Do you guys seperate your cases by brand or just load them up mixed?

I do, but I am OCD on stuff like that. Truthfully, I don't think it makes a difference.

Just mix em up. If I should run across some once fired, I would probably keep it separate.

Mixed is fine. If cases start out reasonably close to specification... I just have not seen a measurable difference.

If I'm loading a moderate plinking load I don't mind mixing, but if I'm loading for target/accuracy or max./+P load then I use only the same brand cases for that load.

I like to stick with large batches (500 to 1000) of the same brand and production lot, trim them all to minimums, chamfer the trimmed case mouths equally, resize them all at one sitting, then finish reloading that batch all at the same time. By starting out with everything as nearly identical as possible, and by doing all reloading processes on the same equipment with the same settings, I believe I'm getting better overall consistency (primer seating, bullet seating, crimping, etc).

For most handgun applications this is probably not critical. But I started off loading for competition, and consistency means a lot more when the difference between first and second place can be the width of the scoring lines.

Old habits are hard to break, I suppose.

I don't compete and do mix the cases. Since I use a single stage press, there's lots of opportunities to examine the cases. I also use a Wilson cartridge gage to ensure proper case sizing.

I keep my brass separated by how many times they are fired, I used them at the pistol range for target shooting no competition. I just thought since I load the same powder, the same weight, same bullet and OAL why I'm I separating cases!

For 50 yard and less handgun shooting, I've never found a difference. If you get into handgun varmint hunting, you will want every little bit of accuracy you can get (even if it only boost your confidence). Ivan

For 38 spl, 9mm and .380 . . . I just use 'em mixed. But, that's for the type of shooting I do which isn't "competition" like a lot of folks are in to. I'm pretty much just a "plinker", a "pop can killer' and once in a while a nasty little varmint on the farm.

Most of my brass is "range brass" so it's all different headstamps. On 38s, I have both brass and nickel . . . I prefer the nickel . . makes 'em look "prettier". Someday, if I get lots of time and am bored . . I may sort 'e out by headstamp but I really don't see the need.

I mostly shoot 38 spl. and I do have a box of 500 brand new Star Line 38 spl casings on the shelf. I have enough 38 casings to last a loooooong time so as long as the mixed head stamps shoot well . . no sorting for me and the box of 500 new ones will stay on the shelf for a "rainy day".

On my 9mm - I am having no problems with the head stamps being mixed - they all seem to shoot and cycle well in my SR9. On the .380 . . I have the brass but just haven't started loading any yet . . I'd expect them to run as well as the 9mm though.

I agree with this statement. I have been reloading and hand-loading for 40 years and shooting in competition for close to 50 years (including my youth for BSA, NRA Junior and PSU). I ALWAYS sort my brass by headstamp and use the same brand of primers, powder and bullets for competition. I prep all brass ONCE for pistol and it is forever good until it splits….usually after about 15 firings with pistol….less with nickel….less with Magnums, esp. if HOT. Why, ….simple….eliminate all or most of the the determinate error in an experiment and you can concentrate on why the loads do not group….usually the shooter. Once I establish a load, I seldom change, unless for good reason….ex. for my .32 wadcutter, bullseye was very accurate (1"@25yds) but smokey….VV310 was equally accurate with all other components ….but very clean….so I switched to VV310. However, I still use Bullseye in my .45 since nothing is as accurate…at least with my load.
It is easier NOT to have to reinvent the wheel…
Consistency…makes for repeatability and safety as well.

BTW…if you pick up range brass…only choose those that a shooter bought NEW.

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Terry
SWCA, SWHS, IWLA, NRA

I only concern myself with matching head stamp & number of firings for magnum cases and loads where the OAL is important to roll crimping. For practice loads with my lower pressure 9mm. & .45 auto pistols I have had good luck with mixed range brass. If I loaded a higher pressure auto load I would use no more that once fired matched head stamp brass.

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JOSHUA 1:9

I think the OAL of the case is much more important than using
different makes of brass in your loads.

Now if you have a "Match Grade" pistol and good eye sight along with steady hands and all the other stuff needed for top scores, I might see the "Same stuff" program..........

but most of us will have a slight difference in powder drops now and then, a powder shift in the case, a "Fuzzy" eye, a little shaking in the hands or maybe just a small "Jerk" of the trigger by mistake............
so what's the big deal about a "Flyer" every now and then.

When I passed 50, I did not worry about getting all my shots into one little bitty hole................and enjoyed shooting even more............. but more power to those that want nothing but a "10".

Most of by cases start out new and are loaded fifty at a time and go into the MTM ammo boxes and will spend their useful life together with the data card for each loading noting how many times they have been fired. When they begin to show signs of wear and tear they then go into a common box of cases for use as range ammo.

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Stay safe people!

It depends.

I'm old enough that I no longer have the ability to focus on handgun sights so I sort of point shooting using the shape of the handgun as an aid to aiming. This means that I won't be shooting 1.5 inch groups at 50 feet but when I've been practicing I shoot well enough for a head shot at 50 feet. So, if I'm shooting with iron sights, any old bullet and case will do, because I just can't shoot well enough with iron sights to see any difference.

However, after a while that gets to be a bit frustrating so I'll pull out one of my revolvers that have a reflex sight mounted. Since I can still see quite well at distances this means that using an optical sight allows me to shoot a lot more like I could when I was a youngster. Then accuracy becomes something that is observable, so I'll use all the accuracy tricks such as sorting by both headstamp and case weight. I'll also trim the brass to the same length to insure a consistent crimp. On one of my better days this allows me to get my groups down to about 2 inches at 105 feet (35 yards). BTW, 125 gr. FP-XTP and 7.1 gr. AA #5.

I do the exact same procedure with new brass. The trimming etc are a one time deal. Once done, its done. Knowing that I am starting out with the most uniform brass and rounds I can make is peace of mind. Many will disagree but that's the way I've always done it.

The only time I sort cases is when I'm really bored and want to tinker with guns stuff of any means. That's not very often I get that bored, so essentially no--I don't sort.

All my 44 cal brass stays in the same boxes of 50 for their lifetime.
But I only do wheel-guns and single shots.
Different brands have different internal volumes and sometimes take slightly different recipes.
For instance Midway and Starline take different amounts of 2400
for the same accuracy and speed in a 44mag (260 WFNGC).

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Nemo