The fine print at the bottom of the charge table says to check the charges thrown with a scale. I'm glad I did. I wanted 3.0 grs of Win 231 for a 38 Special wadcutter load for use in my Model 52. The #2 rotor is shown in the table as throwing 3.0 grs. On my RCBS Chargemaster scale it measures 3.2. I guess I can live with that.

Then I wanted a mild load of AA #5 for use in the 9mm Luger cartridge. The table shows rotor #5 throws 5.6 grs which is a mild load. However the scale shows it actually throws 5.9 grs, which is only 0.1 gr below the max listed in the Lyman handbook!! Now I guess I have to get a #4 rotor which should give me about what I want.

Yup, pre-calculated powder measuring devices should be checked on a properly calibrated scale for accuracy. There are so many factors that can affect what you are really getting that you shouldn't rely on what the owners manual says you will get.

I'm not saying they can't be consistant, this is the other "accuracy".

Almost any powder measuring device that measures by volume will only give an approximate mass thrown of powder.

The theoretical mass thrown will always be the same but the actual mass will vary based on the particle size of the powder which can vary from batch to batch, if the powder has been compacted once in the hopper or if it is very loose in the hopper.

Definitely always a good idea to verify with a scale the amount of powder thrown.

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"I'm just a dog chasing cars."

I have a Little Dandy and over the years have managed to accumulate all available rotors. It is a very useful tool. If you use it enough, one thing you will notice is that a certain volume of powder (same rotor) will not necessarily weigh the same for different lots of the same powder. Most likely the next time you open a new can of the same powder, the rotor that dropped the 5.6gr charge will throw a different weight.

What the above posters have said is true, I have several Little Dandy mesures and the complete set of rotors. There is a member of the forum who makes an sells adjuctable rotors for the Little Dandy, with one of those you can fine tune your measure to throw the exact charge you're after. You can find this guy if you do a search of the reloading section here ln the forum. Several members have purchased his adjustable rotor and the feedback is positive, I have not as yet purchased one but it is on my want list.

Bailey Boat is the gentleman's online screen name. Here's a link to the post...

Little Dandy users please read.....

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Andy

i had one but never got around to getting the rotors, im hooked on the uniflow now

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WILL WORK FOR AMMO!

Mine is the same way, With the #3 drum it supposed to throw a 3 grain charge of Bullseye, but last time I used it the charge measured 3.3 grains on my scale.

Troy

Just wanted to say that Bailey Boat's LDAR (Little Dandy Adjustable Rotor) works as advertised. It is still $49 including shipping, and I got mine in less than a week.

I have used it to dispense Tite Group charges for 9MM and .45ACP. It handles those admirably - and does not drift - not even a little bit.

It is easy to change (while powder stays in the hopper) with the included hex tool. I have charged 100 cases at a time and weighed every 5th charge, with no variation. If you weigh every single drop however, you'll start to see a +/- .10gr. variation (which is exactly what RCBS advertises with their rotors, anyway)

I have found that it will dispense between 2.8 and 14.1 grains of Tite Group, with every imaginable setting in between.

According to the RCBS rotor chart (for Tite Group) that's a range covering rotors 0 through 19 (That's $200 worth of rotors).

Thanks, Bailey Boat!

Thanks for the compliment GM and glad you like it.
The next time you're on the net Google this; "Uncle Nicks Powder Baffle" and you will find a PDF doc that has templates you can use to make the baffles and you'll find that the .01 gr variance will virtually disappear. I use aluminum roof flashing pieces (.49 ea.) from Lowe's but I guess a flattened beer can would suffice also. The Little Dandy takes the 1 & 5/16" size so use that template. The aluminum can be cut with ordinary scissors so nothing special is required.
Thanks again for the good words and holler if there are any questions or issues.

If you buy those baffles (from Midway, for instance) they are $8 + shipping (which is kind of steep), and I have wondered for some time if they would actually make a difference. I would not have known about Uncle Nick's templates, had it not been for you.

Thanks again, Bailey Boat!

The one thing that surprises me about this thread is that people talking about the marked value being off are observing the weight being higher than marked. Historically I have observed and heard from other folks using them that the marked values are higher than those thrown. I can't remember ever having one throw heavy. I guess either way it just becomes obvious that the careful loader will check his rotors against a scale. BTW, I find the Lyman Accumeasure™ rotors and Lee dippers to be slightly "optimistic" about the weight they throw as well.

Froggie

I some times take a round file, sand paper, emery cloth and steel wool to a bushing to get a little more volume out of it .........
then mark it as enlarged with a punch or nail polish.

Very seldom do I get "Dead on" weights but .1-.2 grs is ok for pistol loading while +/- .4 grs is ok for me with a 12 Ga. trap load.

Good luck.

In a volumetric measure the powder actually thrown will be less than the supplied chart It's a safety buffer. You never know what goes in a charge until you weigh it on a scale. I make dippers and use the Lee scoops but I weigh about 10 charges to see what I'm really getting.


Sometimes I'll use a scoop onto the scale that is close to the desired charge, then trickle the remainder in.