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Old 07-08-2012, 07:29 AM
Moonman Moonman is offline
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Default STAINLESS STEEL MEDIA TUMBLING INFO GUIDE

Many more people are discovering the world of ROTARY tumbling brass with STAINLESS STEEL MEDIA to clean it and make it like NEW, INCLUDING THE PRIMER POCKETS.

The Stainless Media never needs replaced, (unless you loose it down the drain), like your eventually contaminated walnut shells or corn cob media in your vibrator type tumbler, PLUS THERE IS NO DUST.

The centerpiece of the deal is a ROTARY TUMBLER originally made for ROCK POLISHING.

The tumbler is a THUMBLER'S TUMBLER 15 POUND, MODEL "B" HI-SPEED MOTOR (3000 RPM), 40RPM DRUM SPEED, AN OLDER VERSION HAS A 30 OR SO DRUM RPM SPEED. the older and slower set-up works OK, it just takes longer to clean the brass.

The TUMBLING MEDIA ARE STAINLESS STEEL WIRE PINS, they are aprox. .042 in diameter, .252/.255 in length, and are of an ALLOY that is MAGNETIC and yet does not RUST. Magnetic Pins will help with loose or errant pin pick up. I store my pins in the drum WET. I also keep a magnet attached to the base plate so it's right there if I need it.

Complete set-ups are available from STM or Buffalo Arms. STM has a DELUXE kit, Thumbler's Tumbler, S.S. Pins, Lemi-Shine, and a Seperator on sale for $255. The standard set-up is about $225, or $179 for the Thumbler's Tumbler Hi-Speed alone, plus shipping.

The people who wish to Clean A Lot Of Brass, STM has a 40 Pound total drum load rotary tumbler on sale for $799.

***BEFORE CLEANING YOUR BRASS, TUMBLE THE PINS ALONE TO LET THEM DE-BURR THEMSELVES.***

I've made some additions to my set-up that make things a little nicer to use.

I run my unit with a "DoIt" brand Countdown Digital Timer, just push a button for 1 hour-2 hour-4 hour-8 hour run time and then forget it as it will turn off. Available on-line SKU # 520462 (Google it)

I understand some new units have the inside of the drum painted, older units do not, pull the rubber liner, clean well, prime, and paint it with a Rust-Oleum red paint to prevent the drum from rusting.

I replaced the WING NUTS with 1/4"-20 "FEMALE" ANTI-VIBRATION KNOBS these are available on-line from McFeeley's and the SKU # JKA 2500.

McFeeley's usually has CHEAP SHIPPING. The knobs are 1 3/8" O.D. x 9/16' width, this is important for the drums rotation.

The 15 pound TOTAL DRUM LOAD is 1 Gallon WARM WATER (8 pounds) the STAINLESS PINS which are 5 pounds, the Dawn soap, Lemi-Shine, and TWO (2) POUNDS OF YOUR BRASS.

THE SOAP AMOUNT CAN VARY WITH THE HARDNESS OF YOUR WATER.

A 15 pound drum loads contents:
1 Gallon warm water (8 pounds)
5 Pounds of the STAINLESS STEEL MEDIA PINS
1-2 Tablespoons "DAWN" Dish Washing Liquid
1 Teaspoon or a 9MM Case full of Lemi-Shine Rinse Agent
2 Pounds of your brass.

2 Pounds of brass weight would be ONE of the following:
.223 cal 160 cases
.308 cal 80 cases
45ACP 160 cases
40S&W 212 cases
9MM 228 cases
38 Spec. 198 cases

*** DO NOT OVERLOAD YOUR DRUM ***

I made an additional DRAINING/FLUSHING plate from Plexiglas (LEXAN). Just use the drums removable plate for a template. I cut a 4" hole in the lower portion and Silicon Sealer Glued, after removing the handle, an "ONEIDA" Fine Mesh (smaller than the pin size) strainer from Wal-Mart, not a cheap one $8. The ONEIDA MODEL NUMBER IS 7822. On the upper part 180 degrees from the 4" hole I put a 1" hole to fill with water or for a hose to fit into the drum to flush.

MOST OF THE "BLACK" WATER YOU FLUSH OUT IS CARBON.

The pins DO NOT WORK HARDEN THE BRASS.

