I was thinking about getting some of the 158gr RN, I was wishing someone on here has used them and how well they do?

Don't know about the RN 158 grainers but I've used the 158 grain HP with success. I've used them in the .357 over 7.0 grains of W-231 in a
6 1/2" barrel that averaged about 1100 f.p.s. and also over 13.0 grains of 2400 for about 1190 f.p.s.

I use a moderate roll crimp; seat them to an overall length of around 1.57"

I have used Berries for three or four years, not that particular bullet, but in 38 -45 - 40 - 9. Never had any complaints with any of them.

I love them. Free shipping, good customer service.

My favorite for plinking / target is the 125 gr FP's for 38/357. A little HP-38 or Clays and you're good to go.

I wish they still made a 180 or 200 in .44. They said there wasn't enough demand so the smallest they have is 220.

I've been reloading for about 55 years. I have cast my own and have used a lot of different cast and swaged bullets from others in that time. I ran across the Berry People at a gun show when they had first started in business and they gave me a sample of three calibers. I tried all three out. I have been a fan and a user since. Great people, great bullets and great service. IMHO, You will not be disappointed in any of their products. .......... Big Cholla

Looking at their web site I see that their bullets are smooth with no cannula. Do you just crimp into the bullet?

Yes! Taper crimp on light loads for accuracy and roll crimp on heavy loads to keep the bullets immobilized. ........ Big Cholla

My standard IDPA/SSR load is the 158gr RN Berry over 4.8gr of HP38/231 (+P).

It is plenty accurate in either the 686 or 66 for hitting the 8" center of the IDPA target at 35 yd. The bullet remains stable at 100yd, which is a good sign.

Whatever you do, DON"T break the plating when you crimp it!

__________________
Science plus Art

OKFC05 - is that in .38 or .357 cases? Thanks.

.38. Currently I'm using Federal nickel +P just because that's what I bought in a 2000 lot.
Nobody serious uses .357 cases in IDPA/SSR because they are longer than .38 and slow you down.

__________________
Science plus Art

Right, that's why I was asking, plus that seems like a pretty heavy load for a .38 Special target load.

It is +P, but not a max +P load.
In order to make the 125 power factor in IDPA/SSR, a +P load is required with the desirable powders. Standard commercial .38 loads are too low speed. You could use a very slow powder in a handload without going +P, but who wants the smoke and soot from that?

It cracks me up when I read a rant about "target loads" being "powder puff." Certainly not true in the IDPA revolver divisions. Either make 125PF in SSR and 165 PF in ESR, or pack it up and watch.

__________________
Science plus Art

Yeah, I have just started shooting USPSA again and am trying to find/develop some loads for 9mm and .40 that work well in my guns and make minor/major power factor. I will probably shoot some revolver matches also. Thanks.

I use the Berry's 158 gr. RN is 38 Special. Be careful when crimping so as not to cut through the plating - the plating is very thin compared to the metal on a FMJ bullet.

Can you tell me what PF you are making with that load? I have been using the 170gr Billy bullets but may try the Berrys.

I shoot a 66 and 686 and I carefully mark my reloads with "For .357 revolvers Only" because they have to be hot to make PF.

I expect that will be changing shortly from what I hear on the "grapevine". Probably will drop to 1000 so you can actually buy bulk ammo to make PF.

AVG 820fps for PF 129+.
Never failed to make chrono in 15 yr of major matches. The loads are within SAAMI pressure standards, so they can be shot in any .38 rated for +P.

FWIW, I tried Titegroup in four calibers and went back to HP38/231 in .38 and .45ACP.

Am using Titegroup in 9mm (minor) and .40 S&W (Major).

Titegroup and HP38/231 still seem to lead the pack in powder choices in IDPA major matches.

__________________
Science plus Art

The best way I've found to make sure is to pull one I've loaded. I end up using a very light roll or a taper, depending on what press and die I'm using. The Redding taper crimps are really nice - the Dillon accucrimp doesn't put enough taper on it before it starts to roll.

You can but a pretty firm taper crimp on a plated bullet. While these aren't 38 caliber, they are plated and the one on the right has been seated and taper crimped then pulled. You can see that they would not have seated any deeper and the case tension would have kept them from creeping forward. A pretty firm crimp is possible and needed if you want to have decent accuracy & consistency. IMHO