I have a few questions about this round. I have reloaded 38s for years with no problems. I now have two pistols that use the 45acp round. When you reload do you have to measure every casing? What else should I do to have workable rounds?

I would like to thank everyone that has given me info on anything in the past and future.

Charlie

I rarely measure measure any pistol brass. I will do random chamber checks for auto brass and usually visually inspect range brass i pick up out of the dirt. For important reloads, like hunting, i will very closely inspect each round. For regular range fodder, clean and looks about right (after setting up the dies properly) is close enough. A lee factory crimp die is less sensitive to overall length and you should only give 45 a "kiss" from the crimp die anyway.

I met a guy at the range once that was loading 1k 9mm for his son, single stage, he was trimming each case! I've made a bajillion 9mm reloads from scrounged brass and almost never mic a sized case.

Semi auto cases like the .45 acp don't need to be trimmed as they generally get shorter with use, not longer. The .45 acp is an easy caliber to reload with the only difficulty being that sometimes you need to adjust the OAL differently for different bullet makes and styles to fit your particular gun. Consider OAL information in the manuals to be a general guide and not gospel.

If you use range pick ups you may fine an occasional NT case that was primed with a small pistol primer and these need to be sorted out though they can be reloaded with a small pistol primer if you ever get enough of them to make it worthwhile.

It's also a very good idea to use your removed barrel as a gage, and make sure that every loaded round drops freely into the chamber. You will catch the occasional deformed bullet or lead sliver that prevents chambering and sure to cause a jam.

Start your reloading with regular 230gr RN bullets. Lead or FMJ whatever you like.
Much easier to make a round that will feed reliably than trying to mess with OAL for SWC bullets.

I have never measured a empty 45 Auto case. Only measure the OAL when loaded.

A lot depends on what gun(s) you are loading for. Some will feed anything, others like some 1911's are picky with anything other than RN or "ball" ammo.

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Still Running Against the Wind

Since you already load .38's you will find that the .45 is another very easy to load round. The big difference is that the .45 head spaces on the case mouth so you do not want to do a roll crimp. Your dies should apply a taper crimp leaving the edges of the case mouth exposed for head spacing. A loaded .45 should measure from .469-.473" around the case. A simple way to check your reloads is to remove your barrel and use it as a case gauge. If they drop in easily and stop in the same position as a factory round your doing it right. Be sure to select the correct OAL for the bullet you are using as well. I have found a OAL of 1.250" works well with 230fmj or lead bullets.
As far as trimming I have never trimmed a .38, 9MM or .45acp case.
I have trimmed .357, .45 Colt and most rifle rounds.

Just be sure to read your manual and follow recommended loading data.
The .45 is the easiest round to reload. JMHO
Bruce

Loading 45 is no problem. I find the bigger bullet is easier to pick up and insert. Instead of using my barrel to check brass, I trust Wilson case gages. They're available on-line from the usual suspects for about $15.

I have loaded a gazillion .45 ACP rds. and have never once measured or trimmed a case. Tumble them up to get them nice and clean, do a quick visual inspection for cracks and have at it without worry.


WG840

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Freedom above all else.

Ditto john traveler bruce lee for using your barrel as a check.

Wilson gauges are great tools. I have several but they will not tell you if you loaded round will fit in a odd ball barrel. They measure the case not the loaded round.

I have a couple of CZ and Browning 9mm that will not take certain lead RN bullets unless the are seated way shorter than "normal"

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Still Running Against the Wind

When I first started loading .45 ACP I was using a home cast Lyman SWC. It gave me fits until I figured out the proper OAL. As it's been stated above, use your barrel to check and see if the loaded round fits. In my case I had to go to an OAL of 1.18 for reliable function with that bullet.

Ok I appreciate all the replys to the first questions. Now I have another one. My son wento out shooting with his friend. He brought back some brass to reload. He brought back back some winchester and federal brass. Does the brass both have large pistol primers or small pistol primers? How can I tell without to much problem? Is there a tool or something easy to tell? I know so many questions so little time. I am just trying to do this right and not screw up to much.

Thanks again

A visual inspection should be enough. The only cases I know of that will have small primer pockets are the Winchester NT variety. You can lay a .45 ACP next to a .38 Special to see the difference.

One other point, OAL will vary by bullet brand. All 230 gr FMJ bullets do not share the same profile therefore you should re-adjust the seating die for each run. I also try to keep cases from each lot together. In theory that will help you to have all cases with the same number of reloads together so you can judge life expectancy. Thats just me (some call it anal) but I am retired and have nothing else to do.

I hope that helps,

Frank

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sona si latine loqueris .

Well, I love to reload for the 45ACP. I cast for it too. It is one of the simplest loads to reload.

I am not retired so sorting brass ain't gonna happen. Maybe after I have nothing better to do!

At any rate, here are some pictures of 45ACP stuff.

Hope this helps.


Box of free brass that caused me to.......................



buy this!



Then there is this:


And this:


And we cannot forget these:


Or, how about this line up:


Or these bad boys!


Another family member: 240gr 45AR @ 1100fps!


Last but not least:


I guess what I am trying to say is this: The 45ACP has an awesome opportunity for the reloader & handloader. It is easy to assemble loads that "push the envelope" and those that can barely escape it. From mild to wild.

If you are loading for a semi-auto, use your barrel as a case gage. Just make sure you remove it from the handgun first.



Enjoy and be safe!

I used to use a Wilson case gauge to check loaded rounds before matches. If I found a round out of spec, I used a Lee Factory Crimp Die to correct the problem. Now, I just use my Lee Classic Turret press with the FCD and everything works perfectly.

I have been finding both Federal and Speer cases with small pistol primers.