For people in a hurry to reload, you can use an ALCOHOL BATH to DISPLACE THE WATER ON THE BRASS. Use 90-99 % Alcohol, NOT THE MORE COMMON DRUG STORE 70% variety.

Shake pins out of the brass and excess water off, drop in the alcohol bath, shake off again and ready to reload in a couple minutes.

BE CAREFUL, and return the alcohol to it's original container.

THIS IS LIKE THE CADILLAC OF BRASS CLEANING COMPARED TO REGULAR VIBRATORY BRASS CLEANING.
It's easy, cleaner, QUIETER THAN A VIBRATOR, and works BEAUTIFULLY to clean inside, outside and especially the primer pockets.

TAKE YOUR CHOICE, IT'S YOUR DECISION, A ROTARY AND STAINLESS MEDIA OR THE OLD STYLE DIRTY, NOISY, DUSTY VIBRATOR CLEANERS THAT YOU MUST REPLACE THE MEDIA IN. A COST THAT ADDS UP FOR YEARS, YOU DO THE MATH.

Good Loading and Shooting Guys and Gals.
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Last edited by Moonman; 07-18-2012 at 06:09 AM. Reason: ADDED INFO
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Old 07-08-2012, 08:48 AM
mikethebike67 mikethebike67 is offline
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Thanks for the info. I have the small dillon vibrating tumbler. It takes a looong time for the cases to get as clean as I like. I have been thinking about going with a wet tumbler set up. Mike
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Old 07-08-2012, 10:24 AM
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I have found tarnished cases to be as accurate as shiny cases. Shiny cases that are stored for several weeks before reloading look just like tarnished cases.

I tumble cases to remove dirt and carbon fouling to improve die life.
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Old 07-08-2012, 12:57 PM
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I have found tarnished cases to be as accurate as shiny cases. Shiny cases that are stored for several weeks before reloading look just like tarnished cases.

I tumble cases to remove dirt and carbon fouling to improve die life.
1+

I've used the same Thumbler's Tumbler Model B with impregnated walnut media since 1977 and only to remove carbon and dirt prior to resizing my cases.
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Old 07-08-2012, 01:19 PM
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At $32 for 40 lbs of corn media(which will last a looooong time)from Drill Spot, it is probably less money that Lem Shine, alcohol and wasted rinse water. A lot less work and hassle.JMO
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Old 07-08-2012, 01:31 PM
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Old Dogs have many reasons why they never change, many a business ended up failing for the same reason, that we've always done it this way.

The world and the its new leaders move on and forward without them, they will be remembered but by history, if anyone still cares about history in the future.

Stainless Steel Tumbling ROCKS!!!!!!
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Old 07-08-2012, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Moonman View Post
Old Dogs have many reasons why they never change, many a business ended up failing for the same reason, that we've always done it this way.

The world and the its new leaders move on and forward without them, they will be remembered but by history, if anyone still cares about history in the future.

Stainless Steel Tumbling ROCKS!!!!!!
I have no doubt the SS pins work well.

I have been using the non tumbling method before the "pins" came around. There is also the brass sorter pans for range brass.

This is my wash, rinse and Solar dry set up I use Vinegar, Salt and soap over the Lem Shine as it is way cheaper, Also the other can is Bar Keepers Friend which works real well. Here in Fl on the driveway the brass gets too hot to handle, dries in a few minutes. Save the solution and it can be used many times.

Cost for this set up a few dollars.

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Old 07-08-2012, 09:04 PM
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Rule 3
how do you do it? I have never hear of that way. Looks like an easy solution. Does it get the brass clean all over or just on the outside?
Thanks for the run down on it.
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:26 AM
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Rule 3
how do you do it? I have never hear of that way. Looks like an easy solution. Does it get the brass clean all over or just on the outside?
Thanks for the run down on it.
Mix 2 cups of white vinegar, 2 tablespoon salt and a squirt of dish soap with enough water to make 1 gal. (one of the empty jugs)

Dump your brass and the solution in a 5 gal bucket. Let it sit for 15 minutes or so. Use a colander and a funnel and drain the solution back into a empty jug.(you can re use the solution several times) Rinse the brass in the other 5 gal bucket with a garden hose several times. Dump the brass in the homemade frame of 2 x 4's with hardware cloth stapled/nailed on the bottom. Let it dry in the Sun.

