I have 3 550s set up full time for 45acp/9mm/.38sp

9mm is the easiest to load with virtually no issues.

45acp is a close second

and .38 for me is a headache (primer system)

I can take my primer system apart…clean it and after about 40 or so pulls, it begins to act erratic (sticking and then slingshot releasing of the primer bar and then primer goes flying or flips sideways or upside down in the seater)

I am wondering (I use strictly Federal Primers for .38) if target loads and Federal Primers means a more that dirty primer pocket which after so many pulls, it affects my Dillon primer bar with burnt primer debris.

I wonder if setting up a single stage with just a de-primer and brush the pockets are necessary for best performance….but why not the same issues with 9mm?

I was having some primer issues with my 45 setup but I noticed on the primer stroke, my primer operating rod was pulling out of the top of the primer tower causing a bind and erratic primer bar operation. I was actually causing that because I was twisting the operation on the end stroke. Kind of like trigger press….straight back. my dillon .45 primer stroke needed to be straight forward (no twist). go figure.

back to my .38 issue….

anyone have the same issues with erratic primer slide operation?

I have polished the primer bar and constantly tooth brush the track to keep debris down to a minimum but it won't let me load many without the issue returning. it is my oldest machine (from the 80s) but its well taken care of.

I am ready to load for the season but dreading the issues. I will probably call Dillon tomorrow but wondering if anyone had the same issues and determined the fix.

Also, anyone know the best site (price wise) to order a new set of Dillon Pistol Dies? I want to upgrade my .38 dies so I can just pop out the seater and crimper to clean without moving my settings. I also like the spring loaded de-primer (if I can fix my primer bar issue)

thanks in advance

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if you're gonna be a bear...

I don't load .38's but think an email to Dillon about the problem (or posting it on the Dillon forum) would be the quickest way to find a solution. As far as price, use Google (or another search engine) and search for "Dillon reloading dies for sale"

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Minimize the variables

Primer slide has to be kept clean, especially on the underside. Also clean the surface under the slide by removing the slide. I lube the surface that the slide rides on with powdered graphite. Can't comment on dirty primer residue from the spent cases but, never had a problem with that on my 550 reloading 38 special.

swap things around with your 9 or 45 dillon to isolate the trouble.

I load 357 magnum on the 550B and never have any trouble

(If I shot it more, I'd get a 357 conversion for my 650 )

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NRA Life
USPSA/IPSC

Have had two 550s (one purchased soon after they were introduced) and both were bothersome on the priming feature, just as described. So much so that one (I don't know which) is now gone. And the other is used in two stages, with priming (and usually powder) done separately. The Square Deal Bs have been fine, though.

I have a lighting system on my Dillon setup for .38 so I can see the powder charge….(using fast burning small target charges)

I may move the .38 to another press for a test if still an issue after speaking with Dillon.

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if you're gonna be a bear...

There are several potential issues here at play: 1) The black plate that the primer slide rides on is teflon coated, and after a while, the teflon coating wears away. This increases the friction causing sticking. 2) The **** from spent primers is abrasive and collects on the primer slide plate and transfers to the primer bar. Take the primer assy apart and thoroughly clean all parts. DO NOT LUBE - it is intended to run dry, and oil or grease only attracts and holds the primer residue. 3) While the primer assy. is apart, check the inside where the primer bar ride for bulges from the mounting screws. Using a flat fine-cut file, you can smooth any bulges down to flush with the primer bar recess. This will also improve the overall function.

Finally, keep the entire priming assembly clean. I wipe the slider and primer bar down with a microfiber cloth every time I stop for a break and after every primer tube refill. It is enlightening how much **** collects on the priming assembly during use.

John

If the anodizing on the primer bar gets worn off due to use or age, the primer bar will sometimes seize, jam and stick. Replacing the primer bar with a new one will usually cure the problem. I have been through several primer bars on my Dillion 550B in the past 20 some years. Dillion has always replaced them for free. Also need to keep things clean and lubricated with a dry lube of some kind.

I load all three of those cartridges on my 550B, plus .44 special. It works like a champ, but you must keep it very clean. One trick I learned was to keep a can of compressed air, like you might use for a computer keyboard, around, and frequently spray all the moving parts. When I change calibers, everything gets cleaned really well too.

