What basic equipment would I need to reload 38 Special, 357 Magnum and 9MM ammo? What would the approximate cost be? Can you suggest a few suppliers where I might obtain the equipment. Thanks for any help with this.

Well, I'll start this off. You will get a whole lot of suggestions and opinions as to what is best.

I think to start off, is how much do you think you will reload and how much money can you spend?

There is top of the line equipment (expensive but well built) there is less expensive that will get the job done but maybe not last several lifetimes.

If you are new to reloading a lot of folks might suggest a single stage press to learn the basics. I like a single stage as it keeps me focused and I do not need mass quantities of ammo. I just got a turret press which is a little faster and a bit more convenient.

The first thing to buy is a reloading manual and then buy another manual.
Lee, Speer, Lyman are all good.

Go online and look at websites.
Dillion
RCBS
Hornady
Lee

Look around and see what fits you budget
Really can not give you a realistic cost as it depends on what brand equipment you buy
Some start off with the Kits offered by most companies.

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Still Running Against the Wind

Basic equipment will be those items necessary to deprime the fired case, resize the fired case, prime the case, accurately weigh a powder charge, flare the case mouth for seating a bullet, seat the bullet, and crimp the case mouth.

Typically, this will require a reloading press, die set for each caliber, shell holder for each caliber, powder scale, powder measure. A good dial caliper is useful for checking dimensions accurately. A good reloading manual is a must-have item (includes tutorials on each part of the process as well as laboratory-tested load data for many calibers).

Reloading press: these are available in single-stage and progressive models. Single-stage presses perform each operation separately. Progressive presses perform multiple operations simultaneously for increased speed in reloading. Single-stage presses can be purchased for less than $100. Progressive presses can cost several hundred dollars.

Reloading dies: A set of dies for most handgun calibers can be purchased for less than $50. Some manufacturers include a shell holder; if not, you will need to purchase one separately for a few dollars.

Powder scales: Good scales will measure weights to about 1/10th of a grain in weight (1/70,000th of an ounce). Powder scales are necessary when setting up and adjusting the powder measure (if used). Scales can be purchased for about $75 and up.

Powder measure: A powder measure will meter powder charges via an adjustable cavity and drop the powder charge into the primed cartridge case. The measure is much faster than weighing each charge. Powder measures can be purchased for about $75 and up.

Reloading manual: Published by Speer, RCBS, Lyman, and several others. Good manuals walk you through each step of the process and contain valuable information to help you produce quality ammunition that will be safe to use. A good manual will cost $20 or so.

A sturdy work bench is usually necessary. The bench needs to fully support each tool in use and keep everything stable.

For handgun calibers, carbide dies are a big plus, as they eliminate the need to lubricate each case for resizing, then cleaning the lubricant off the finished round (lubricant on a case when fired will greatly increase the thrust against the breechblock, so reloaded ammunition needs to be clean and dry). I recommend buying new dies; used dies can be a problem if they have not been properly used, maintained, and stored. Lee Precision and Hornady make reasonably priced die sets of very good quality.

Heavy duty single-stage presses are very sturdy machines and, unless allowed to rust, a used press is usually just fine. You can find these on eBay frequently for much less than the cost of a new press.

Used powder measures can also be a good buy, provided the machine is complete and has not been damaged.

Used scales might be a problem. I would purchase a used scale only if I was able to examine it personally and test the machine with items of known weight (factory bullets are a good test, a 150-grain bullet should weight in at 150-grains).

Starting from scratch for 3 calibers of handgun reloading I would expect to invest around $300 to $500 to get started. This is indeed an investment, as the equipment will last a lifetime with reasonable care, and each box of ammunition that you reload will save you at least $5 to $15 when compared to factory loads.

If you have plenty of time and don't mind spending a couple of hours reloading each box of ammo, I think the original Lee Loader is still available. Everything is done manually, on a bench top with a mallet. For less than $50 you can be loading ammunition right away.

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Life of the party until 8:00PM

The above advice is spot on, but here are also numerous little accessories that are difficult to live without.