You can use Lem Shine instead of the Vinegar (both are mild acids) or the Bar Keepers Friend cleaner (another acid, a few tablespoons)

The brass will be very clean but not super shiny.

I mainly use it for dirty range brass that has sand and dirt in it.

If you put it in a regular tumbler after it only takes 30 minutes or so to make it really shine if you want.
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Old 07-09-2012, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonman View Post
Old Dogs have many reasons why they never change, many a business ended up failing for the same reason, that we've always done it this way.

The world and the its new leaders move on and forward without them, they will be remembered but by history, if anyone still cares about history in the future.

Stainless Steel Tumbling ROCKS!!!!!!
Sometimes the Luddites among us see no reason to change because we are happy with the results of our current methods vs. the time and money necessary to change.

As a business man, I totally agree with the comment about a business failing because they do not keep up with the times. However, spending money to change when change is not needed is every bit as foolish.

Personally, I tumble my brass to remove grit and carbon to protect my dies and rifle chambers. I have no need to clean the inside of the cases. The primer pockets get cleaned as needed using the same tool that prepped them before the first loading. It take less than 10 minutes per hundred.

No doubt that the stainless steel pins will clean the primer pockets and inside of the case much better than the walnut media. We each have to make our choices and decide what is the best method to meet our current needs.

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Old 07-09-2012, 07:41 AM
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Fellows PLEASE,

THIS THREAD IS ABOUT STAINLESS STEEL TUMBLING!

Not about CLEANING BRASS METHODS GENERALLY.

Please start YOUR own thread if you want to discuss YOUR brass cleaning methods
or best tricks if it does not pertain to the S.S. Media Rotary Tumbling method.

There ARE PEOPLE seeking this information Gentlemen.

I would welcome some photos being posted here that people have of the before and after brass condition.
I know people have posted them on other forums.

Sorry but I just don't do photos.

Thank You.
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:06 AM
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Good informative post Moonman......but we old curmudgeons are a hard sell. I already have a Thumler's Tumbler, have had it about 30 years, and still love it, even with my antiquated dry media. It's a lot simpler and less labor-intensive than going the "wet" route, and if the brass is especially grungy or nasty, I just leave it in there longer. When it's done I pour the barrel into a Dillon Media Separator, give it a few spins, and commence the reloading cycle. I buy "Pet Bedding" locally for $20 per fifty pounds, and a bag will last me several years........and I tumble a LOT of brass. A bottle of whoever's brass polish also lasts a couple of years. A few cups of water in the mix cleans even better than dry media.

I'm not convinced dirty primer pockets have any effect on load consistency or accuracy.
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Old 07-09-2012, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
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Fellows PLEASE,

THIS THREAD IS ABOUT STAINLESS STEEL TUMBLING!


Sorry but I just don't do photos.

Thank You.
MOONMAN

If you are cleaning the primer pockets this means you are de priming dirty cases before cleaning?? Does this damage your dies??

How are you drying your brass. The alcohol method? Or do you put them in the kitchen oven??

How can you have such advanced technology and not have pictures??
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:10 AM
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Hey Moonman, keep spreading the news! I have no experiance with moist media, but the wet pins get the primer pockets and the inside of cases cleaner than Iosso and that was the best I've found since 1981 when I started cleaning brass. Primer pocket fouling only seems to make a differance in 2 areas; 1) very long range (800 plus yards) and 2) any corrisive powder or primer usage. So Black Powder and subs need all the clean they can get! The Alcohol bath is a great idea that I think I'll try. The "shiney"ness of brass is considered to be a no-no in tactical(sniper) shooting, but the guys that beating every one else, their rounds shine like mirrors. The top 3 shooters in my area (not me at all); 2 use rottery tumblers and steel pins and the other uses Iosso and buffs them after with Nevr-dull. The attitude for pistol brass seems to be- "no mud is clean enough", like one guy said, "Power fouling is carbon and carbon is a great dry lube". Ivan
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:49 AM
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Rule3,

I do the decapping with a universal decapping die, on a single stage press and save the brass for later.

When I take a notion, I tumble the brass, and when I feel like it I PRIME THE CASES
with a bench mounted RCBS deal while watching TV or listening to the radio or both.

The primed cases are marked and put into the original boxes or into commercial
MTM or Dillon plastic storage containers to await whenever I choose to load some up.

