I missed this thread earlier, but yes, I've been there ... well, not sure about VA, but the only Hatfield / McCoy trails I know of are in West Virginia near the very southern border, Logan County, near the tiny town of Man.
It was alot of fun. We camped at a campground called Paradise Island. The owner was a Christian woman and was very accomodating. She reminded us that it was bear country, so I was glad that I had a big revolver, just in case.
The trails are rated at 3 different skill levels. We rode them all on dual sport dirt bikes, myself on a Honda XR650. The extreme rated ones are pretty wicked, but I'm pretty used to taking dirt bikes in the most extreme conditions I can find, and the 650 four stroke is like an unstoppable tractor, if you can stay on it. I had ridden the Blackwater 100 course before it was banned, including the famous Rt. 93 river crossing & mud cliff.
I don't know how crowded the trails would be these days, or how much they've expanded. It was about 8 yrs ago when I was there. We liked it. There were plenty of rules and guys patroling on dirt bikes, so it seemed fairly safe, but you can end up many miles into some remote woods, riding on narrow ledges of mountains and looking a mile off the ledge into the valley. Its good to have yourself & your machine well prepared, and have tools, guns, etc., and don't take any riders on the extreme sections unless they are very good on their machines.
I don't recall if you can ride four wheelers in town, but we had plates on our dual sports, so we zipped around the highways to the different trail heads.
Josh P