The ones that come to mind are:
powder funnel
loading block
lube & lube pad (if you aren't using carbide dies)
powder measure stand
calipers (to measure case length)
case trimmer & pilots (purchase later if needed when reloading only straight walled cases)
boxes for loaded ammo

The easiest way to start inexpensively is to purchase a kit similar to the Rock Chucker kit I purchased in 1977. I've added other presses since then, but the single stage still sees a good deal of use with rifle dies, small batches of handgun ammo, and forming cases for 256 Win Mag, 22 Jet, 9.3x62, etc..
If I was to start over again I would buy something like this kit: RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Single Stage Press Master Kit - MidwayUSA for $290. Add in carbide 357, 9mm dies, and shell holders, a pair of inexpensive calipers, powder, primers, bullets, and you will be reloading this evening.

My best advice is to buy good basic tools; you will be using them for many years.

Good luck.

"need" is a relative term. You could get a $34 hand loader in each caliber to give you good ammo. However you won't like the 10 round/hr production rate.
That said, while not a glamorous set-up, a Lee Turret Press isn't a bad way to start. I loaded thousands of rounds over 10 years on mine when I first got started. It's a semi-progressive set-up that produces a round every 3 strokes at a very reasonable 150+ hr. It's not a Dillon 650 but it makes allot of decent ammo for a cheap investment. You can get the whole kit with powder measure, scale and dies for $150 if you shop smart.

Lee Precision, Inc. Reloading Tools and Equipment: Lee Turret Press




Want to upgrade on production speed?
Look for a Lee 1000. I had 3 ( left set up in 3 cals) and all served me well.

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Dave

Sorry for the hijack, but I have been meaning to ask the same question with some qualifiers.
Back in the late Seventies and early eighties I was doing a fair amount of reloading. Mostly for cartridges that could really benefit from it, 38spl, 357mag, 45LC, 41mag, 44spl, 25/06, and 280rem. I tried but never had any luck with 9mm and 45acp.
I mostly used RCBS equipment, both Rockchuckers and the plain single stage. Not production by any means. Life put that all on hold and most of the equipment went to friends and brothers.
Move on 25 years and I want begin again, also teach my 12 year old boy. Again, not production and probably only the 38/357 and 280 to begin.
I am thinking about the Lee turret kit to begin. I see they have a "deluxe" and a "Classic". Any practical difference? Any better ideas?
Thanks

I Load for hand gun only and have mostly Lyman
equipment including a Lyman turret press. I load the
following cal. 9mm,38spl.,357mag.,40cal., and 45ACP
I have about $600 in my reloading outfit. Don

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"Don't worry be happy"

The "classic" is a heavier duty cast press.

Real Guns

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Still Running Against the Wind

One thing about the Lee handloader is that once you get the routine done you can reload load up to 50 rounds an hour. i used to reloaded in the barracks at Ft Bragg in the 80s in the evenings. i would go to Arabic language class for 8 hours a day then go to the sand pits and shoot in the late afternoon then reload those .357 and .41 Mag cases.

I would look online at Midways or Natchez Shooters Supply for a beginners kit. Last Christmas I ordered a Lee starter kit for my son with a set of dies for less then $150 (I taught him to reload years ago).

CD

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De Oppresso Liber

I recently purchased a Lee Deluxe Turret kit from Kempfs Gun shop. It seems to work just fine for me, but if you go that route heres a couple of thoughts.

1. When you get ready to assemble your kit, go to the Lee Website and look at the instruction videos as the printed set-up instrutions with the kit leave much to be desired. Seeing the thing put together and being used is priceless!

2. Add a scale, powder funnel, Lyman manual, as well an extra turret plate for your 2nd die set with your intial order. You will save a 2nd shipping charge as you will find you need them. Your workable two caliber set-up will set you back a little over $300.

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"Give me Liberty..."

I purchased the RCBS Rockchuck Kit last year and it has just about everything that was stated by Lobo. Easy to use.

The only other piece of equipment that you should have is a inertia hammer. This is an invaluable piece of equipment to fix your mistakes. They sell for around 15.00 new.