I have New Brass, Primed Brass, Awaiting Processing Brass, Re-Loaded Rounds,
and Factory Ammo for New Firearms break-in and Defensive Carry use.

Life is Good.

As to Brass Drying,

I Shake the brass off, Towel Dry and then use a Hairdryer along with just plain old time passing.

The Alcohol Bath was mentioned because some folks are in a real hurry to reload, I don't have that problem.
People in a hurry and using the Alcohol Bath Drying Method need to be EXTREMELY CAREFUL of the fire hazard.

As to photos, I never have been big on photos, very few even exist of me,
not that there's a reason other than I'm certainly not George Clooney photogenic.

Retirement and Good Health gives one many options, I worked decades in a Fortune 500 corporate
environment and now no longer must HURRY, I don't have to deal with other peoples created
EMERGENCIES AND CRISIS. Stop and Smell the Roses people.

Have a Great Day with your Choices in Life.
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:26 PM
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I have New Brass, Primed Brass, Awaiting Processing Brass, Re-Loaded Rounds,
and Factory Ammo for New Firearms break-in and Defensive Carry use.

The Forest Gump of Brass and Ammo!
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:37 PM
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I'm super impressed with the SS pins and new rotory tumbler. I shoot lots of blackpowder cartridge in 45-70. 38-55, 44 spl., 44 russian, 12ga. brass. Don't think I'll ever use the dry nut media again, but ya never say never.

In the pic are 12 ga. brass shells that have been rinsed off with vinegar and water solution to remove dirt,carbon as I had beeen doing with a vibrator/nut system for the past 15 years. Never had any trouble with that method, but like the new to wet system much better.
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:05 PM
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Retirement and Good Health gives one many options
Ah, there's the rub. You have time to fill with extra steps that I most assuredly do NOT. I'm semi-retired, meaning I just have to show up for work and keep an eye on things, some nights I even bring in brass to reprime. But adding extra steps to a process I already think is entirely adequate just doesn't make any sense, when my results are already perfectly satisfactory. Enjoy your extra steps, since you have that kind of time. Personally, I'd rather be shooting, or coaching, or..........sleeping.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:28 AM
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Zuke,

Do you have any S.S. tumbled brass that you could post? Maybe some really dirty military stuff from a range that's been cleaned up by tumbling.

Thanks,
MOONMAN
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:24 PM
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Shiny, gleeming, light reflective brass looks the same no matter how it got shiny and brite. I've shot great with dirty brass, and I've shot lousy with shiny, gleeming brass. It's the trigger finger, not the brass case!!!
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Old 07-31-2012, 10:18 PM
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How much does the stainless pins wear on the brass?

I mean these tumblers are meant to polish rocks by abrading them till smooth, and to be honest I think brass is just as likely to wear, its softer them most rock...

But I'm happy with regular vibratory cleaners
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:48 AM
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shovelwrench,

The tumbler is filled with water, the pins and brass roll across each other, lubricated by the soap and Lemi-Shine.

I tumble pistol brass 1-2 hours, I don't shoot rifles.

People on the snipers forum, where this idea came from, speak of tumbling RIFLE BRASS up to 4 hours.

Never did any rocks, but I think they tumble A LONG TIME.

To each his own, oh, by the way,

HAVE YOUR BLOOD LEAD LEVEL CHECKED IF YOU VIBRATE CLEAN INDOORS, AND ESPECIALLY IF YOU SHOOT INDOORS TOO.
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  #23  
Old 09-10-2012, 11:26 PM
tul9033 tul9033 is offline
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Any suggestions on a magnet to grab the pins with?
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:46 AM
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I despise cleaning primer pockets ! Also I know that a clean smooth surface for flame propagation gives more consistent ignition.That would include inside the case as well as the pocket itself.
No other method of cleaning or not cleaning prepares those surfaces for consistent ignition as well as S.S. media.
As for "extra" steps" there are no "extra" steps, it is about a push as for the time spent doing wet or dry cleaning.I do not have to pick corn or walnut media out of a still dirty primer pockets.I would rather be playing in wet media with no dust and air borne bad things and never touch a primer pocket.In reality it is less work than dry media with zero time spent on primer pockets..
I am not sure I would want to be trying to pick up the S.S. media with a magnet,it might prove to be a problem getting the media off of the magnet.

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Old 09-11-2012, 08:08 AM
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longranger,

Put the MAGNET INSIDE A BAGGIE, that way it's not in actual contact with the pins.

