This question has most likely been addressed before, but I did a few searches and did not find anything. So..........Where can I find reloading tables for the above bullets? I'm primarily interested in 38 cal., 110 gr or 125 gr.

Use the loading data on the projectile manufacturers website, or use lead data for projectiles of the same weight.

DO NOT load plated projectiles to more than 1200FPS or so.

DO NOT heavily roll crimp a plated projectile. Gentile taper crimp or no crimp

These days, most (if not all) of the plated bullet manufacturers say to load plated using low to midrange jacketed data. I just developed a .9mm load using RMR 115 gr. plated RN, over 4.6 grs. Of Titegroup which is .1 gr. over jacketed min. (Min. Is 4.5 grs.) and boy are they nice. No over pressure, no issues....clean and accurate!

G

For the most part, you won't. AA has some data using their powders & some plated bullets. The rule of thumb, plated load between a lead & jacketed bullet. If there is no lead bullet data to check against the jacketed data, use starting jacketed data & work it up carefully, avoiding the top end jacketed data with plated bullets.
As colt notes, go light on the crimp & head the 1200fps rule. I have pushed plated to 1300fps in my 357sig & accuracy starts to suffer past 1250fps.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

I've compared Plated and Jacketed bullets using the same charge of SR7625 (5.4 gn) and the same weight bullet (180 gn) in the 40 caliber and the resulting velocities are functionally identical (950 fps). My conclusion is that plated and jacketed bullets produce the same level of friction in hte barrel and that does make sense because they are both coated with the same material. So, I believe that you can safely use Jacketed data with just one provision noted, that is to NOT exceed the 1200 fps. recommended as a maximum by most makers of plated bullets. Personally I treat 1100 fps as a maximum and have NEVER had any issues.

I'll also note that I've used and measured the diameters of bullets from RMR, Berry's, HSM, Extreme, and Rainier and the only notable difference is a minor difference in length. ALL of the plated bullets that I have measured in 38/357, 40, and 45 ACP have had diameters within 0.0002 inch of an average that is 0.0017 inch over the GROOVE diameter of the caliber. So, when you see some brands labeled as +0.001 and others labeled as +0.002 you can pretty much count on them actually measuring at +0.0017 if you break out some precision micrometers.

"Google" or similar Search Engines are a good place to start. Type in the brand of bullet you purchased along with the words "load information":

From Berry's Preferred Plated Bullets FAQ Page:

Plated bullets occupy a position between cast bullets and jacketed bullets. They are soft lead, but have a hard outer shell on them. When loading plated bullets we have found best results using low- to mid-range jacketed data in the load manual. You must use data for a bullet that has the same weight and profile as the one you are loading. Do not exceed mid-range loads. Do not use magnum loads.

From X-Treme Bullets Bullet/Load Info page:

Load Info:
- Our Copper Plated Bullets can be run at mid-range jacketed velocities or higher end lead velocities. We do not recommend velocities over 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and only a light taper crimp.
Any velocities over 1200 FPS we recommend either our Heavy Plate Concave Base or Hollow Point products for superior accuracy. We do not recommend velocities over 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and only a light taper crimp.


You're Welcome.

If your handgun is a revolver you'll need to crimp or else your bullets will "walk" on you while firing (increase in COL).

This is HIGHLY dependent on the caliber and the Mass of the handgun. A stout 357 Magnum in a 4 inch 686 can generate enough recoil to cause bullet pull issues if a light crimp has been used. However, plated bullets are NOT intended to be used in a stout 357 Magnum, they are intended to be used in target grade ammunition loaded to low/mid range data. Load a 125 grain plated bullet in 38 special to 950 fps and the recoil in a 686 will be gentle enough that the bullets won't pull even of there is not any crimp at all.

Thanks for the advice folks. I am just getting into plated bullets
mostly because they were available in the diameter I need for my (new to me) 696.
This gun has smaller throats than all my other older 44's.
I do have a taper crimp die and will use it sparingly.
I have been loading the 44 Special for decades and am not going to exceed 1Kfps.

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Nemo

I have to completely disagree with the advice not to crimp revolver ammo. Even at 850 fps the bullets can and will probably pull so you do need a slight crimp. You can use a light roll crimp as long as you don't break through the plating. A taper crimp will also work but no crimp will not... I don't load many plated bullets but I did load a full box of .38 Special and 45 Auto rounds. (250 of each) I used a light roll crimp for the .38 Specials and my normal taper crimp on the 45 Auto Ammo.