What Foxtrot40 said. His experience is the same as mine. I have two 550b's set up (one for small and one for large primers) and the primer feed is the only problem I ever have. I also polished the frame where the primer arm slides on it. Keep it clean and a little graphite and they're good to go. I also have two SDB's and haven't used them in 5 to 10 years. The 550's suit all my needs. Dean

I load a lot of .38 Special and .357 Magnum on a 550 and while I get the occasional stickiness I can't say it's a real problem for me. A pro shooter once told me that he sprays some Hornady One Shot case lube on the primer bar and it keeps things running smoothly. I started doing the same and it seems to work for me.

Dave Sinko

The place to buy anything Dillon is through brianenos.com. I have a taper crimp die for 357 Sig coming this week.

He also hosts a terrific web site for us Smurfs!

My 450 priming system becomes problematic if I don't clean and shoot some dry lube (graphite) on the slide bar every once in a while.

Glad to hear that I'm not the only one having priming problems with the 550B. My primer bar sticks and won't come all the way out on the up stroke unless I tap it. It seems to want to cock sideways in the slot. Also have trouble getting primer system to pick up the primer out of the tube and to keep the primer post to stay centered in the primer bar. It wants to cock to the right when the set screw is tightened. Big pain to have to remember to tap the primer bar on each stroke as well as check for powder, inset case, insert bullet, etc. Never have had a problem with powder, just primers. On mine, the primer problems happen with any and all calibers.

I have not had the problem you describe. The problem has to be in one of two places. 1. The bar sliding across the frame. The cleanness issue is most important. I came from a 450 upgrading to 550B and do not use a Teflon plate below my sliding primer bar. Since you have one 550B set up for Large primers, you should have a small primer bar in your parts pile. I would scrub EVERYTHING in the primer system with Hoppes #9 or Shooters Choice powder solvent and a BRASS tooth brush then rinse with a spray cleaner (I use carburetor cleaner) and allow to dry. Inspect with magnification for burrs and warpage in all directions. 2 the other place there could be a hang up would be where the primer feed tube and the primer cup interface. In these days of "Ammomania", quality control isn't what it used to be. The tips of the primer anvil sometimes stick up above the rim of the primer body. This could be catching on the bottom edge of the primer feed tube. While you have the primer system torn down, clean and dry this part of the system also then using 800 grit or above sand paper, polish, smooth and round over the lower edges of the primer feed tube. Make sure that there is ample room for the primer in the cup of the primer bar to pass under the feed tube on its way to the priming location. If there isn't clearance call Dillion Costumer Service for a replacement feed tube holder base (or whatever they call it). The number off the cover of The Blue Press is 1-800-223-4570. Being a few 1/1000th short could make big difference. Good luck! Ivan

I did not know the plate under the primer tower is Teflon coated. Mine is shiny metal. This system was bought in the early 80s.

Last year....I took all three primer bars off and I stoned and polished them. I also did not they were anodized.

I called Dillon today and was the 25th caller. After a few minutes I was now the 24th caller. I hung up. Thanks to all for the advice. I still want to call Dillon.

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if you're gonna be a bear...

The problem is not lack of cleanliness . The problem is the primer assembly is not perfectly lined up . Just a few thousands out and it will do exactly as yours is doing . I know this because I've owned one since they first came out (1985 ? ) and had this problem on and off until I figured it out and now many thousands of rounds later it purrs like a kitten .
Loosen the two allen bolts on the assembly and re-align it . It has to slide perfectly straight back to pick up the primer. Just a few thousands out of square and it will pick up a primer and then the problems you described start to happen on the way sliding in .
To align it you have to do more than just tightening the bolts while the primer arm and primer cup are in the shell plate platform . You have to really eyeball it while the 2 allen bolts are just lightly snugged up .
If it isn't perfectly square when it's all tightened up you will have your type of problems .Again I'm talking about just a few thousands out and it will be problematic.
HTH,
Nick

Measure the distance of the top of where the primer is to the bottom of the primer slide assembly and make sure it is 1.215” to 1.220 . I found that I was getting erratic primer placement. This can be adjusted by the allen set screw. I would also follow the above instructions about cleaning it and making sure it is square.

I will try and eye ball it to square. thanks

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if you're gonna be a bear...

Underneath the shell plate there are a couple of screws that hold the shell platform on. If one or both of those is loose, it can throw things out of whack.

Hmm, I never noticed that there were numbers on the cover!

The February 2014 issue was sitting next to the computer for some reason. On the back cover,lower right corner. The girls on the cover aren't much of a distraction (for me), The Wife put most of them to shame when she was that young. So to speak, I still have the Cadillac, it is just a 1955 Model and I won't be trading it in! Ivan

Personally I would call Dillon while you are at your press. They will guide you through steps to remedy the problem and won't leave you hanging. I have yet to have any problem in over 30 years that they could not easily solve. Sounds to me that something is not aligned properly and just needs adjusting. You also might have a broken or worn part in the Primer system. I know many many fellas with a 550 and they usually work quite nicely.

