I want to change the color of my M&p 15-22, also if it looks and holds up good also do something with my Sigma 9MM and maybe a tactical shotgun. I have been looking at different coatings, and want to do it myself. I have different sprayers (4 and 16oz gravity HVLP and a couple conventional sprayers with air compressors and have painted some trucks and sealed cabinets and other woodwork. I know someone who can sand blast if for me if needed. I dont want to send it in and pay $$$, more than I paid for the gun, when I can do it and learn in the process. Also I want to do multiple colors (at least 2 in a camo like job with netting. Any input and past or present experiences will be greatly appreciated. If you have good reviews of any of the options, could you tell where you got the product from? Also if it is a bake finish what temps
Thank You

I went with duracoat for the many choices in colors and patterns.

The key is to do all necessary prep work. If their stencils aren't what you're looking for try BulldogArms.com.

WU_Who, Nice work! How long since you did those guns? How tough is it to scratch?

Did the 870 about a year ago and it has held up well. There is one spot on the extension that flaked off but I am sure it was due to an oily surface. I removed the "rib cage" optics mount thinking it was gonna scratch it but nope. The Cx4 I did I October. From my understanding duracoat is more like an epoxy. Really tough stuff and easy to work with in an airbrush and 1/2 horsepower compressor.

Oh and thank you. Gotta love putting a personal touch to your firearms. Next is a digital camo in the pattern of captain america's sheild for the 15-22.

Air dry Cerakote. I tested it on three finishes. Blasted steel, sanded steel and steel that was just scrubbed with steel wool. After drying, I took a drill bit and tried scratching the stuff, it is really tough. Yes the bit will scratch it, but you really had to try. So I did my 15-22 rails, and my 870, really easy to use and tough.

Looks like good reviews for all 3. Any bad reviews?

Did all 3 perform the same, what way did you prep?

I haven't researched this much so this is a great thread. What I'm noticing is that you guys are talking about airbrush and compressors. Is there a rattle can option that works well or are all of these just available as a real deal paint job set up?

cerakote-prep is every thing

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Duracoat offers a rattle can kit for a reasonable price.

DuraCoat Norwegian Army

The link above shows a list of the various kits you can get. That is one of many patterns available.

Its hard to find accessories in the FDE color so im interested in this too. Would like to do my mags and stock in FDE. I think Duracoat is going to be my choice.

Hayden.

So prep and clean. do you take off the quad rail or just wrap something around the barrel? Also, are you stripping out your upper and lower or just taping stuff off?

From my research:
With Duracoat you can just tape and paint if you want to strip you can but with the thicker finish you have to tape the tighter areas anyway.
With Gun-Kote or Cerakote you have to bake so everyone strips it down.
Also for the barrel a guy said he slid a paper towel roll down the outside of the barrel and taped off, sound like a great idea to me.

I think right now I am leaning toward Duracoat for the 15-22, because I dont know about baking the gun and scope, and Gun-Kote for my sigma slide. Unless some makes me think different.

Polymer and Duracoat where meant for each other as long as you keep up on prep and handling. Plus it's just "paint", if it isn't to your liking sand and try again. ;]

I have had good luck with Aluma-Hyde II from World's Largest Supplier of Gun Parts, Gunsmith Tools & Shooting Accessories - Brownells
ALUMA-HYDE® II - Brownells

I just purchased a can of "Coyote" Aluma-Hyde and tested it out on one of my 15-22 mags. It is very, VERY close to Magpul's FDE color. You definitely want to take the time and really do a good job on the prep work. After sanding/scuffing the surface make sure you wipe off the part real good. I use mineral spirits to get it clean of everything including fingerprints. Then when you are all done painting the item "WALK AWAY" and let it dry! Aluma-Hyde is dry to the touch in minutes but requires more time to fully cure.

I used Aluma-Hyde on my last 10/22 build, it turned out great and has taken a beating and still looks great.

That's just my 2 cents.