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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 11-15-2011, 09:04 PM
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Coldshooter Coldshooter is offline
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My oldest revolver was given to me by my Father In Law and is a 5 Screw .38 special. At what point should a competant gunsmith look at a cylinder which still moves when the hammer is down and locked. I estimate the movement to be perhaps 1-2 millimeters not sure of degrees. I have not fired this one because I do not want to damage it. Since my other S&Ws are newer I don't know what to expect. Thanks.

Nick
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:12 AM
Waidmann Waidmann is offline
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Do you mean in a fully cocked position, with the cylinder stop at its full height?
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Old 11-17-2011, 12:50 PM
Green Frog Green Frog is offline
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With empty (fired cases) in all chambers, cycle the revolver as though it were being fired, but hold the trigger down at the end of the stroke. At that point, the cylinder should be locked up at its best and exhibit little or no movement.

At that point, movement = wear and/or problems and needs to be addressed, probably with a new part or two. Just a WAG, but I imagine the cylinder stop is to blame, assuming the notches on the cylinder are not completely wallowed out.

Equally important is the way a revolver comes up to lock before the hammer falls. If you pull the trigger very slowly, you should hear two distinct clicks as the hand and cylinder stop move into place. Finally, you can use a bore-diameter range rod to check bore-to-chamber alignment for each chamber, and know that all is as it should be!

Froggie
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Old 11-17-2011, 02:44 PM
Bluelou Bluelou is offline
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If you would like to tinker with it yourself pick up a copy of Jerry kuhnhausen book (the s&w revolver a shop manual) you can get the book from midway USA.this book is great and you will use it the rest of your life.good luck.
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