I currently have in my possession, a blued Mod. 36 no-dash with pinned 3", non-bull barrel, round butt, SN 2901XX. It has 3 screws on the right side-plate,one under the right grip and the other 2 visible on the right side-plate. It is not a flat latch, and grips are not diamond grips. I was asked to evaluate and determine value for a friend of mine. I cleaned it up and found the following:
1. Bore and Cylinder holes are perfect, showing few shots fired.
2. There is "light" rust and light pitting on 60% of outside surfaces of the cylinder, and about 30% of the right side plate. Slight bluing wear on left side of muzzle. Back-strap bluing is dulled in comparison to the rest of the gun, probably due to light rusting. There are a few light pits along the top edge of the trigger guard from previous rust and a couple of light flecks on the left side. When you first look at the revolver, the bluing looks pretty good, however on closer inspection you see the blems.
3. I can feel the roughness from barely visible light pitting on the back-strap and on the top-strap.
4. There is a little marring on the bottom of the left side grip.
5. Grips SN same as revolver.
6. I shot 10 rounds of 148gr match ammo and 5 Federal +P Hydro-shocks thru it, and it functioned perfectly in both single & double action.
7. No box, tools, instructions or holster.
8. I have not taken the side plate off, but given the exterior condition, smoothness of the action during firing, and no evidence of the screws being tampered with, I am betting it's in good shape.
I suspect the revolver was left in it's holster and perhaps humidity got to it and caused the light rust. I have not included pictures because the rust is very subtle and hard to see, and I don't think the blems will show up.
If someone can recommend a safe way to remove some of the rust and pitting without seriously diminishing the quality of the bluing, I will very much appreciate your advice. I would like to clean it up a little, but not cause greater damage in the process.
Given the light rust and light marring on left grip, I am inclined to conclude this is more a shooter, than a collector, but I am open to your thoughts.
After researching the S&W Forum and GunBroker, I am inclined to value the revolver at $175, and I'd like to own it for this price. If I'm off on this, I would appreciate your thoughts on a fair and appropriate cash price.
I would also like thoughts on whether a re-blue would significantly increase or decrease value, and who you might recommend. I have never had a gun re-blued, so any estimate on cost to do so would also really help.

I know I am asking a lot, and I will be very appreciative of your thoughts and experience with a situation like this.

Thank you for your consideration,

Beemerider

About six years ago I bought this round butt for around $275 or $300s. I got lucky, it was advertised as just being in excellent shape. It looked new in the box with the tools and paperwork. I am positive it was new in the box. If you can get it for around $175s, I would buy it. BUT I wouldnt stick another $200s or so in a refinish BECAUSE that would put you at a price where I belive you could find another in excellent shape with a little looking. PLUS you would never get your $375 out of it being refinished. Just buy it and shoot the heck out of it. It probley will do you the same job as a new one would.here mine is, I put goodyears on it to pack.

I will simply remark that with a serial number in the 290000 range, it should absolutely have diamond stocks, which is perplexing since you say the non-diamond ones on it are numbered to the gun. Unless we're talking a serial number that's actually 2901JX or J2901XX.

It doesn't sound like it's in primo collectible condition, in any event. Myself, I wouldn't get into it for anything over two bills given the issues you cite, and I wouldn't be investing anything into refinishing it, either. Bronze wool with a penetrating oil should do wonders in cleaning up the lightly rusted areas.

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SWCA #590
"Colligo ergo sum"

Weird that its not a flat latch and no diamonds,
I have a Model marked 38 Airweight serial 29200x with both.
Perhaps it went back to the factory ?

If that S/N is correct that gun was probably mfg in 1961. Did you get it off the butt plate? On a round butt J frame that's the easiest place to get it. The above posts are correct in their advice. I also don't understand the non diamond grips. If they are #'d to the gun with that SN they should be Diamond magnas.