They have not been been marked NT as some of the cases have previously been marked.



Visual inpection is the best and fastest way to tell.

Once you compare them side by side with the "normal" .45 ACP cases with the large primer pocket it becomes a "No brainer"

I have also picked up some recent "Blazer Brass" cases that seem to have an off size primer pocket. The "normal" large primers won't go in and the small primers are a loose fit. I am going to try and swage the primer pockets to see if I can get the large primers to fit.


FOR Smith Crazy

Retirement is everything it is cracked up to be. :-)

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Semper FI

In addition to using the Wilson to check sizing prior to charging, I use the gage to measure the completed round for proper crimp upon setup and once each 50 rounds or so thereafter (along with my other production quality checks like powder weight and OAL). If there's not enough taper, it won't seat in the gage. Am I correct in using it for this?
Obviously, it won't tell you if you have too much crimp or the OAL. And if you have an oddball barrel you are making truly custom ammo which I may need to learn in the "advanced course"!

I am using the Dillion cartridge checking die, A cartridge that is too long will protrude out the bottom of the die and an a cartridge that fits in the die will load and fire in all my .45 ACP handguns

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Semper FI

IMO for the .45 Auto or any semi-auto for that matter I see no reason to buy a case gauge. Your barrel is the perfect case gauge. You will quickly determine if your ammo is made correctly by dropping it into the barrel... (remove the barrel from the pistol)

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Freedom is never free!!
SWCA #3437

Why can't I ever find anyone who wants to give away free brass in the calibers I load????? I have to go and vulture it up at the public range and fight off the old retired doods with their 5 gallon buckets and articulated grasper thingies!

I would buy a .45 Glock too!

Just a word of warning, I'm finding Blazer and Federal cases in my collection that have the small primer pockets, too.

small primer 45 ACP cases are increasing in the marketplace.

Just sort them out until you have a batch to keep track of.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

'bout a year & a half since this thread started.

I always sort by headstamp so I can tell you the SPP brass in my pickups is increasing.

We have:

WinKleen
Federal NT ("dot-Federal-dot" instead of just "Federal")
CCI
Blazer

Well, actually it seems almost everybody has some variety of non toxic (lead free SPP) ammo.

LOL Another thread brought back from the Abyss...

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Freedom is never free!!
SWCA #3437

I don't know that if a 45 has a small primer that means it is lead free. I don't think Blazer is and it's all small primer now. *Edit: Blazer has a line called "Clean Fire" that is lead free and also uses small primers. Makes sense that they would change over to Small primers on all three (Clean Fire, Brass and Aluminum) instead of having two set ups.*

Blazer - Blazer Brass

"blazer brass

handgun ammunition


ECONOMIC RELIABILITY. Blazer® Brass brings shooters the reliability and quality of ammunition built to SAAMI standards, and is backed by stringent ISO certified quality systems. Blazer Brass is loaded in reloadable brass cases for added value. Standard Boxer-type primers and primer pockets mean you can reload Blazer Brass cases just like any other case. Blazer Brass is loaded with a protected-base FMJ bullet. CCI® primers insure reliable ignition, and we load clean-burning propellants. Blazer Brass is available in 9mm Luger, 380 Auto, 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 40 S&W, and 45 Auto calibers with standard-weight bullets.

A number of factory 45 Auto cartridges are fitted with small primer pockets. There is no safety hazard in reloading these cases with standard small pistol primers. However, most published load data is developed using cartridge cases with large primer pockets and standard large pistol primers. A small pistol primer should have no trouble igniting a 45 Auto charge but may produce slightly less pressure."

+1 Many manufacturers make the CASE GAUGES for multiple calibers. Pistol and rifle. IMO these are a MUST have. More so for rifle as head spacing off of the shoulder can be checked insuring your sizing die is correctly set up. For the .45 ACP, WAY easier than removing your pistol barrel for a chamber check. I have a case gauge for every caliber I reload.

I use a Wilson max case gauge too. I use it because I don't want to take out my barrel to check rounds if there is a simpler way. I have never had a round pass the case gauge test then not function in any of my 45's. At least the ones loaded with FMJ bullets. Hollow points are another story.

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AM-Tracks 66-69

My grandson started shooting with me and he wanted to buy some ammo? since I reload it was nuts but he bought blazer brass .45 acp. When we got home i normally put up the brass and am done.he wanted to reload so i grabbed his brass and it had a small primer pocket?? Never have seen this. I set it aside and reloaded 50 of my brass for him. I figure i will load a few of these and see what happens but am considering trashing them rather then getting them mixed in. Any one seen this?

All Blazer Brass 45ACP is SPP now. Here's a link to a thread with a few more of the "culprits":

Which brass manufacturers use small pistol primers in .45 ACP? - Glock Talk

I use lots of range brass which I pick up along with shells from my own two .45s. As reloading is a hobby, I don't mind taking extra steps to insure clean, functional ammo. After decapping, I wash and tumble my brass, after which I use a primer pocket uniformer (from Sinclair) chucked in a portable drill. Priming has never been easier and all primers are seated to proper depth. My MP .45 does not like even a slightly high primer. You would be surprised at the lack of uniformity in primer pockets, even from the same manufacturer. Primer pocket uniforming is also a foolproof way to find .45 brass with small primer pockets rather than crushing a primer during the primer seating stage on a press.

I'm finding increasing numbers of small pockets which I'm setting aside. When I have enough of them and when I have to change over my Dillon RL 550 to do a run of 9mm, I'll load up a batch of small-pocket .45s at the same time.

I am glad I checked in this afternoon, I was going to ask about trimimg 45 acp rounds, my question got answered by reading this thread.

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Carpriver.