Looking into doing some very small scale reloading. I'm not sure where to start but found the little lee classic loader to be cheap enough to try my hand at it. Since I'm new to this, what else would be needed besides, the hammer (which I have the proper one already), ammo supplies, and reloading book? I'm thinking things like a scale, brass tumbler, etc?

This will be for 38 special. Thanks for any help or pointing me to the right direction!

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Jim

A good scale and reloading manual,a set of dippers and maybe a hand priming tool would be plenty for now.
You can wash the brass in water with some bar keepers friend to save on a case cleaner.
Edit:I taught myself about 30 years ago using a Speer reloading manual that came in a starter kit.As long as you understand the process and can follow directions,it's pretty easy.

First get the book ABC of reloading an read. Its easy but there is a lot to learn to be safe. Go on line there are a lot of videos for reloading. You need dies, press, bullet puller, tumbler to clean brass, scale, some kind of powder drop. The book will cover it all. I got mine on Ebay. Well worth it. An take your time. If possible find someone to help get you started.

Boogsawaste,

You DON'T NEED TO DO A LITTLE RELOADING!

You NEED to spend a COUPLE MONTHS READING about the process,

Then it's even better if you can locate someone to MENTOR YOU in the process.

You might also LOOK FOR AN NRA CERTIFIED RELOADING CLASS/INSTRUCTOR, and take it.

Reloading CAN BE DANGEROUS to you and others along with your firearms.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

I bought a reloading kit from midway read the short manual it came with and have been reloading for three years. You do not need to read for months that's just insane.
Not saying not to learn but you do not need to pay for classes as the nra instructor says.

I got started after spending a half hour-45 minutes reading my Speer #9 manual. I'm no speed reader, but it doesn't take two months. Reloading is not rocket science, but it does require your full attention.

It sounds like you want to get started on the cheap, and there's nothing wrong with that. Not all of us can afford to drop $500+ on a reloading set up with all the goodies. After nearly 40 years of reloading, I'm still using the "World's Finest Reloading Press" sold by Herters that cost something like $35 at the time.

A tumbler is not a necessity unless bright shiny brass is your desire. Brass only "needs' to be clean. I tumble mine to get rid of the dirt/grit they collect at the range. Otherwise, a good wipedown will suffice.

A good powder dropper will speed up the process of loading powder. Once you set it for the amount of powder you desire, you can quickly load every empty case.

A digital caliper for measurements. I use the $10 one from Harbor Freight and it's worked fine for a long time. HF has two versions, one measures to .01, the other to .001. You want the latter.

A good reloading manual--or two. There are many out there, and having more than one will cover more items. Be aware that the load data between any two manual will not agree. They are guides, not bibles.

I would suggest a good hand primer. I went with the RCBS over Lee because the Lee uses brand-specific shell holders where RCBS uses standard shell holders.

There are tons of "accessories" that aren't needed, but you may want. I haven't cleaned a primer pocket in ages, but they have tools for that. A reloading tray is nice, but you can make one out of a 1x6 plank and a drill just as easily.

Make sure you buy carbide dies of whatever brand you choose.

You'll have a few (?) questions when you start, so a mentor will be a great help.

Before you do anything like buying reloading equipment.......check for local and internet sources for ALL your components (primers,powder,bullets,brass). You aren't going to load anything without having a supply on hand.

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Armed and Dangerous

You can start small with a Lee Loader. I used them for years for pistol and rifle because I wanted to keep things simple and cheap. One drawback is that there are aspects of reloading that working with the Lee Loader doesn't give you. Headspace, case/cartridge lengths, the need to trim cases are all concepts you need to be familiar with. Knowing the reloading ins and outs is ESSENTIAL.

First and foremost is a reloading manual. Besides data they have great 'how to' sections. Get that first and be studying it while you are obtaining equipment and components.

I'd recommend a pair of calipers.

Knowing what kind of shooting you will be doing will tell you what bullets and powders you need to use. The data sections will tell you that. Mild target loads, hunting loads.

I don't think you said what cartridge you will be loading for. Some are easier and more basic like the .38 special. For 9mm you have to be very careful of length or you can get a dangerous situation.

Be aware of the double charge of fast burning powder. It can wreck your gun and you.