I had primer problems with my 650 until I switched to using Winchester primers. It seems that they may be just a tiny bit smaller than the others. I know it sounds silly but it worked.

Our 550B loves all the CCI primers, large & small, pistol & rifle.. but doesn't like Winchesters... of any size... several primers out of each 100 tray don't want to fit in either the cup, or primer pockets of our brass.

we load 9mmpara ,.38spec, .357 mag, .44 spec, .44mag, .45ACP, .45Colt, .233Rem & .308 Rem on ours.......

Try loosening the two bolts on the bottom of the primer assembly a bit.
I rarely have priming problems with my 550. When I do, I am always able to solve them.

tried several times to call Dillon only to be the 20th caller or worse and was tied up at work to keep at it.

I may have found the problem which could be attributed to a couple of things.

my primer bar had rough and raised areas underneath the primer plunger (from years of debris being impacted when the primer was pressed in)

the primer bar plate underneath has two grooves worn near the back side from years of use.

I don't have spares….so I dressed and smooth both areas…..lubricated with Microlon, reinstalled with eyeball alignment and it felt very smooth. No stuttering, no jaggedness and never any hangups.

a cold front is coming tonight with temps going to get in the 40s and 50s the next couple of nights and this is my perfect reloading weather….so planning to try it out with some reloads. (fingers crossed)

Yes….both the primer bar and the plate underneath need to be replaced and will try the phone calls or email this week.

thanks to all

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if you're gonna be a bear...

Both of mine look a lot worse than those in the pics and still my press and primer bar just keep running smooth .
As I said earlier it's all in the alignment .
Eyeball it well when tightening the 2 bolts .

I just had to do this to my Dillon 550B. Remove all the dies from your tool header/tool holder

#1. The powder measure adapter bushing goes in station #1.

#2. Alignment pin goes into powder measure adapter bushing so the pin at the end drops freely into the primer hole in the ram top plate.

If the pin doesn't drop into the primer hole, the ram top plate needs to be adjusted.

If none of this makes any sense to you, please call Dillon Tech Support and ask about the press alignment tool. You will receive detailed instructions and the alignment tool for free, I believe.

I got my alignment tools for free because I bought a primer feed upgrade (first time) and auto eject upgrade (second time).

If the "Press Alignment Process" is completed carefully, you are good to go for 50K + rounds with only needing to clean the primer slide bar.

My old 450 has been cranking out small primer ammo for 15 years without any problems. My newer 550 (bought used) just had its first alignment completed and now works flawlessly.

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S&WHF 366

I in no way am being derogatory to any response, but there are so many alignment points and E1911….I did not know such a part existed.

#0 the actuator rod was replaced maybe a year or two ago due to it not pushing the primer bar back far enough. Dillon said it was best to replace it if I had bent it away from the factory setting.

#1 my wheel does not track straight and the wheel will actually make contact with the press and cause the primer bar to hang up. you can see a corner of the press right next to the wheel where it makes contact.

#2 the top portion of my actuating rod will pull outward with each time I drive in the primer

#3 the main plate does have some adjustability when installing (wonder if this part is off)

#3a that portion of what I call a ramp also had some adjustability from side to side when installing on the main plate. this part does control the alignment of the actuator rod.

#4 my roller wheel will spin freely when not in any bind however when the parts are moving, my wheel does not rotate

#5 is a sideways primer which happened on the main shaft downward stroke and unknown to me at the time, the roller wheel caught the edge of the frame due to its non straight track and when it slipped..caused the primer to turn and I was already in the mind process of seating the primer. (in other words, I heard it but could not stop as I had already started- action beats reaction)

#6 is the sideways adjustment of the primer tower….I thought I had this lined up but there are way to many other parts that in my opinion would need to line up to work together.

#7 I noticed on primer seating, the main shaft rotates slightly which drives the top of the actuator rod slightly outward of the primer tower.

so many variables…….I need the alignment kit.

I did load approximately 200 rounds of 158 LSWC last night with the fewest issues in along time. I did eat about 4 primers last night due to turning sideways and realizing what was causing it.

tomorrow…I am fully prepared to call Dillon and hang out on hold.

thanks again for all the tips

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if you're gonna be a bear...