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Freedom is never free!!
SWCA #3437

Since I'm not allowed to use cast lead at my range I go through quite a few plated bullets. You won't be disappointed!

Archangel, as someone with a background in loading lead bullets you have failed to take into account the higher level of friction produced by the plating. It's because of this higher friction that little to no crimp can be used with most loads.

BTW, that said I've actually tested my crimps with an inertial bullet puller and have looked at my pulled plated bullets and found that every brand I've used can actually take a pretty typical roll crimp without any hint of the plating cracking or failing. IMO a super light crimp is not necessary and I use the same crimp with my semi ammo on plated and jacketed bullets. As for my revolver ammo, it's all roll crimped with just enough crimp to "feel" it in the die on the shortest cases in the batch I'm loading. As a result some of the longer cases get a pretty good roll crimp and it's not a problem. BTW, I do not and never plan on trimming any of my revolver cases to length, IMO that is taking OCD just a bit too far. I would suggest anyone concerned about "over crimping" a plated bullet actually pull one and take a look at it under magnification.

I have mined bullet scrap from the dirt berm at an outdoor range. Specifically the area where my bullets were hitting as indicated by the 'fresh dirt'. At the end of a couple hours of mining and sifting, I had 4 half-full 5 gallon buckets of bullet scrap -- half-full so I could load them into my pickup truck.

When I melted the scrap down to separate lead core from copper jackets, I was surprised that 38 WC and 45 SWC would "bulge" from melting the lead core but were still intact. I had to use a small garden spade to damage the copper plating enough for the molten lead to 'run out'. The shovel work was very similar to mixing cement using vertical shovel strokes to agitate the bullets.

It was my plated bullets that were not separating. I found two different types of jackets -- heavy factory jacketed and thinner plated jackets that bulged but didn't rupture.

I agree with the 1,200 fps velocity limit because of leading problems, but I don't think "breaking the plating" with a roll crimp is an issue. The plated bullets I recovered, Rainier 38 WC and Berry 45 acp 200 gr SWC, were tough to separate lead core from plated jacket.

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S&WHF 366

I just started reloading and I find this thread very interesting, especially Engineer1911’s comment. I was loading 9 mm plated 115g. I pulled the bullets and found a ring indent around the bullets. It didn’t crack the plating. I found I needed to crimp to get the rounds to function. My question is, if I measure the crimp by the ring that is left behind, how much is too much? I do not see how you can crimp these without leaving a mark. The rounds tested in a FS M&P 9mm and work well. I have been second guessing myself a lot after reading this thread.

I don't know that it's necessarily a measurable attribute. Your statement that your crimp left a mark (which it will) and your rounds worked well is your answer.

That being said, if someone has a magic number, I'll take it!

I am new to the plated bullet also.......
Did 6 "light" loads of different powders for my 1st try at the 9mm.

Shoved the resized brass into the seating die as far as it would go..........logged info. (no belling)

Set the 115gr to factory ammo box oal of 1.12"........ logged info.

Finished product looks ok and fits back into factory ammo box.
Will have to do a "Plunk test", though.........should be ok?

With the maximum seating it should have enough case friction......
otherwise I may need to put a little "Squeeze" on the case.

Just loaded my first ones last night. 200 gr TC, .45 acp Ranier. I went with a good accurate "cast" lead load of 5.7 gr 231. I only loaded 25 for test, and will shoot from both a 1911, and a 25-2. If it gets above freezing today I may run out and see what they will do.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Well the temp got above 32 so I went to the range for a short shoot. The 200 gr Truncated Cone Ranier bullets shot like a "laser" from the 28-2 and the 1911, but the 1911 had problems with the flat nose of the TC bullet and didn't always feed well. So this load will be relegated to the 25-2 and the 1917 in moon clips. Feeding into the cylinder was excellent, the TC bullet nose slipped right into the chambers. I didn't set up to chrono the load, but it always made major with cast bullet so I would think it will with the plated. Much less expensive than Jacketed. When the weather warms up in the spring I'll chrono it, I'm guessing it's around 775-800 fps. It is much cleaner than shooting cast bullets.

I loaded this bullet exactly as I would have a cast bullet, and did not change my die settings from where they had been with the 230 gr. jacketed bullets I had last loaded. I taper crimp .003".

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I would suggest anyone concerned about "over crimping" a plated bullet actually pull one and take a look at it under magnification. (quote form Scooter123)
I like that ideal. Thanks

Here is what Rocky Mountain Reloading says on their site about their plated bullets.

