It has been raining here for the past 3 days, so no shooting.

Thought I would cast a few bullets, with an emphasis on few. The Lyman 4 cavity I have is sure getting heavy way too fast, but I did manage to get these done.



I have a little more tin in these than I normally use and they are dropping well filled out. I culled 1 bullet from this batch that includes the first drop. The hot plate pre-heat does wonders for getting the mold up to temperature!

My cell phone camera doesn't really do these justice, but some of the problem may be me shaking too much. Getting old isn't for the faint of heart.

Very good sir!

I don't cast that bullet but I have one that is really close to it, an H&G #290BB, with a shorter nose. More like the Lyman that was designed for the "N" frame revolvers. Maybe an H&G #41? Can't remember right now.

Since I'm contemplating a new M637, I'm wondering if anyone has loaded with 358429s seated in the crimping groove? IOW, is it too long for its cylinder when seated normally?

Your #358429 is my alltime go-to bullet for .357. I usually push it with 13-14 grs. of #2400.

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S&W Accumulator

My M637 cylinder measures 1.595". With a case in it, an OAL has to be less than 1.648". The case brand was Fiocchi.

Hope this helps.

I get 1.535" OAL on a loaded round, so it would fit. I just put some together with 3.0 gr of Bullseye. That should give me a whopping 600 fps or less out of a 2" barrel. I'll see how they shoot out of a 2" M19, so look out mice!

What do they weigh? How much pure lead? You said you used more tin than usual but how hard would you say they are?

My all time favorite .358" bullet. I've cast tens of thousands of these with straight wheelweigth.

5.0 Grains of Unique for a vigorous .38 Special load (may be a little stout for a non +P 637). 7.0 Grains of Unique for a good .357 Magnum load. Crimp over the front shoulder for an N-Frame.

As good as it gets for me...

I haven't checked the hardness, but they shouldn't be more than 13 BHN or so.

They weigh 164 gr, which is 1-4 grain lighter than usual. Some of that comes from not using exactly the same alloy every time, since I always mix rough ratios of clip on to stick on WWs.

4gr lighter would tell you they were a bit harder than straight wheel weights. Most mould are either #2 regulated or to wheel weights. Another test you could do is see how big they are as cast. Harder is always bigger and lighter, softer is smaller and heavier.

To tell the difference in size though, you might need to use a machinist's micrometer with .0001" graduations.

3gr of Bullseye in a 2" gun still isn't going to be real pleasant to shoot a bunch of. I know the M637 I have is rated for +P but that doesn't mean I would like shooting them a bunch out of it!

The M637 I'm looking at is a new +P rated model, so 5.0-5.5 gr should be OK, if I can hang on to it. I'll just have to see at what levels it's shootable for me. The M19 at 28-29 ounces wasn't too comfortable, but it has the skinny round butt laminated S&W grips on it. It's about like trying to use a broomstick!

SS says it all for me as well. Been casting these since the late 1960's. Can't even imagine the tens of thousands shot out in the field. GREAT old design.

I just checked the hardness with a Lee tester and got .064" (12.5 BHN) on an old bullet weighing 168 gr. The new bullet, weighing 164 gr measured .070" (10.4 BHN). I use 30 seconds of pressure when I do a hardness check and I use the nose, so it isn't work hardened by the sprue cutter or filing.

The size is .3574" using an NSK .0001" micrometer. My Mitutoyo set measured .358", but it's only .001" accuracy.

BTW, I reweighed the two bullets and got 165.18 gr vs 167.32 gr, so they are only a little over 2 gr different. Lyman says the 358429 is 168 gr in Linotype.

Hmmm, I just checked the letter "Y" (that should be monotype) and got .082", which off the scale on the soft side. Maybe it's just too small to read right?

Interesting, I tried to bend that "Y" and it broke, just like monotype should do. I guess I need to make the monotype I have into a larger pieces to test it properly.

The 358429 is my very favorite bullet. Perhaps unreasonably so, but I don't care. I shoot it with everything.

14.5 grains of 2400? Got them.
12.5 grains of 2400 in a .38 case makes for an excellent shooting round.
3.5 grains of Bullseye in a .38 case makes a VERY consistent 800 fps and shoots like a laser.
The LOAD with a 358429 is probably my go-to round. I've probably shot thousands in the past 2 years.

Nice looking bullets Go-rilla!

Guys on the castboolits forum post pics of "prettier" bullets, and I could add some tin and probably get the same, but I can't see why. They shoot the same.

Yep, you could also use straight linotype, like some of them do to make pretty bullets.

However, you're entirely right, pretty is as pretty does.

Pretty bullets shoot no better than frosted ones, been there, done that, got the "T-shirt".

When I said nice, I was referring to the sharp corners on the driving bands and the overall appearance.

Frosted bullets remind me of a crankshaft grinder, Victor, in Fort Worth. When I asked about him not polishing the journals, he just said with a slight German accent, "the fuzz helps it hold more oil". I didn't buy it then and don't think I buy it now.

I love the #358429 bullet, I cast them with straight wheel weights and then water drop them. Not sure what the hardness is but with Lee Alox I can shoot 40 or so and still no leading with 12.5 grains of 2400 in a .38 Special +P case in my .38-44 Outdoorsman. I still want to see what it will do to a whitetail but would also like to see it versus a coyote.

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Vaya con Dios

I have a 6-cavity Lee group-buy clone of this bullet that was done by the Cast Boolits forum members a few years ago. I've shot many pounds of wheelweights downrange in this configuration - all at paper targets, though. A classic design, without a doubt!

#358429 was the first bullet I ever cast.
I had just bought a S&W HD 5" Nickel x-PD marked revolver and went right out and got the mould, a single cavity though.

No money for a sizer so I shot them as cast, pan lubed.
2400 powder was the choice of course.
This was in the late 60's.
The HD cost me $45. Big decision wether to take that or a pre-war M&P on the shelf at a cheaper $40.
Alot of money when you're pulling in less than $2/hour!
Good times though, I shot alot of stuff with that revolver and load. Qualified with it later on too with the wimpy 158grRN stuff.

Wheel weights water dropped can get to 30BHN! Pretty impressive but not needed for 99.9% of all handgun shooting. The extra hardness will not hurt you as long as the bullets fit the bore/throats of your firearm though and since you didn't add something to the alloy to get that hardness, nothing lost either. Water and a 5 gallon bucket is pretty cheap hardening stuff!


Good for you!