Since I have been looking at mouse guns lately, I also looked locally and found this 14.7 ounce instead.



It's a 1953 airweight (pre-M12) that has an aluminum cylinder and frame. Supposedly, the cylinder won't take full power .38 Special military ball, but that wouldn't keep me from handloading some in the target velocity range that are still far superior to a .25 acp and probably superior to .380 mouse guns.

I didn't get the correct grips with it, so the picture has the M19-3 grips. Most probably don't know, but the original airweights had thinner frames than the other K frames, I guess to save a little weight. This is the same gun known as the "aircrewman" in it's USAF military form.

I have not shot or handle one, but I understand collectors like them. I think they are an interesting piece of history. Perhaps you can sell it for a profit and use the proceeds to purchase a model 37 or another new "air weight" with a titainium cylinder?

I really don't think you should shoot the revolver because of the aluminum cylinder, but like you said, as little as possible with mid range wad cutters.

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JIM
NRA Pistol Instr

As I looked this one over at purchase time, I checked the top strap for flame cut and the cylinder face for scorch from firing and didn't see any. This gun is almost unfired, if it was even fired from the factory. It does have some scuff marks on the frame, so I don't think it's more than a 95% gun (with correct grips).

Sounds like a nice one. Keep it and get another when you can. :-)

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JIM
NRA Pistol Instr

You seem to understand the warnings against shooting the gun with an aluminum cylinder, and want to ignore them anyway. Why not sell it and buy a nice J-frame no lock? Surely there are other "mouse guns" out there you could plink with instead of a pre-12 aluminum cylinder gun...

Hard to argue the logic expressed on Not shooting that gun.
Sure, you can say that you've shot an Aircrewman, But, if it breaks, all
you'll have left is junk and memories. And no mousegun. JMHO, TACC1.

I suppose you gentlemen haven't read Supica on the subject. You might want to do that before you jump too hard.

Of course, you could always make an offer.

Do you have something to add to that? The value isn't the issue here. (I'll give you $100 for it though. ) The issue is shooting it. Essentially you don't care about cracking and stretching the gun because it isn't worth much to you?

That seems contradictory to the injunction to the refrain from shooting it. It also seems to be contrary to the Air Force practice of shooting the alloy cylinder guns, which is the bulk of the aircrewmen M-13s that are still around.

However, since the value, according to Supica, is at least $600 (with correct grips) and the alloy cylinder makes it worth twice as much, I could probably sell it and find a nice Chief's Special and have pocket change left over.

I think you're a big boy now Paul and can do what you please with your property.

(although $1200 would buy a few nice toys! LOL)

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Freedom is never free!!
SWCA #3437

That's what I was thinking, but the offers aren't rolling in to enable me to buy all of those toys. The last Chief's Special I had cost $65, but that was when we used real money. Of course, I only paid $20 or so for this one, in real money. Real money could be $20 gold pieces, or 20 silver dollars.

I have a really nice Chief's Special but I'm not willing to part with it. I just love them little revolvers!

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Freedom is never free!!
SWCA #3437

I should have added I was only making $3.40/hour at the time I bought that nickel plated Chief's Special.

What an interesting revolver! I'm wondering if, for the sake of safety and preservation, it would be feasible and cost-effective for Smith and Wesson to fit a steel cylinder to the gun?

This S&W is only 15 oz

The Smith & Wesson Model 642 Centennial Airweight Revolver

Maybe someone would trade you the above gun for yours if you would be interested

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Semper FI

I think any K frame cylinder would fit, so a steel cylinder would be very much a possibility.

I don't think too highly of anything that doesn't have a hammer, but I might consider a trade if someone wanted to go that route.

I've about decided a M637 would suit my needs better than this pre-M12. It's only 1 ounce heavier and is rated for +P.

Fits in a Justin Roper just fine!

Skip, bad recommendation. I have some Ropers that hurt my feet, so I rarely wear them. Maybe they would fit better and/or quit hurting with a 637 in there too?

Ropers have to be some of the most routinely comfortable fitting boots made. What the heck is wrong with yours???

I bet a clip draw would work real good with them. I feel like I'm always so late to figure things like that out. Oh well.

Bob I may be so used to my Sperry Topsider loafers everything else puts me in a bind. I didn't get the Chinese Ropers either, mine are all leather and made in Mexico! Maybe I just need to get another pair of kangaroos?

OK, it's listed in the classified section, if you're interested.