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John 1:17
NRA Life Benefactor

I have this gun, with diamonds, flat latch, square butt, non-bull barrel, and I'm less than 10 digits from your serial number. The stocks are wrong, in my opinion, and the latch is wrong. 1961-2, they would have diamonds and flat latch.

If I saw a 3" Model 36 in the described condition for $175, it would be mine.

Thanks very much for your time and assistance. I bought it tonight for the $175 and both the seller and I are happy. I'm going to try the Bronze wool with penetrating oil, as it makes sense in that the bronze wool should be softer than the steel of the revolver and the oil should provide a good lubricant and carry off some of the debris. Good call; I'll let you know how it works out.
I removed the grips tonight and looked at the SN on inside of right grip using my magnifying glass, and sure enough is is 290120; same as on the bottom of the grip frame. The left grip has J stamped on it. I suppose some clever Dude, could have taken a set of the later style grips and stamped the gun's serial number on them, but that seems like a lot of effort for not much gain. Both the flat latch and grips are a mystery for this SN. If I can find a flat latch with comparable bluing and a set of diamonds at a reasonable price, it might be nice to get it closer to correct, however as several have noted; it's a shooter. Per p. 414 in Std. Catalog, it definitely has a Traditional latch, perhaps a replacement. Engine49Guy brings an interesting perspective in that it could have gone back to the factory, or to a dealer who didn't have the correct parts, but supplied parts that would work.
In any event, you guys have been great and I hope to be able to help another member in a similar way. Your helpful efforts speak volumes to the quality of the membership on this Forum.
Thanks again,
Beemerrider

I dont know how many times I have seen "guru`s" say "nope, aint possible etc. It aint in the book etc. Well maybe whoever wrote the book made a mistake too! Just who is going to fake something to make a couple bucks on a deal where they probley would be makeing a dime a hour for their time to do it? If I tried writeing a know it all book, I doubt it would really make me a "expert". My problem is I have known a few of those "experts".

For $50 the gun can be lettered and it will erase all doubt as to it's original configuration.

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John 1:17
NRA Life Benefactor

What the...

Someone point me to the line where they sell sub $200 finish challenged 3" J frames. I want one. Or two.

Does it really matter what it's original configuration was? A collector grade gun it is not. I wouldn't bother with a letter. Sounds like you got a good, solid, working revolver at a great price. And it's the kind of gun that you don't have to worry about getting dirty. If it dissapoints you, send it my way and I'll even let you tack on 20% for your troubles!
Last year I bought a Ruger Super Black Hawk for $200. It had laid long in a damp basement and had the surface rust to prove it. I took it apart and soaked all of the metal parts in automatic transmission fluid for a week. Then gently rubbed with 0000 steel wool. Although the rust was removed, the finish remained lightly freckled. But it shot great. Ended up trading it to a friend for an old 32 Reg Police as the 44 mag is a little rough on my wrist. I will not likely find another 44 mag that cheap!
John

I bought this Model 36 (no dash) on GunBroker a few weeks ago for $170. I cleaned the rusty spots with Kroil and 0000 steel wool, cold blued the scratches, oiled the grips, then disassembled it and cleaned the rust and gunk out of the lockwork. It cycles nicely now. Here are before and after pictures. Before pictures were from the auction listing. It was Gunbroker auction #273876542. Sometimes the ones with unflattering pictures and descriptions turn out better than expected.

Attached Images

	model 36 before-1.jpg (27.2 KB, 56 views)
	model 36 before-2.jpg (31.1 KB, 51 views)
	model 36 after - 1.jpg (60.4 KB, 53 views)
	Model 36 after-2.jpg (96.5 KB, 52 views)

It only matters what the original config. is to the OP. If he doesn't care to know (I know I wouldn't) then so be it. If he feels he needs to know he has an option. I wasn't trying to say he should letter the 36. Just that the option is available if he felt compelled to know & had an extra $50 to spend.

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John 1:17
NRA Life Benefactor

I'll try to get pictures up in a day or two, now that my camera is back in action.

Thanks, Beemerrider