Crimping with Lee Loader is problematic because it is uncontrolled. Types of crimps (or no crimp)for which cartridge is important to know.

These aren't essential, but two things I find to help using a scale are Lee powder scoops (they're cheap) and a powder trickler. Get the load close with the scoop and trickle it up to proper weight. SOMETIMES the Lee scoops are the right size and you can just use them after checking the charge thrown with the scale. Don't rely on that stupid calculator that comes with the scoops. It's miles off.

I guess that's enough to keep you busy.

Have fun but be careful, thorough and safe!

The advice to buy a copy of "The ABC's Of Reloading" is sound. Amazon carries it electronically for Kindle ($14.84) as well as paperback ($19.17). It's a good jumping off point.

The ABCs Of Reloading: The Definitive Guide for Novice to Expert: Rodney James: 9781440213960: Amazon.com: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51fVqjMi0rL.@@AMEPARAM@@51fVqjMi0rL

As far as reloading manuals, there are as many available as the fingers on your hands. A lot of us started with the Lyman - 49th is the current one. ($19.99).

Amazon.com : Lyman 49Th Edition Reloading Handbook : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51xvB4vqFkL.@@AMEPARAM@@51xvB4vqFkL


We do like to enhance the mystique of hand loading but to tell the truth, it isn't rocket science. If you are reasonably intelligent, have a do-it-yourself mentality and can concentrate for an hour at a time, you can reload. Have fun and be safe!

Reloading Basics (Decisions To Make) - YouTube

Well done, Sir!

To the OP, Hickok45 is a very wise Tennessean who has some good videos and some down home common sense advice.

When I buy stuff I'm all about that go big or go home theory. When I looked at reloading kits, I found that hornady super delux awesome kit. It's $2,000+. I have yet to buy one due to bills and other things in the life category but I too am interested in making my own range/target rounds. I also understand that hornady bullet factory super delux kit is a whole lot overkill for 9mm, 40, and 45. I'll get into it someday with some reasonable stuff.

But this post and book recommendation was a great pointer as I can buy the book now and simple things along the way before I fully commit and begin my bullet factory.

the original point and click interface, by Smith and Wesson

The bare minimum you need to reload a round of 38 Special, in addition to the Lee Loader is an appropriate powder, a small pistol primer, and a .357-.358" projectile. I believe the loader will contain adequate instructions and load data, as well as everything absolutely necessary.

You will quickly find, however, that there are numerous other items needed to actually make the process tolerable.

The Lee Reloading Manual is an excellent starting point. It covers the basics using either Lee load dippers or a power measure. Lots of info, lots of loads and its cheap.

The 38 spl is probably one of the easiest cartridges to learn on - I don't know what you are doing for projectiles but wander on over to this site

Cast Boolits

It's easy to join and you can usually pick up lead projectiles at a reasonable price from some of the suppliers. There's nothing wrong with a Lee Classic - a lot of folks have been using 'em for a lot of years. Get a good manual and read the pistol cartridge loading section. You will find data for the 38 spl that will give you the load for certain projectiles, etc. It will give you the minimum and maximum grain wt. for the powder. A lot of folks utilize dippers and they work fine. Just start low and work your load up. Once you determine your powder that you are going to use - there are a number of good ones for 38 spl - you can always make yourself a dipper out of a cartridge case cut down to the correct size for you load. I believe the Classic comes with a dipper and a chart?

If you decide once you start reloading to make a step up in your equipment - before buying new, check out eBay and the like. I bought a RCBS single stage Junior 2 and a Junior 3 very reasonably and they, like others, will do everything thing you need to do.

Google Titan - they handle Lee and are very competitive on their prices. It's not necessary to tumble your brass - shoot it and reload it. If you want it pretty, then as mentioned, you can wash it and clean it up. The link I gave you has many different threads on lead bullets, equipment, casting, loads, etc. - it's a great sight and you can learn a lot over there - don't be afraid to ask questions.

Be safe, do your reading and research and don't push the limits on the loads you do. Get on different reloading forums as there is a lot of good information out there - just sort it out and if not sure, ask. Good luck, be safe and have fun. I cast my own bullets and have the brass so the only expense I really have is the cost of the primer, powder and my time which I have plenty of - beats the price of the ammo on the shelf.

