am wrong---my face is numb from this.
Blessings

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TEXAS, by GOD

I highly doubt if the firing pin bushings are MIM. The MIM process is actually rather expensive and only produces a cost savings on parts with a complex shape that would either require multiple machining steps or hand fitting. These bushings can be produced automatically on a CnC Lathe at high speed with exceptional accuracy so using MIM would be vastly more expensive.

The most likely cause is a lot was made that wasn't tempered properly after being heat treated. If so S&W may be treating this as a warranty issue and not issuing a recall because it doesn't seem to have effected function, it's just plain ugly.

Unfortunately, I expect that we never know the true cause because I have no doubt that the paperwork will say anything more than "replaced firing pin and bushing".

The picture is quite revealing. It doesn't appear as if you're piercing primers. If so, the erosion would mostly be at the firing pin hole. It looks as if the hot gases are coming from around the primer pocket. Recheck your load data and your powder measure. Make sure you're not using small rifle primers by mistake. Normally, once fired pistol brass can handle rifle primer, but your chamber pressure would prolly be beyond spec. After that the primer pocket gets iffy. If you're using magnum small pistol primers, maybe it's time for new brass.

Thing is that while your load data seems fairly mild, something is causing a problem. It could just be a bad bushing, but when you get your revolver back with the new bushing, you might want to try a box or 2 of factory ammo, just to make sure that the problem doesn't reappear, just to eliminate that as a variable.

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NRA Benefactor

Back in the late 80's there was a recall for the 586, and 686.
The repair was to replace the firing pin, firing pin spring, rivit, and bushing. check the bbl cyl gap, end shake, etc, and test fire 6 rounds on 357. also stamp an "M" on the frame under the yoke. The reason for the recall was a pierced primer problem. I did the mod on some where in the vacinity of 200 guns as a repair station in central california. To my knowledge the mod took care of the problem Paul J

I've read that the recall was because the firing pin/ firing pin bushing fit was too loose, causing the primers' brass to flow in the free space between them and binding the gun. Is that correct or is it just another myth?

Alejandro.

You could be correct on the primer flow, as I recollect is was a pierced primer problem, but Its been a few years since the recall. Part of the refit of parts was to gauge the new pin dia, and the bushing hole. Paul J

I believe the recall was only for no dash, and -1 models.

Someone correct me if I am wrong.

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NRA Instructor

Here is a photo of the tools used to do the mod on 586 686 recall. that is if I figured out how to attach it. Paul J

Attached Images

swtools.jpg (115.4 KB, 283 views)

the problem occured as soon as I first fired the gun with factory ammo.. as stated in my first post this primer burn through occurs with factory AND my handloads and ANY primer I have used (CCI, Federal, Winchester, Remington) as for my loadings, I use 6.0gr 231 with a 158gr SWC Laser cast bullet. 1050fps average.

AleAlonso, you are correct, the original recall was for an oversize hole in the firing pin bushing causing primer flow-back into the hole and locking up the gun. I know I had one back then and it went back. I still have it and have no problems since. These were on no dash guns, and possibly on -1 guns.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

ok.. yet another update.. got the return label on the Dec.7th and sent it off on the 8th.. got a letter from S&W on the 17th stating that they received my handgun and to expect it to be returned in 2-3 weeks.... and just a few hours ago.. got a call from FedEx that my 686 is on it's way and will be delivered tomorrow!! Funny thing though is that the FedEx tracking shows that the package was picked up at Windsor Locks, CT a tad bit away from the S&W repair shop where my 686 was sent.....

*Update*
FedEx dropped of my 686 a little while ago.. all S&W did was to replace the bushing and the firingpin.....I have 2 boxes of brand new Federal 158gr JFP I'll try tomorrow....I don't have my hopes up as the problem wasn't pierced primers by the firingpin.....

Fired the 100rnds of Federal with no problems and 100rnds of local manufactured 158gr SWC's... now to try my handloads...tomorrow.....