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Old 04-19-2011, 02:05 PM
WNC Seabee WNC Seabee is offline
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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Default Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos

When reloading for my 625 JM, is there any reason to keep the brass separated from the ones destined for use in a semi-auto?

I'm loading for fun, plinking and bowling pins, not Bullseye competitions.
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Old 04-19-2011, 03:09 PM
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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It depends - What type of crimp are you using for the 625?
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Old 04-19-2011, 06:08 PM
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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I use a taper crimp on all 45 acp reloads. I have never separated brass and shot the reloads in a Kimber 1911, my M&P, Glock 36 and my 625. I have more than 2 thousand rounds through the 625, thousands of rounds thru the 1911 and not so many through the M&P and Glock. But working on it.
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Old 04-19-2011, 11:57 PM
Dave T Dave T is offline
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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The only distinction I make between reloads for the revolver vs the semi autos is that I use Federal LP primers in the revolver rounds for more positive ignition. Other than that they are identical...same brass, same powder charge, same seating depth.

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Old 04-20-2011, 12:18 AM
robctwo robctwo is offline
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I bought some auto rim to add to the confusion. Am enjoying my 625 JM.
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Old 04-20-2011, 09:06 AM
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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Me too. Federal for the revolver and the Glock 36, with Winchester for everything else. I have a couple thousand Winchester Large Pistol, then everything both large and small will be using Federal.

I put an after market trigger and striker spring in the Glock 36. Had to use Federal primers ever since to insure reliability. Great trigger though.
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:57 AM
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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I have 1917 S&W and a 1911A1 Colt and I keep loaded shells in a coffee can. Both guns shoot the same thing. Larry
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Old 04-20-2011, 02:01 PM
Skip Sackett Skip Sackett is offline
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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If you have a newer Smith, the ones with the frame mounted firing pin, you may NEED Federal primers OR and extended firing pin or a little longer strain screw.

My M625JM would not fire anything but Federal primers when I got it. I use Wolf now, made the above mentioned adjustments and now it fires them all fine. So does my PT1911 and Glock 21. I have some loads that are not suitable for either of the automatics and those are distinguished by the bullets that are loaded in the cases. For the M625JM, I have a home cast 240gr LSWC load that clocks 1100fps out of the 4" barrel. They will not chamber in the other firearms though.

FWIW
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:32 AM
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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Smith Crazy, that was my experience also. I was going to keep my 625 JM stock, except for grips, so I could fire anything. I was going to shoot USPSA revolver once and a while for something different. Was I suprised.

So I took it so a local guru and he did his magic and have to shoot Federal primers like before. Now I have a handgun I can brag about and shoot USPSA revolver once and a while.
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:42 AM
WNC Seabee WNC Seabee is offline
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smith crazy View Post
If you have a newer Smith, the ones with the frame mounted firing pin, you may NEED Federal primers OR and extended firing pin or a little longer strain screw.

My M625JM would not fire anything but Federal primers when I got it. I use Wolf now, made the above mentioned adjustments and now it fires them all fine. So does my PT1911 and Glock 21. I have some loads that are not suitable for either of the automatics and those are distinguished by the bullets that are loaded in the cases. For the M625JM, I have a home cast 240gr LSWC load that clocks 1100fps out of the 4" barrel. They will not chamber in the other firearms though.

FWIW

I have a new-in-wrapper extended firing pin in my parts bin along with a set of Wilson Combat springs. Is the firing pin replacement a DIY job, or should I take it to a 'smith? I'm handy with a punch, but not a gunsmith.

Thanks for all the feedback!
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:42 AM
Big Cholla Big Cholla is offline
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WNC Seabee View Post
When reloading for my 625 JM, is there any reason to keep the brass separated from the ones destined for use in a semi-auto?

I'm loading for fun, plinking and bowling pins, not Bullseye competitions.
In general semi-auto loaders put a slight indent on the outer rim of the brass each time it is ejected. If you are shooting the autoloaders a lot and reloading a lot you will eventually see the base of those cartridges becoming slightly deformed. It takes many re-loadings and many trips thru the pistol for this to happen, but it does. That deformation just might cause loading/extraction problems down the road in the 625. YMMV...... Big Cholla
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:24 AM
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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I sort by headstamp but not for revolver/semiauto.

R-P brass is thinner than most and doesn't like to grip .451 plated/jacketed bullets. I use those for .452 cast boolits.

Of course, I only use plated or jacketed in the revolver because it shoots them better & cleaning lead out of the revolver is a PITA.
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:17 PM
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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I recently started loading for the .380ACP. A friend gave me a whole bunch of de-primed cases of different brands. On a whim I decided to weigh a few to see what diff there was between brands. I was shocked to find as much as 20% difference in weight from one brand to another. When you are loading such a small case with powder charges in the 2 to 3g area, such a case difference could prove to be a problem as charges approach max! I keep all these little buggers separated by brand now! !Tenga cuidado!
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Old 04-23-2011, 12:13 AM
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shuz View Post
I recently started loading for the .380ACP. A friend gave me a whole bunch of de-primed cases of different brands. On a whim I decided to weigh a few to see what diff there was between brands. I was shocked to find as much as 20% difference in weight from one brand to another. When you are loading such a small case with powder charges in the 2 to 3g area, such a case difference could prove to be a problem as charges approach max! I keep all these little buggers separated by brand now! !Tenga cuidado!
You will find that on any caliber. It's not a bad thing to do but the only dimension that would make a difference is the interior volume and case length. I load 32 auto, 380's and every other caliber and do not sort headstamps. You will never tell the difference.
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Old 04-23-2011, 06:15 AM
Revolver-time Revolver-time is offline
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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I have several 1911s, a Model 25, a 1917 and a few Ruger 45 ACP/Colt. I do not sort for auto or revolver but I do sort by headstamp and large or small primer. More and more SP .45s seem to be finding their way into my reloading stock.
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Old 04-29-2011, 11:47 AM
gwalchmai gwalchmai is offline
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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20% variation in case weight? That's incredible!
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Old 04-29-2011, 04:04 PM
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Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos Any reason to separate brass? 625 vs. various semi-autos  
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You won't have problems not separating them, unless you do...

I have had a couple of semiauto .45 ACP pistols that chewed on the case rims pretty enthusiastically. The more chewed-upon cases sometimes had the burr or deformity catch on the recoil shield of the revolver when cocking it for the next shot. Sometimes it was enough resistance that I would open the cylinder and reload at that point.

I mostly shoot Auto Rim in my revolvers now, or ACP factory loads, and haven't encountered the problem for years.
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1911, bullseye, colt, crimp, glock, gunsmith, headstamp, kimber, model 25, model 625, primer, ruger, winchester

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