I purchased a set of Hornady dies...they have a rebate going on...when you send in proof of purchase they will send you 50 bullets of your choice.

Once you start reloading you won't look back..I just recently started to cast my own bullets..that is another addiction you may want to try down the road.

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You'll shoot your eye out kid

I'm thinking there are as many ways to get into handloading as there are handloaders. If you're in a big hurry, it'll cost you more. If you don't know what you're doing, the best start is to beg someone who does load to allow you to spend an evening or two watching. That way you learn the basics, hopefully from someone who is good and careful about it. If you can watch 2 or 3 people, its better. The disadvantage is you may pick up some of their views on things.

Once in the past, and its got to have been in the 1980s, I went to a huge auto parts swap meet in Springfield, OH. Walking with friends among the piles of debris, I spotted a very familiar sight. It was one of those styrofoam cartons, and it had a full Lyman Spar-T loading set inside. Press, priming arms, powder measure, everything. The owner/booth tender said he thought it was some kind of machine to put caps on pop bottles. He was clueless. But he wanted $30 for it. I paid $20. Man was that thing heavy to carry out to the back 40 where we had to park!

Just this past spring I gave it to my oldest son. He thanked me (but didn't give me my $20 back), then proceeded to also take my case tumbler (the one he gave me for Christmas 20 years earlier), my extra scale (to calibrate the measure), and a bunch of other stuff..... There are times when I'm not sure I'm the sharpest knife in the drawer. But it illustrates how you can score great equipment at bargain prices. Just don't give the stuff away.

Try Ebay, Craigslist, all the shooters you know. Every year (I'm getting real old) I hear of someone who passed away and their widow is selling their gun stuff. My old and slick friends kind of specialized in that area. One of their even older friends dies and they go in with an offer for all the stuff. Often buying from a yard sale (it happens) is a good way to score big.

I think the idea is not to blow a bundle when you might be able to get better stuff at a nice discount once you start looking.

My normal advice (on all tools) is to never go cheap. You'll live to regret it. Its why I try to buy from the old line companies like Lyman, RCBS, etc. Those tools will outlast you and everyone else now living. They're not made for 10 or 20 years of heavy reloading, they're made for lifetimes. Never scrimp on dies. Buy the best you can find, primarily carbide if you can find it. You'll save more on cases than the extra cost of premium dies. You'll probably save more each year.

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Dick Burg

My advice would be very different. Id say forget the single stage stuff, while it works its tedious at best. I feel its to easy to make a mistake, say a double charge. Check the youtube videos of reloading to see whats involved. If I had gone single stage first I dont know if I would have stuck with reloading.

I also stayed away from the Lee equipment, lots of folks across the internet bash it form different reasons (I dont want to start a war) I am sure you can read for yourself.

My recommendation would be a Dillon Square Deal B. Its not a giant investment. It does all common pistol calibers with out a great expense. Its easy to use and easy to set up. The powder measure works well with most powders. Get a good scale, a flip tray, a decent caliper and a good manual or two. Also if you out grow the machine or dont like it you can sell it and get most of your money back, they hold their value very well.
Also its not all so complicated that you will be frustrated when you take it out of the box. Dillons support is very good as is their warranty. You can find used machines from time to time.

Its just my opinion, one of many.

Check out Youtube and Lee Precisions videos to get a feel for the process and the types of tools. Buy and read a good manual. Check out Dillions web site to see what Progressives are all about. Shop Cabelas, Midwayusa, Midsouth, and Grafs to see what Kits are available and different prices. The best for you is the one you can understand and be comfortable with. After you have some experience you will know whether you want to go expensive, progressive or stay slow and cheap. I have been reloading for 45 yrs. I have a Lyman single stage press I bought as a teenager, and a 4 position Lee turret press and a Lee handloader (nutchracker type). I use Lyman, Lee, Rcbs and even Herters dies, all are good quality. If I was a competitive shooter I would probably buy a Dillon progressive but I do not need that level of production. The main point I have is if you start simple and learn to enjoy the hobby you will know when to buy the level of equipment which meets your needs. The equipment you first buy will probably still be useful even if you buy the fancy stuff later.

