I apologize in advance for no pics - I tried taking some, but the detail is really small and doesn't appear in the pics. I also searched and couldn't find this topic.

Thanks in advance for your comments!

I'm reloading .38 Special. Basic stuff - Lee single stage press, WIN 231 between 3.4gr and 4.3gr. 158gr LSWC or 158gr RN - typically from Missouri Bullet Co. I'm normally shooting these out of 4" K frames; 15-2, 67-1, 686 etc. I also shoot some out of a Rossi M92 lever gun (more on this in a bit).

I have a fairly large collection of brass which has been reloaded about 4-5 times. I cycle them in an order so they get reloaded the same amount of times.

Problem: I've started noticing tiny micro-splits in a small %, (say 3% to 5%) of the case mouths. A have a much higher incidence when I shoot the hotter (4.3gr of WIN 231 - not that hot) out of the lever gun.

Questions:
1. Is this amount of 'wear' normal for that number of reloads?
2. The lever gun has a chamfered charge hole, so I don't think they're catching on the edge of the chamber. So, do you think this wear is pressure related? (sidebar; the Rossi M92 is chambered for .357, so do think that's an issue?)
3. I have not tried resizing any of them yet, but if I can shave off the cracked portion would they be safe to reload? Or should I just trash them?
4. Now to the reloading process; I'm flaring the case mouths at the standard (half turn in) using Lee Carbide dies. Then I'm inspecting them, so they're not split before the bullet is seated and I've not noticed that the bullet-seating process is splitting them. Any suggestions on flaring or seating process?

I've got about 30-40 per thousand that are now showing these signs of wear and don't want to reload them if they're not safe.

Thanks in advance for your comments!

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But then, what do I know?

All visibly cracked or split cases go into the recycle bin.

If you have to use a magnifier to see micro mouth cracks, stop using the magnifier! We are not interested in the tiny irregularties in the case mouths of a .38 spl.

As to why cracks? Premature case mouth splits are often caused by over-expanding the mouths, thus overworking the metal, hardening it, and then cracking it. The microscopic precursors of this happen sooner.
Bottom line: Shoot the brass until it gets macro splits, and then toss it. You may be surprised how long that takes.

I have never seen a gun damaged by a .38 splitting when fired.

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Science plus Art

Thanks. Ignoring the possible irregularities in my reading glasses , if I have to use a magnifying glass to see them, then I'll keep using them.

Just to be clear; what I'm calling 'micro-splits' can be felt with your fingers, but you have to look really close to SEE them. I don't actually use a magnifying glass... Just my old eyes

Sounds like it's not a big deal though. Thanks again.

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But then, what do I know?

When I start to see tiny splits in the case mouth I get rid of the brass and move on. It happens after multiple reloading and case crimping. I have reloaded up to 10-12 times per brass and would start to notice slight splitting and throw them away. I only throw away the split ones and I keep a close check on them all.

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James
On the Llano Estacado

I believe that it's due to expanding the neck and then roll crimping when loading. Kinda like bending a coat hanger until it breaks. I've noticed that I lose four or five 38 or 357 cases to one 45 acp case due to split necks. The only difference in my loading is that I roll crimp the revolver cases and taper crimp the 45 acps. I've also noticed more failure in nickle plated cases than plain brass ones.

Just be sure you are not over flaring the cases. That is primary reason for case mouth splits. I would not be concerned, you will know when they are SPLIT

Only cases I ever had split were 357 Nickle plated but they split down the sides.

If the teeny tiny things you are talking about ar just rough edges of the case mouth, does a deburring tool remove them.??

One of these:

Chamfer & Deburring Tools | Case Cleaning & Preparation

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Still Running Against the Wind

Yes, I'm roll-crimping. Standard lee "Factory crimp die".

Thanks for mentioning the deburring tool. I'll try that.

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But then, what do I know?

Many of my "Target cases" have small splits around the top
of the case. As long as they stay small I keep on loading them.
Only when the split gets about 1/8" long or is in the side of the case
or has four or more cracks that might not support
the bullet or effect accuracy or fps, do I discard the case.

At my age, I now use an old T-shirt or light cotton rag and
twist the case mouth in it, which will usually tug at the material
when a split comes around. I then add this case to the "Used/Old" case lot for my target loads.

I usually start of a new case with Maximum or hot loads and
taper off each time the case is loaded for my testing. Most
will hold up to 4-5 heavy loads before the first little split shows up.
One reason I log the number of times the lot has been fired
which lets me know how good the brass is per its manufacturer.

Wear and tear will have an effect on the fps and accuracy over
the long haul for High Vel. loads but with light target loads
you will be amazed at how long a batch of shells will last.

I posted a picture awhile back on a thread of some really old
w-w 38 spl. cases that are split, nickel worn off, just plain "Ugly" but still keep on ticking.

Good shooting.

Are you sure you're not seeing just tiny nicks? Nicks can lead to splits, so it's best to chamfer the inside/outside to remove them.

As for me, I reload until the case develops a definite split then toss.

Thanks soooo much for all the comments. PERFECT.

I'm going to use the deburring/chamfer tool and quit worrying.

Nevada; gotta say - the t-shirt idea is a LOT better idea than my finger tips (ouch)!

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But then, what do I know?