By the way . . . if you don't have or haven't saved your brass, you can usually buy used brass from a number of sources - I recently purchased a 1,000 plus once fired brass for about $70 - usually you can get it for between 6 and 8 cents a casing for 38 spl.

Visit You Tube, many videos showing the actual operation involved.

Good Luck

I've reloaded for more than fifty years because I love to shoot. I knew that I could not shoot if I did not reload, so over several months, I bought a basic reloading set up. Then, I bought my first centerfire weapon. Start slow and check every step as you go. I did not know anyone that reloaded. My first reloaded cartridge was fired with my arm around a tree. If it blew up, I would only lose a hand.

Don't forget eye protection!

Always difficult, I think, to make any kind of recommendations since everyone's background varies. Some people's extent of tool knowledge is literally "There's a pair of pliers in the kitchen junk drawer". Reloading presses, and related tools, are essentially a new set of tools to learn how to use. Feeling the primers seat, feeling when there's something binding because the force needed to move the ram is a little higher than normal, etc.

Some guys get in with $3500 worth of equipment and when putting together have to tell themselves "Let's see, is it 'righty tighty?'". Others get in with $750 worth of stuff, but already have wrenches, screwdrivers, magnifiers, task lighting, grease guns etc.

Perhaps one of the more overlooked pieces of equipment is the BENCH you mount the thing on. I'm pretty sure nobody's going to be happy with "Oh I'll just clamp it to the kitchen table once a month and make a few rounds". You need a LARGE and ROCK SOLID bench. That nearly always means it's permanant.

And perhaps the other most overlooked item is components. As others have mentioned, see if you can find powder, primers, brass and bullets in your area or online and realize the costs and simply the availability (or non-availability) before you invest a grand or two or three on hardware.

I don't own any paper copies of reloading manuals.
I've never owned "ABCs of Reloading".
Every loading recipe in every book can be found online in a more updated configuration (if an update exists).
There are eleventy gazillion YouTubes of people reloading.

Here's a very partial list of stuff. Some have less, some have more. I consider this a very small setup -

Bench
Press
Gizmo to lift the press off the bench to ideal height
Comfortable chair/stool if you sit
Dies for your caliber
Digital Scale
Tumbler
Media for tumbler, including NuFinish and Mineral Spirits
Media/brass spinner-separator
Task lighting
Magnifiers
Set of open/box end wrenches
Set of screwdrivers
Precision tweezers
Slip joint, water pump and needle nose pliers
Dozen or more Acro style bins
Dozen LARGE bins (cut off plastic gallon or 2.5 gallon water bottles)
Bullet puller
Grease gun w/grease
Powdered graphite
Primer pocket cleaner
Canned air or small air compressor or pig tank filled from your big compressor
Loading blocks
Boxes or baggies or something to put your loaded rounds into
Waste basket
Recycle basket for paper/cardboard
Recycle basket for brass

There's more.
Nearly everything on the list above is really inexpensive. A primer pocket cleaner is $3. A bullet puller is $15. Tumbler media is $20 for enough to last you for maybe a decade. Nothing too expensive, just a LOT of little things. Some are going to say "You don't need a tumbler". Ok so work your way around it. The cost is only about $60-80. "You don't need canned air or a compressor". Ok so save $10-20 but then go through a lot of paper towels, add a soft brush to the list etc. In other words, the list is certainly fluid, but removing any one item is only a few bucks.

At some point in your research, try and estimate all the approximate costs and then say "I can buy enough ammo right now to last my particular style of use for the next 20 years for that amount". Then plug that reality into the picture. If you shoot 50 rounds a month the cost of reloading vs buying new ammo is huge. If you shoot 500 rounds a week, reloading appears a lot more financially promising. If you care to, figure in the non-tangible aspects like "What if zombies attack and ammo isn't available?" or "I shoot some discipline (bench? Cowboy action?) that is better served by me reloading than buying commercial rounds.

One thing I find with those entering reloading - if they're the type to look at a mechanical challenge (vehicle, electronics etc) and immediately say "Oh man, that's going to be a lot of work", those people won't be happy reloading. There are a gazillion little mechanical things in reloading that have to work together. Each one of them requires constant attention. You can't just "finally get it set right" and then forget about it. When a cartridge doesn't come together you have to be able to diagnose which of those gazillion things have slipped out of spec to make the problem present itself.

