Instead of making 2 different threads, I'll do this. First, what 38 or 357 snubbie would you say has the best out of the box trigger?

Second, How much of a difference, feel and trigger wise, is their between the K frame and the L frame?

I find there is so much variation from gun to gun even within a model that you really can't say one frame or model is better than another.

I'd say, everything else being equal, a leaf mainspring gun (K, L, N) seems to have a better DA pull than the coil spring J frames. SA all seems about the same. K and L frames are similar. All personal opinion, and I'm sure others may have different ones.

__________________
Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

+1.........

The Ruger LCR is supposed to be some kind of DA wonder trigger, I have not tried one but if you are determined to pick a snubbie on the quality of DA trigger it would be due dilegence to try the LCR.

Sorry to admit on this forum, but I went with the LCR. It was lighter than the others I evaluated and it felt better in my hand. It has a good trigger pull and it's worth checking out, but you really have to go handle the gun(s) you're considering because most of the criteria is subjective. I originally went in looking at a .380 Bodygaurd. I checked out the LCP, but ended up with the LCR - my first Ruger. The .380's were just too small in my hand.

On the flip side, my buddy just found a 940 for me that I'm buying no matter what the trigger is like. Just need to get over to his place and give him some money.

__________________
18-4, 15-4

Out of the box a S&W revolver will typically have a double action trigger with a weight between 11 and 12.5 lbs. IMO these heavy triggers are due to concerns about liability. The good news is that it is actually very easy to tune these triggers to 8.5 lbs. in double action and have 100% reliability with almost any ammunition you can find. If you want to limit your ammo selection to Federal, Speer, or Winchester you can tune the trigger down to 8 lbs. without any misfires.

BTW, my experience recently is that Remington UMC and Sellier & Beloit are the 2 commonly available ammunitions that require a bit more power. I've also seen reports that the Winchester Winclean and Speer Cleanfire have very recalcitrant primers due to the use of lead free primers. Considering the cost of either of these "no lead" ammunitions I really don't consider them as practical.

Bascially, what I am telling you is that you'll want to plan on eight tuning the trigger for yourself or having a gunsmith do it for you. Because no matter what you purchase if it's a NEW S&W you will find the double action trigger rather heavy.

As for handling characteristics between the K and L frames in a snubbie, I think that the only noticable difference will be that the L frame will run 1 to 3 ounces heavier. Basically, a 7 shot 686 will be VERY close in weight to an older model 66 snubbie. It's one advantage to the 7 shooters, that extra chamber in the cylinder does reduce the weight. Go with a 6 shot 686 and you may notice it's a touch heavier than a model 66. However, with a 32 ounce revolver it will take someone with VERY sensitive hands to feel a 2 or 3 ounce difference in weight. As for the grip frame, the K and L frames share identical grip frames in the round butt snubbies, so no difference at all in the grip.

I am a Ruger fan but it would be the exception to find an out of the box Ruger trigger that beats the stock trigger on a K or L frame IMHO. Having said that I do agree that individual guns vary.

Seems there are a lot of threads lately concerning triggers. Most production guns have an adequate trigger, be it a revolver or an auto, from the manufacturer...granted some better than others. A match grade trigger requires extra attention...translation...$$$! Sometimes a person gets used to a certain feel and anything else is "horrible". My revolvers don't feel like my 3rd gens which don't feel like my 1911's which don't feel like M&P's and on and on. That, to me, is part of the fun...plus I stay away from most guns that have had a "trigger job"...box of chocolates you know...

No no, Scooter, the question about the difference between the K and L frame is totally separate from my question about snubbies.

"Out of the box" varies from individual gun to gun. MIM action parts were an attempt to reduce variability in stock guns without costly extra handwork in assembly. It seems to me K and L (from same eras) are esentially the same.

My "all purpose" 686 I kept at about 10# to shoot any and all ammo. Same with carry 442, which feels somewhat heavier than the 686 trigger although the trigger scale reads the same. Just deburred with the old weight springs.

My IDPA/SSR model 66 is nearer 7# with a strutted mainspring and lighter rebound spring, and is definitely in the "Federal Primer only" handload world, a range queen if you will. The main advantage to me of the K frame is the lower bore axis and staying well below IDPA weight limits with my Pachmayer Pro Gripper grips. An L frame can be made to have the same trigger. Several 686 SSRs are on the competition circuits.

__________________
Science plus Art