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Revolver luvin' Mountaineer

plus one on the rockchucker setup...i love mine,its inexpensive and i reload thousands of rounds a year

The cost always depends on how much you really want to do. If you want to load a few rounds every now and again, then start off with the Lee Loader or even better, a Lee Handpress. You don't need to buy the biggest and baddest press on the market, alot of people make that mistake. I have had RCBS Rockchuckers in the past, but I can tell you that I love my little Lee press that has the quick change bushings that allow you to just pop in a die without having to unscrew the thing every time. Then you are talking calipers, manuals (always get at least two), dies, scale (I recommend a good electronic scale like the RCBS 750,very simple and easy to use). How clean do you want your cases? Then you're talking a tumbler. I would say budget yourself about $300 for the whole deal, and you should be fine. While that might sound like a lot, you will make that back in the cost of ammo in no time flat. .38 Special is a freat caliber to learn on, simple and very easy to load for.

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Vaya con Dios

I'm not even going to take a guess at what my equipment cost was, in fact it grows constantly. But that wasn't the question.

I have loaded thousands of rounds of ammo with nothing more than a Lee 'Reloader' or 'Hand' press, a set of dies and a priming set up. The Lee dies come with a shell holder and a small plastic dipper that will work just fine for powder charging. I used an Auto Prime II for priming on the press, which use standard shell holders, or if you don't mind spending a little more time they have a Ram Prime that does the same thing except each primer must be inserted individually.

I like to clean my primer pockets and used a primer pocket cleaner too.

There are tons of other stuff you can get which will increase production rate or decrease effort, but you can get these as you go along if you want.

I don't usually recommend Lees' loading manual, but if you are using their equipment it is a good first choice since they explain how to use their stuff.

Also, and I'm surprised this hasn't been mentioned, you will only need two sets of dies and two shell holders. If you get a set of .38 spl dies they will work for .357 also. The same goes for the shell holder, the rims are the same and one will work for both. So all you would need is a .38 spl and a 9mm die set.

My favorite sources were Midway USA and Natchez Shooters Supplies, which I believe links were provided for earlier.

By the way, I'm not Lee Precisions biggest fan and avoid any product with their name on it. But if you want to make decent ammo at the lowest initial investment, they are hard to beat.

Handgun reloading requires something to remove the spent primer from the case, something to squeeze the case back to size, something to put a slight flare on the case mouth, a way to put a fresh primer in the primer pocket without detonating it, a way to measure a precise amount of powder into each case, a way to seat a bullet in the case to the correct length, and (maybe) a way to crimp the finshed round so that it functions correctly in your weapon.

There are a lot of options in how you do these necessary steps, some cheap and slow, others expensive and fast. But in my mind, in order to reload safely, the only things you NEED to start reloading are a good, recent, reloading manual with pressure-tested load data, a good set of calipers (accurate to .001") for determining your cartridge overall length (COL), and an accurate reloading scale for weighing/checking the weight of your powder charge. These three things, if used correctly and religiously, can keep you from hurting yourself or whoever happens to be standing next to you at the range.

Good luck in your new hobby. It's fun, educational, and addictive, and you'll never look at your guns the same way again...

I love my Dillion Square Deal "B" progressive press. But I dont have any other presses to judge it against so I cant really say that its better or worse then any of the other manufacturers.

I want to thank everyone for the wealth of information you have shared. It will certainly get me started out on the right foot with reloading. Thanks again! David

Just for the sake of comparison, I started out from scratch 10 years ago with a Dillon 550B progressive. Once I got the routine down I can load 400 rounds an hour.

Looking at the most recent Dillon "Blue Press" catalog, I'd estimate it would cost about $600 to start out, but Dillon is quality top line equipment with a lifetime no BS warranty. Secondly, with my limited leisure time it's worth the extra investment to be able to turn out 4 or 5 times the quantity of ammo in the same time frame of a single stage.

I brought a friend along to to a gun show looking for reloading equipment last spring and was able to assemble the basic tools needed to get him started for 116 dollars!!! don't know if I can still do that now.