"9mm 124 grain Plated round nose bullets. Please use jacketed data when loading them as lead cast data is too slow."

Elsewhere they say that the "never to exceed" speed is 1500 FPS.
I've used tens of thousands of their bullets and have not had a problem, in fact sometimes when I'm taping targets just in front of the backstop, I see spent bullets that look so good I've been tempted to pick them up, clean and re-use them. I haven't done it but I've never seen the plating coming off.

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Minimize the variables

My first load with Rainier 240 gr. FP plated 44 bullets went extremely well.
Using 6.5 gr. of Universal (Clays) in the 44 special 696, I got all 5 holes touching at 30 feet.
I used a light taper crimp.
I am now having trouble using iron sights at 50 feet so I practice a little closer.

From the Rainier site:

"We, at Rainier Ballistics, recommend using lead bullet load data when loading our bullets. There is no need for adjustment when using lead bullet load data. Our bullets are jacketed using an electroplating process and are softer than traditionally jacketed bullets; hence the recommendation to use lead bullet load data.

***If you only have access to traditionally jacketed load data, we recommend a starting powder charge directly between the listed minimum and maximum load, and you may use published load data found in reputable reloading manuals.

A slight roll or taper crimp may be used with our bullets;

Overcrimping plated bullets may result in decreased accuracy, and fragmentation of copper plating."

I did not notice any bullet pull in the 696, but it is actually fairly heavy for it's size.
Moving to the 396, I am going to use the X-Treme 200 gr. plated number.
They have cannelures!

Having it snow every other day is sure getting old and is cutting into my range time severely.

Edit:
If you go to the Rainier website, they have some pretty cool pictures of their operation including the
swaging from wire and plating lines.

Rainier Ballistics Facility

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Nemo

I didn't fail to take into account the plating. With revolver ammo you should crimp even FMJ bullets to prevent bullet pull so the supposed additional friction added by the plating means nothing in this case.

The manufacturers who sell plated bullets most times recommend using load data for lead bullets of low to mid-range load data for jacketed bullets. Rainier recommends a taper crimp right on their site in the FAQ page. Because the plating on Berry's bullets is thicker they said you can use a snug roll crimp to keep bullets in place.

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Freedom is never free!!
SWCA #3437

What is the big deal about "cutting the plating" on plated bullets with a case crimp?

Powder gases are pushing the bullet out of the barrel. Any plating crack or cut is going to be compressed; either from gas pressure at the rear (axial) or from the barrel rifling (radial). There are no 'forces' pulling on the bullet out of the barrel.

Both the lead core and the plated copper jacket are soft metals that easily deform compared to steel gun barrels or reloading dies. The plating is not going to crack like a dropped coffee cup. IF there is a 'cut' in the plating, it will be compressed closed from either powder gas pressure or the rifleing deforming the bullet.

If your gun barrel is exceptionally dirty, leaded, rough rifleing, badly fouled then either cast or plated bullets may not be accurate. Jacketed bullets might "clean" the barrel, but bore solvent and proper cleaning is what is really need.

Now regular reloading practices will resume, correct powder charge, belled case mouth, case crimp -- rolled or tapered .

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S&WHF 366

Another thought on the crimping issue. Many have brought up the bullet pull issue, but what about crimping for proper ignition?
I have always used a moderate roll crimp for my plated revolver bullets to insure that the bullet holds on for proper ignition.
Any thoughts?
All the best, fuzzy

Since plated bullets don't have a crimping cannelure, and the plating is thin and easy to disrupt with a roll crimp, you'll get better results with a light to moderate taper crimp. RCBS makes a 38 cal taper crimp die, and I'm sure others do too. If you plan to load a lot of plated, a TC die is a good investment. I really like the plated DEWC for a good accurate practice load.

Most of my 38's don't do well with +P 110 and 125gr jacket bullets any way..................... so I see no problem with the lower fps loads no matter what the barrel length is going to be used.
The lower fps will also help prevent the plated bullets from moving forward on recoil but do agree that a light crimp may be needed if the case friction is not enough for the load.

Nothing wrong with standard 38 special loads for target work.

My plated bullets from Xtreme all have a cannelure.


Sgt Lumpy

Redding also makes the taper crimp dies for 38 and 44.
I have started to use it with the smooth plated numbers and
I also use it for single shot rounds as it works the brass less.
I sometimes load bullets off the cannelure in the Encore 445.
I just touch them with the taper crimp.
Definitely a useful die.

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Nemo