when loading sharp cornered wadcutters such as swaged Delta Precision or Zero

do you leave a little lead out and taper crimp?

or

do you set the bullet flush and roll crimp the end?

This is in regards to best speed loading into a cylinder when time is a factor?

I have a Lee factory crimp die for roll crimps as the Dillon die is a taper crimp. Most factory loads are flush with a roll crimp. Just not sure if this Lee is the best roll crimp die or am I wasting my time and just set the WC out a little and SLAM the taper crimp HOME!

thanks in advance

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if you're gonna be a bear...

I just seat them so that only about a fingernail's thickness shows above the case. Then just enough crimp to remove the flare. No slamming required.

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USAF, 69-92
Vietnam, 72-73

If they are target loads they don't need a crimp, or a taper crimp at most. I try to flare/crimp the brass as little as possible to prevent work hardening of the case mouth. These cases would last for a VERY long time.

RW.....do you seat the bullet flush or leave a little out?

Moxie....no slamming here either....just seemed fitting.....now it does not.

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if you're gonna be a bear...

I always flush seat and light roll crimp my HBWCs

But then I do use them in the Model 52 as well as the revolvers.

I seat my HBWCs flush then lightly taper crimp them in the next station on my Hornady Pro-jector. Seems to work good in my 52-1.

Different seating for a M 52 semi auto than with a revolver. Looking at the COL for a revolver data, the bullet is left out a little and then crimp.

The M52 is flush with a crimp over the top. I believe the OP is loading for a revolver with speed loaders.

The flush loaded can be used revolvers and semi auto, not the other way around.

Lyman has the 148 gr Saeco loaded at a COL of 1.265 with a case trim length of 1.149 which would give the about protruding.

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Still Running Against the Wind

I leave the fingernail width sticking out of the mouth. I have no reason to seat them deeper in a revolver. If I had one of the semi auto model 52s, they require flush seating.

I shoot 150 round PPC matches using Comp III speed loaders.

All stages are timed with one stage being very fast with one reload.

All my revolvers have a slight chamfer on the cylinder to improve loading.

I have never had an issue with DEWC as they are not sharp cornered and I can load them out a bit.

I have well over 2000 sharp cornered swaged 148 HBWC that I would like to use and when I get close to the end, going to order Remmy Gummies again.

Several years ago, I was experiencing hangups on my revolver reloads where one round was not letting the speed loader to set square costing me time trying to fix during timed stages. I determined is was the sharp corner of the loaded round and my taper crimp.

I switched to roll crimping such a Remington does on there match wadcutters. This improved my revolver reload however roll crimping is a pain in the hiney when brass OAL differences slightly. I started sorting brass which helped with roll crimp uniformity.

Remington 148s have a raised area away from the corner which IMO makes for a better slug to be roll crimped. The only thing I dislike about Remington is they are messy/gummy.



My roll crimp die (Lee Factory Crimp) seems cheap compared to my Dillon dies. Not sure if there is a preferred roll crimp die.

Just trying to determine what is best for my application and make sure someone is doing something that would work for my application.

if you shoot PPC and load 148s, tell me your slug preference, crimp style and either OAL or slug flush or not.

thanks for all the replies…keep em coming

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if you're gonna be a bear...

Well I'm not a PPC shooter , Bullseye yes I am . So you can take this FWIW . Trim your cases to 1.145 & roll crimp with flush seated slugs . I taper crimp to .369 , but we've got plenty of time for reloading . Forget the FCD , all it does is swage down a HBWC . Plenty of real roll crimp dies on the market . I vastly prefer the nasty Rem HBWC's but they're fatter than the rest . Zero makes a good HBWC that runs .357 whereas the Rem's usually run .359 - .360 . I will not buy PD . I bought 10K of them that were undersized & would not group @ 50yds . I'm still using them up for 25yd timed / rapid & plinking only . I know trimming case is a PITA , but it does allow one to get a consistent roll crimp . BTW the Zero shoots quite well in both my 52 & Colt OMM ( both have .356 bores ) . Hope this helps .

boatbum, thanks for the info.

Can you tell me your preference on roll crimp dies? My time is valuable these days, and the discussions we have had in the past, I trust your knowledge and experience on reloads.

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if you're gonna be a bear...

When I load WC I seat case mouth flush and taper crimp so the loads can go in either the revolver or the Model 52-1. For PPC revolver shooting I load a 148 gr. SWC (Rim Rock Bullets) with 2.8 gr. BE and a roll crimp. Works great with the speed loaders.

I've always been partial to Lyman dies for lead , but Redding , RCBS & others make perfectly good dies . If you load on a Dillon ( except SDB) you can use their dies too . Old Lyman set I got doesn't have a separate crimp die it's built in the seater , just back the stem out & screw 'er down until you get degree of crimp you want . Like I said I taper crimp target loads & use a Redding for that . Lyman gets used for serious & 357 loads .