Pick them up, place where you want them, reach inside the baggie and pull the magnet away, the pins drop, job handled.
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:07 AM
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Moonman, or anyone else that can answer this, I have a Delorme rock tumbler that I've used for years with regular tumbling media, can it be used with the ss media since it has a rubber drum?

For the sake of this discussion, I used to do load developement for a little extra money and found that the carbon build up inside the cases makes a lot of difference if you are looking for the ultimate in accuracy. Crushed walnut or corn medias are fine for cleaning the outside of the case, but do not really do anything for the inside, where it matters the most. Chemicals baths clean the insides a little but do not get all the carbon out of the inside. For those that are very particular about weighing each case, the carbon does add to the weight, but not the same as the metal in the alloy, plus the more carbon you have built up inside the case, the smaller the cavity gets. This can have an unbelievable affect on an otherwise perfect load.
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:25 PM
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Jellybean,
I don't know, is it a ROTARY TUMBLER,
What's its Capacity?
A HIGH SPEED THUMBLERS drum rotation is 40RPM vs 30RPM for standard speed, it just takes longer to clean.
Stainless Steel Pin Media can be purchased from STM.
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  #28  
Old 09-11-2012, 08:26 PM
Jellybean Jellybean is offline
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Please excuse my cranial flatulence, it's a Lortone.
It is a rotary tumbler but only has a 6 lb drum, which is alright as I don't shoot rifles much anymore and don't need a large capacity. Due to our poor financial state I was trying to get away with a cheap setup, but there is a technical page on the Lortone website that has made me a little leary of using the rubber drum. I'm thinking I'll wait until I can afford a better set up.
Thanks for your input.
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:02 AM
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Jellybean,

Keep an eye out on E-bay for a used one.

Also garage sales and flea markets.

People and kids give up on rock collecting, Thumbler's Tumblers become available.
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Old 09-12-2012, 02:04 PM
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Thanks for the heads up on e-bay, Moonman, I'll keep that in mind if things get better.

The only thing flea markets are good for around here are cheap Chinese tools and puppy mills that are selling mutts for unbelievably high prices.
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:57 AM
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Thanks for the excellent post on this topic. Very good info !!
  #32  
Old 09-18-2012, 12:22 PM
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I have a $39 Midway vibratory cleaner and the corn cob media with a small shot of Red Rooster in the media cleans and shines my brass in 2 hrs of less. It ain't broke, so I don't intend to fix it.
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  #33  
Old 09-18-2012, 05:06 PM
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ATTENTION !!!!!!!!

THIS IS A STAINLESS STEEL TUMBLING THREAD!!!!!!

PLEASE start your own How I Tumble thread.

Thank You.
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  #34  
Old 10-30-2012, 05:46 PM
gwalchmai gwalchmai is offline
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What's this thread about, anyway?

Seriously, I ordered SSMedia's tumbler kit with 5lbs of pins and some LemiShine (which I also use in the dishwasher) Sunday. Should be here Friday.

What do y'all use to decap your brass. I ran a bunch of .45 ACP through my Dillon 550 with a 30-06 neck sizing die and it works OK. I used it instead of a single stage because the Dillon's primer catcher works well, but for mass quantities I'd like something a little more efficient.

I'll post my results when I get them.
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:47 PM
Jim Watson Jim Watson is offline
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I am at present using steel pins in a rotary tumbler for my black powder cases ONLY. It is more work than walnut hull in a vibratory, which I continue to find adequate for smokeless.

The pins clean well, primer pocket and case interior included.
They do not polish as well as the wet ceramic I used until a few months ago but are a lot easier to separate from the brass.
  #36  
Old 10-31-2012, 08:14 AM
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gwalchmai,

I just use a single stage BIG BOSS II to deprime, it catches them through the ram and into a piece of plastic tubing.