If you enjoy tools and tinkering, you'll probably enjoy reloading. It's a sport/hobby all it's own.


Sgt Lumpy

Youtube is a fantastic resource that I often use myself. Many videos however, lack detail. Books will often flag things that are of critical importance. I could go on, but an authoritative source will do better in organization and completeness rather than 300 people who make internet videos. Use the internet for questions or a demonstration that you don't get out of the book.

One demonstration of the Lee Loaders that I like is the one where the guy shows how to make a cartridge in 40 seconds.

Reloading with a Lee Loader - YouTube

But Lee Loaders only 'neck size' and whatever cartridge he showed didn't need a crimp.

This one explains a roll crimp for a rimmed cartridge

A crimp on things - YouTube

I have been reloading with a Lee turret press and the Lee reloading manual. Read the book and take your time and you'll fine. I was loading about a hour after I got the press setup. It's not hard but you do have to pay attention to what you are doing. I have 3 or 4 other reloading manuals and I have down load the reloading information for the powder manufactures for the powders I use.

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Carpriver.

Thanks for the ideas everyone.

When I say "a little reloading", I'm talking just to try it out and see if its something I want to pursue in the future. I'd be more than happy to be able to sit or a 1/2 hour or an hour and make a box. I don't shoot a ton and there are supplies locally I can pick up. I don't want to jump in head first and buy $1k+ of equipment.

As far as my mechanical background. I have been using tools as long as toys. I worked for many years in the automotive field as a technician, switched over to electronics by working in a casino on slot machines, and finally ended up in the medical field working in biomedical engineering. I still work on cars for myself building everything from v8 muscle (have a 66 nova I'm restoring in my garage a the moment), to turbo alcohol injected 4 cylinder cars. I have many tools that I can use for this such as several digital calipers and a nice bench as well as safety equipment like goggles, gloves, and even respirators. I also have ventilation in the garage (to evacuate welding fumes), that could help with lead dust etc.

So I'm very confident working with my hands, however as stated reloading can be very dangerous. Taking my time and being careful are definitely number one on my list. Another reason I want to start small is because of that. If I start small, very small, I will learn and be more careful working on such a small amount at a time.

So I'll pick up a couple reloading books (I like to have an actual book to reference while in the garage), and start reading up more and checking out YouTube. Thanks again everyone!

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Jim

Forgot to add that I'm not looking to make ultra powerful defense loads or anything. I just want some cheaper ammo to practice and have fun with. Basic target loads. For my defense rounds, I'll just stick with factory stuff. Thanks again. You all gave lots of good info and recommendations.

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Jim

Where do you live? You are welcome to come here, if by chance you are local, and use my stuff to give it a try. I expect others would offer you the same. All you'd need to bring is brass, primers, powder, and projectiles.

Jim,
Take a look at the Lee Hand Press. Not expensive, and so much easier to reload with than the " Whack-A-Mole" loaders. I started with the hammer driven ones, prior to Hand Press invention, so I know how they work the limitations and how incrediably slow they are. The hand press is so much better and not expensive. I have three bench mounted presses but find the Hand Press so "handy", sorry about that bad pun, that I have two of the hand presses and use them all the time. I can reload any where inside the house and not be stuck in an unheated, unairconditioned outbuilding if I don't want to.
Check them out and good luck .
Gary

To safely use a Lee Loader to seat primers, you need a quality pair of safety glasses and foam ear plugs. That FIRST primer detonation will get your attention. Trust me, there will be at least one. It might be only one, the last one, or just the first one.

You now have the Knowledge (wisdom) of my Experience.

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S&WHF 366

The process of reloading is simple enough. It is fun and satisfying, not to mention that it is a way to save a few bucks. When I first started, it was on a lee loader. Then I graduated to a Lyman Spar T press. New it was 10.00. I see them on ebay from time to time for more than 10.00, but a regular press is easier to deal with than a lee loader. And full length resizing in carbide dies is the way to go.

You can invest a lot in this, but it is not necessary. What is necessary is to read manuals, and stay within their parameters for given loads. Understand that changing components( primers) changes pressures. Also, if you are shooting vintage firearms, be kind to them, and keep the loads on the lighter side. The quality of today's gun steel is better than that of 75 years ago.

