OK, my fellow reloaders, I need a little help and advice. I'm getting all my dies, etc. for my new Dillon 550B in .38Spl/.357Mag as a birthday present from my dear and darling wife. That said, I've done quite a bit of reading on what bullet to buy for my first reloading of this caliber. I started with .45ACP and now it's time to move on. I was shooting my Mod 66-2 at the range yesterday and it really is accurate. Hopefully that will be my last box of factory ammo.

So, I'm thinking very seriously about trying some Berry's bullets. 158gr round nose. I'll be using Win231 powder. How about suggesting some recipes for me. What data would I look for in the reloading manuals? FMJ, TMJ, lead? I've got the new Lyman, Speer and Hornady manuals. I've read some good reports on this forum about Berrys'. Can't hardly beat the price either. Just a little over $100 for a 1,000. Thanks for any and all suggestions and help.

4.0 grains with an OAL of 1.45. Smoooth!

Thanks. Will take that under advisement. I'm sure you've had good luck with this recipe and Win231. Do you like Berry's bullets?

I have found in my S&W revolvers that bullets with flat bases seem to work the best for punching paper. I seem to get noticably less accurate performance with bevel base bullets. W231 has worked well for me.

In a word: Yes.

I have loaded thousands of them in 9mm/38spl and 45acp. I do not load them in .357 because of the limitations of the plating. ANything approaching 1200 fps and they come apart. W231/HP38 is an excellent powder for this bullet. 4.0 is an accurate, comfortable load and can be increased if you feel the need.

As long as the range doesn't require plating I'd just go with lead, there a huge variety available at good prices, as far loads goes the 38/357 is about the easiest most forgiving round you can load, the only way to find out what shoots best it to do it yourself. Start low and keep bumping it up about .2 at a time until you hit max keeping an eye out for pressure signs. If you want nice holes in paper try some full wadcutters.

Now that's what I wanted to hear. Someone whose been there and done that. And it looks as if you surely fit that bill. I'm going to go with it, I think. Have plenty of Win231. I do want to load some .357 but not nearly as many as .38Spl. I can find another bullet for that. It would seem it would be pretty hard to beat $100 per 1000 for the Berry's. Thanks for the info. Got any idea what 4.0gr Win231 and their 158gr bullet chronos out at?

4.0 - 231 is good but I prefer a semi wad bullet.
Dick

Berrys 38/357 158 gr Round Nose Double Struck 1000 Count
$101.00

MBC Lead Cowboy #11
.358 Diameter
.38 Special
158 Grain RN
Brinell 12
For Cowboy Velocities
Price per box of 500
Price: $32.50

Use plated bullets because you like them, not because of the price.

I agree, plated bullets are no bargain and lead is much cheaper.

My 2 favorite .38 special loads are:
148gr DEWC over 3.4gr W231
158gr LSWC over 4.0gr W231

Both are very accurate and fun to shoot. The SWC load can double as a small game load too...

__________________
Freedom is never free!!
SWCA #3437

Don't forget the shipping charges. Berry's = free. MBC = $13.50. So it becomes $78.50 vs. $101. Not arguing your point - it's a valid one, just painting a more complete picture.

You will like the W231,,,

I think you will learn to like lead in 38 spl. for paper punching.

If you like the last box of factory ammo, see if you can find out the spcs on it, bullet wt. vel. ect.
have fun
Happy birthday
tb

__________________
frontsightnsqueaz

I second the lead preference, and Missouri bullet. While they do charge shipping. They use flat rate boxes and you can get up to 2000rds for that 13$

I second the lead bullet reference but I don't buy them.
From free wheel weights, mine cost much less and I get ones that are really cool too!

Now doggone it, Skip I'm supposed to wait until I retire to get into boolit casting. You keep putting up those pictures and I'm going to have to start that new venture prematurely!

+1 to BERRY'S .38 spl 158gr RN & 4.0gr Win 231.
After loading commercial cast bullets for about a year I shifted over to plated to get away from the mess. When reloading cast bullets, lube would end up everywhere.
Was still using single stage process, expect lube residue could really cause problems w/my progressive system.
Was also spending too much time cleaning lube residue off the finished rounds.
Cleaning firearm after shooting was more tedious and time consuming.
Decided my time and convenience were worth far more than cost differential.
Good Luck, Kevin

Thanks Kevin. I really thinking about Berry's.

What, wait a minute here!

Is that a fork in the background?
And I was lead to believe, right here on this forum, that food and lead don't mix.
Maybe you just like to admire those boolits from across the table while you eat, a sure sign of boolit/ reloaders addiction.

Lead is cheeper and if the indoor range I often shoot at would allow them that's all I would shoot.

Never had any problems with bullet lubricant on a progressive either.

The load Data folks are quoting seems dead on too.

/c

If bullet lube on cast or swaged lead bullets is amessy/stickey problem, put a box or 3 in the refrigerator over night.