I too would be interested if someone has a RAPID PRIMER REMOVER for a large amount of brass.
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  #37  
Old 10-31-2012, 09:06 AM
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I haven't cleaned primer pockets in years, tumblng cases first to remove dirt and grit before sizing. Never been a problem.
  #38  
Old 11-02-2012, 03:50 AM
Ivan the Butcher Ivan the Butcher is offline
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I just go ahead and size my cases and have that done. I've gone to a water based lube so it cleans right off during the cleaning/tumbling prosess. Almost all of this is on rifle and single shot pistol cases, the regular pistol cases get the same old treatment(s) and get deprimed in the sizing station on the progessives. Ivan
  #39  
Old 11-04-2012, 12:20 PM
gwalchmai gwalchmai is offline
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OK, got a Model B from STM last Friday, and I've tumbled a bunch of brass. It's great. The only thing I want to improve is the retrieval of the pins. I'm dropping them on the floor during the media separation and some are falling out of the brass when it dries.

Has anyone tried putting magnets in the media separator? I'm thinking they'd help scavenge the pins. After I dried the brass on a towel I used a magnet to pick up the few (10-20) that fell out on the towel during drying.

Overall, I'm very impressed.
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:39 PM
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Place a magnet inside a BAGGIE, move around amongst Drained Brass & Pins,
lift out to a container or back into the Drum for pins, Pull Magnet away from the baggie side and the pins will drop.
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  #41  
Old 03-02-2013, 12:37 PM
dswancutt dswancutt is offline
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Moonman, could you take a picture of the drain system you made for your tumbler, thanks.
  #42  
Old 03-02-2013, 03:18 PM
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Once the timer shuts off, how long can you leave the brass unattended before you have more work to do? IOW, what kind of issues (if any) develop when the brass is left in solution for extended periods?

One of the big reasons I like dry tumbling outdoors is I don't have to be there when they finish . . . I can even go away for the weekend.

Also, do you have to check for pins stuck in the brass? I'm not terribly concerned that a stray piece of walnut might remain, but I don't know what a stainless steel pin projectile might be like.

Good opening post, Moonman! A couple of pictures short of perfect in fact!
  #43  
Old 08-15-2015, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rule3 View Post
If you are cleaning the primer pockets this means you are de priming dirty cases before cleaning?? Does this damage your dies??

How are you drying your brass. The alcohol method? Or do you put them in the kitchen oven??

How can you have such advanced technology and not have pictures??
I have tried several methods of drying. The best I have found is a Food Hydrator from Walmart. Inexpensive & has 4 trays. You can dry over 500 pieces of brass at a time or just a few. Only takes about 15 minuets.
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Old 08-15-2015, 09:36 PM
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My primer pockets don't get dirt in them as they have a primer in them that keeps it out. The spent primer also keeps corn cob media out of the pocket also. When I remove the spent primer with my 550 the punch clears out anything that might have been in the hole. As for the primer pocket being nice and pretty well I never notice because it has a new primer in it. I seldom shoot my handguns at 800 yards so don't worry about it much. Don
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  #45  
Old 08-15-2015, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magload View Post
My primer pockets don't get dirt in them as they have a primer in them that keeps it out. The spent primer also keeps corn cob media out of the pocket also. When I remove the spent primer with my 550 the punch clears out anything that might have been in the hole. As for the primer pocket being nice and pretty well I never notice because it has a new primer in it. I seldom shoot my handguns at 800 yards so don't worry about it much. Don
My feelings on the subject too. I have a couple of the model B rotary tumblers and considered trying the wet method...but the price of the pins is pretty hefty and I decided my brass just ain't that dirty. Sounds neat but a friend does his brass this way and he gave me a bit of 44 sp . It was sure clean. He also told me to run it for 15-20 minutes in a dry tumbler as he said it is so clean it wants to bind the loading process up a bit. I noted a post or two on Brian Enos's site concerning this problem. I lightly lube my pistol cases with spray lube anyway. Very light
  #46  
Old 08-16-2015, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CLM View Post
I have tried several methods of drying. The best I have found is a Food Hydrator from Walmart. Inexpensive & has 4 trays. You can dry over 500 pieces of brass at a time or just a few. Only takes about 15 minuets.
You do realize you're responding to a 2.5 year old post don't you? I think they've probably figured it out by now.
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:54 AM
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Seems like something I'd love to see, and have, but not sure the amount I currently clean and reload would justify the cost. However, thanks for posting! Gives me something to keep in mind.
  #48  
Old 08-16-2015, 08:17 AM
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Bring it back to life.
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  #49  
Old 08-16-2015, 10:24 AM
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Bring it back to life.
I thought there was a standing do not resuscitate order??
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:33 AM
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I weld stainless steel, but I tumble with tumbling media.
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