Reloading and ballistics is a science, and moreso if you are tuning loads to a rifle barrel, but you can also tune a load to a pistol.

Understand the different characteristics of the burning rate of powders, and what detonation is ( not good).

While I graduated away from bullet shooting to clay target shooting, reloading shotshells was what I did the most of, and I used to try out all sorts of stuff. However, when I wanted to try non published loads, I used to call the good people at Hercules Powder, give them my recipe, and they would load it in their crusher" test gun" and give me the velocity spread and pressure data. I do not know if anybody will do that for you today.

Just be careful, read, and wander into this slowly and with purpose. Another thing, if you are going to shoot lead, use a good quality hard cast bullet. It helps with leading.

Good luck, and have fun

Thanks again everyone. By the way, I'm in hellertown pa. It's very close to Allentown.

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Jim

That's a pretty good piece from Tennessee. Perhaps there's someone here local to you who'd give you a hand in the right direction.

Our local Cabelas has free reloading classes on Sundays, one is an overview and the other is a basic setup and walk through. Looks like there's a Cabelas not too far from you (40 miles or so). I'd call and see if they also conduct such courses. They are FREE!

Huh, didn't know they offered a class like that. I've been to that cabelas a couple times. Might have to look into seeing if mine offers the same. Thanks for the suggestion.

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Jim

Keep it simple. Understand what is happening in each step. For my powders, I like those that give full cases to prevent the remote chance of any overcharge.

It came with a scoop that threw exactly 2.8 grains of Bullseye (I checked it out on an analytical scale) which is an ideal target load. I just threw powder with the scoop to make a couple of thousand rounds. Didn't even need a scale for that.

I had one boom tapping in a primer using Lee Loaders, but that sucka was LOUD. I had my glasses on but no hearing protection.

edit : wrong topic

Moon man I f we all took the class we wouldn't need this forum ,then what would you do for fun???????

When you first start out like bart says use powder that fills the case,for the min. loads .

Another bargain basement press is this one:

https://fsreloading.com/lee-precisio...ess-90045.html

It is not a high quality, long term press, although it may well serve as a stand alone decapping station when you move up to something better.

The other option is to spend another $60 or $70 and get the classic turret press.

https://fsreloading.com/lee-precisio...ess-90064.html

You can prime with the turret press without purchasing anything else. It is a long term press. It may not be the last press you ever buy, but is a high quality press that should give many years of reloading.

Bottom line is you will realistically need to spend a couple hundred to get set up. A press, a scale, a measure, dies, a set of calipers. I would consider a reloading manual as a must, as well. Some presses have on press priming included. If you get one that doesn't, you will also need some form of a priming device. A Lee ram prime is probably the cheapest, a hand primer is more expensive, but much faster.

You can use dippers, but a powder measure can be had for not all that much more $, and is far more practical, especially for handgun calibers. I have a stand alone measure, and a through the die measure. The through the die is soooo much faster.

Here is what I load on. Prices are current from FSreloading and are rounded.

Lee Classic Turret press 89
Auto disk pro measure 41
Lee balance scale 21
.38 spl 3 die set 27
HF dial calipers 15

Grand Total: 193 plus shipping.

This is a decent reloading setup, although not a dream setup by most anyone's standards. Still, it is a setup capable of producing quality ammo in a reasonable time. I clean my cases in a plastic jar with citric acid (unsweetened lemonaide Koolaid). I have one of the $3 primer pocket cleaners, but now use an old toothbrush. I have a small inexpensive electronic weight scale that is much easier to use than the beam scale. I also have a set of 9mm dies and another turret plate that allows for quick changeover of calibers.

I started out with the Lee handloader that a buddy loaned me. It was great for learning on. I highly recommend spending a little more on a decent press. If you decide not to pursue reloading, you can probably offload the equipment without losing much.

Well guys I haven't don't much with this in the last month besides Internet reading. Been busy at home with other projects. After familiarizing myself with some terms and tools needed, revisiting this thread again and it makes a lot more sense.

Santa was nice enough to get me some gift cards to cabelas so a trip this weekend will have me returning with a couple manuals and a press along with associated dies and whatever else I can get my grubby hands on. I decided to skip on the lee loader and spend a couple bucks more on either a bench mounted unit or the hand held one. Thanks again everyone for their input and opinions.

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Jim